hgeranium

"1986-1990 Jeep Comanche MJ 18 & 23.5-Gal. "Side Mounted" fuel tank sending unit with the 4.0L I6 fuel injected engine. This unit includes the in-tank fuel pump. Includes new lock ring, gasket and an in-tank fuel filter. " I'm only seeing options for an 18 and a 23.5gal size, but mine is a 16 gallon. Is this just an error of the listing or do they not have the one that I need? And would you recommend just getting a bosch pump out the gate and order the assembly that does NOT come with a pump? EDIT: Doing some research and apparently the short beds ALL came with an 18 gallon tank? It sure doesn't seem like it. I usually get about 10 miles a gallon and get about 160 miles of range. It starts dying on me if I let it get to about 145-150 miles. Unless the tank was replaced with a smaller one but I doubt it. (per Pete: )

The truck is in San Antonio, but I'm in College Station 'til Thanksgiving sadly. I greatly appreciate the offer though

I’m going to preemptively order some parts for when I’m back with the jeep on thanksgiving. Even if it isn’t the issue I want to replace the fuel pump and assembly so I know it’s good. That’s one of the few things that I haven’t replaced on the truck. I wouldn’t be surprised if my tank was absolutely varnished to hell with how horribly my fuel filter failed a few months ago. Any recommendations on a quality assembly? I’m seeing a Delphi that looks decent. So far, I’m going to order a new fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, valve cover gasket, and PCV grommet while I’m there.

Any clue about what pressure I should be looking for? I’m thinking I drive it around somehow with the gauge hooked up, then look for a FP drop when it bogs down like that. Unless I should see a pretty big discrepancy on the gauge even at warm idle.

The latter. A very fine mist. This was on the side of the highway and I was desperate for clues.

The oil spray had gotten significantly worse on that road trip. It was dripping tons of oil which it never did before. All my stuff on the distributor side got a nice little film of oil on it. Ignition wires, dizzy cap, coolant bottle, vacuum canister etc. The firewall behind the VC is completely black now too. Could the VC have just catastrophically failed suddenly like that?

Done ~10,000 miles ago about 10/2022. In hindsight I definitely didn’t do the correct tightening order. VC is bone dry up front but still leaked from the back. Yall think the oil could be a red herring for the FP issue? Also how could I go about testing the pump (without taking the bed off/dropping tank and other than getting that FP ground). Fuel pressure looked good from the schrader valve if that matters.

Most of them. Not the fuel pump ground yet. And that still wouldn’t explain the oil. My first thought is maybe the coil is going bad and getting hot. I had to leave the Comanche and borrow a car to get back home last night, so I won’t get to look at it until Thanksgiving sadly. i’m trying to think what would cause all that oil spray in the back of the motor and it could really only be a few things, none of which really relate to the drivability issues. The oil happened before the driving problems, so maybe the oil itself is fouling something up? I don’t know if oil getting all over the CPS would do something or not. It’s just hard me not being there. Best I can do is be prepared to know what to look for.

It’s a problem that’s somehow connected to heat. After letting it sit for a few hours it drives great until it’s warmed up for a while.

randomly noticed a huge oil leak from the back of the engine. Back at the valve cover had oil, most things on the distributor side had oil (none in distributor), head/block/trans COVERED in oil. This was in the middle of a 180 mile road trip. I make it after adding oil and then it does this not long after getting into town. The video is me flooring it going about 5 miles an hour. In park it will rev all day long and it idles OK. In gear it won’t rev past 1500-1800 and bog down/slowly start to die even when flooring it. Actually got stuck on the side of the highway because I literally could not accelerate. It would just want to die and I had to put it in reverse back into the shoulder. Waiting a long time randomly fixed the acceleration problem. That sound feels like a spark issue but that plus the oil could be what? It’s not the distributor since inside the cap was bone dry. This problem came out of nowhere. I suppose the oil and acceleration problem could be independent but I feel like it’s an unlikely coincidence.

I run 30x9.5 tires on stock height and have zero rubbing FWIW. That size shouldn't have any issues. I have General Grabber ATX's. I think for a set of 5, i paid $1000, with a $100 rebate on top of that which I know is out of your budget but these tires have been fantastic.

Yeah I think I’m just going to get a separate XJ. I would want to manual swap on top of that and at that point I’d have the Comanche of Theseus

I know this topic has probably been beat to death but I’d like to hear a current response from yall. realistically, how difficult and how worth it is it to do a 4x4 swap? I know basically everything can be achieved through junkyard parts but I feel like I would fall into a rabbit hole of “while I’m here might as well (insert upgrade here)”. From my understanding the major parts you would need are a new front axle, transfer case, driveshaft stuff(?), and (might as well) upgraded rear axle (D44, disk brakes etc.) Is doing all this work even worth considering if I am able to find a readymade 4x4 Cherokee? I really want a vehicle for wheeling, but with how rare Comanches have gotten it would be hard for me to take it out on the trail.

Clean!

I didn’t know anyone actually listened to these! Glad you enjoyed it

I’ve got many pounds of deer meat in my freezer. I defrosted some shoulder meat that I processed into chunks and I’m going to make a stew with them tonight. I will keep this thread posted.

The ridiculous part is that there’s somebody out there that would pay that much money for it

The fan goes straight to the battery. I haven't actually looked but I'm pretty sure I've seen the CTS on the radiator but the wires are just cut lol. I know that without the fan at all it would begin to go over that halfway mark but nothing catastrophic (until my coolant bottle busted). It's 2WD so no wheeling. Another bet is that the CTS just went bad in the radiator and instead of replacing it, the PO just hooked the fan up to the battery. Thanks for the manual! I'll take a look.

Thank you! I'll spend all the extra money I can to make sure I never have to do this job again lol

I haven't had any issues with my throttle sticking lately after doing all sorts of fixes, but that has allowed me to notice a pattern. On cold starts, the truck will start up (a lot of times in very few cranks) smoothly with a quiet and reserved rev up and back down (~1500RPM). I get this turning the truck on before and after work. When it's warm and I am constantly turning it off and on (running errands), The revs are significantly higher and the startup feels more 'jolty' rather than smooth, and always takes way more cranks to start than when cold (revs closer to 2000-2200). I am going to assume that the new IACV is indeed good and not crap out of the box. Yes, my manifold bolts are tightened. All vac lines are good. I am no longer (as of right now) having an idle issue, it's just with startup. I know my truck and I know it's not normal. It hasn't always started like this, cold or warm. I'm thinking that the heat of the engine is exacerbating an issue regarding the intake/exhaust manifold. Maybe the heat is expanding a small intrusion in the manifold gasket that allows for a small vacuum leak on startup, that is absent on cold starts as the cold gasket compresses and seals the gap. If I'm having a vacuum-related issue that is contingent on engine temperature, I feel like it has to be the manifold gasket, right? At this point, I've suspected it enough that I might as well do it just to cross that off the list. I mostly wanted words of affirmation that I could be on the right track because if I'm about to do this job I want to be confident that it's going to fix stuff lol.

Title may be confusing, but I didn't know how to word it otherwise. The PO for whatever reason has the aux fan set to key on power. It's constantly running so long as the key is turned. It's just wired straight to the battery with a relay (that also has 2 other mysterious wires going into the wiring harness). I know it's supposed to kick on when the engine hits a certain temp. How can I re-activate this function? I wouldn't be surprised if the fan always being on is putting unnecessary strain on the alternator, considering one went bad only 6000 miles after replacing it earlier this year. A few months ago, the bearing in the fan that's been in the jeep since I bought it started going out, so I replaced it with a TYC unit. A few days ago, it quit working. Luckily it's colder outside so I can run without the e-fan to figure it out but could it really just be the crap quality unit or something funky with the way it's hooked up to power? I think the original unit was an OEM Mopar unit which would definitely explain its longevity over the TYC. When waiting for the TYC to come in (around July-August), I was driving it only on the mechanical fan, and the truck was consistently getting way hotter than usual. I'm pretty sure this extra heat/pressure is what did my old coolant bottle in. Sounds like a new fan clutch couldn't hurt either. I've done the paper test and it looked fine, there also isn't a TON of free-spinning of the fan when it's off but there is a little bit. edit: Not sure if it's relevant at all, but the previous fan was a 97+ unit, which is what I replaced it with. TYC 620560

Looks great!