hgeranium

20 year bump incoming

Great pics! And happy 20 years to this specific reply :p

Yeah I’ve seen the all black caps floating around on eBay too. Definitely let me know the verdict whenever you have time. Thanks!

Wow these are expensive! I’m seeing between $20-30 PER CAP, all ranging wildly in condition. If anyone has some spares and is willing to part with them for cheaper, send me a PM. I at least need 3, but a full set matching in wear would be even better. I’ve read about custom/3D printed caps being made in the past, so if someone has that going on I am interested.

That’s great! Will help a lot when browsing eBay. Thank you very much.

Any leads on this style center cap? All I’ve been able to find on eBay are the all black but none with the black with white Jeep lettering.

It doesn’t move at all. I can keep it turning in circles without holding the wheel. Stock control arms, stock everything. The fact that it occurred after the outer end makes me think that it has to be related to that tie rod end.

The former. The wheel stays in place after turning and I have to manually spin it back.

Ah, so the line goes much further into the dash than just a few inches into the firewall that I originally thought?

I wish I had the answer. The shop I got it done at didn’t tell me nor noted it on the invoice. I could try to ask but am not sure if they kept a record. It was a reputable local shop, not Firestone or any big chains FWIW.

I noticed that my wheel no longer returns to center after replacing the left outer tie rod. Stayed the same after the inner tie rods, drag link, and track bar were subsequently replaced (on different days- didn’t have time to do it all at once) and with the alignment done. The truck is aligned and drives great but the fact that it occurred after replacing the left outer end and hasn’t resolved after all linkage was replaced and aligned is a bit concerning. I understand this is likely a caster issue but not much other than that.

So you would just put a slightly larger hose on the broken side and attach the canister lines to that “sleeve”? Thinking about it, I feel like worst case scenario I can get out as much old line as I can from the hole going to the dash and stick a fresh line in there. I figure I can clear enough room by hand to get adequate vacuum for the HVAC.

The two vacuum lines that go from the vacuum canister to the firewall for the heat/ac controls are so old and crumbly. The way that they're attached is not very secure and they frequently come off/break more when tinkering in that side of the engine bay. In regards to replacing them, are they supposed to just pull out of those holes going into the firewall side? I've tried removing them but that just leads to breaking the hose off at the spot that I'm pulling them from. I don't want to get it so short that I can no longer get the old hoses off or reattach them to the canister side so I'm curious about any tips on removing them. The heater side line is especially sensitive; it has no flex and crumbles into dust when I try to remove it. I think the heater side is a different material (plastic?) line, so I'm also wondering if I need to put another plastic line or I can just replace it with rubber.

Cool! PM me whenever you decide to come up. It would be nice to meet another CC member

I’ve cleaned the old IAC to no avail a few times in the past. I was using berrymans. I know not to mess with the pintle but it’s OK to pull that sleeve down and spray in there, correct? More so asking for forgiveness rather than permission because that’s what I did lol

I have yet another idle issue, maybe the same cause as my other idle problems, but with new symptoms. I’ll try to keep it concise So, this has happened three times in the last week. It starts off that the trucks idle sound changes as I slow down at a light, the idle is pretty rough and much lower than it should be (between 500-600, while park/neutral idle is ~750). The first time the idle crept so low it just died. Turned the truck on and it drove fine on the way home. The 2nd and 3rd time, I noticed the idle was off while at a light, and as soon as I took my foot off the brake, it died. Started right back up both times, idle fixed. After the 2nd time I switched back to my old IACV yesterday since I replaced it a few weeks ago, but the 3rd occurrence just happened 10 minutes ago, so that didn’t fix it. I have an inkling that it’s an IACV and my old one+new one are both bad, because my idle in park and neutral are fine. When I knew the truck was going to die, I could put it in neutral and the idle returned to normal, then back to drive and it went back down. Am I missing something else or should I get another IACV? All vacuum lines are good, cleaned TB and new TB gasket, manifold bolts tightened (still need to replace gasket), TPS set correctly. I feel like it has to be the IACV since it’s an idle issue only seen in a driving gear that fixes upon startup, so it may be sticking?

Thank yall so much! I feel like that should’ve been the first thing I checked lol. The fix seems simple enough.

I’m pretty sure this is a common thing but was just wondering if there were any possible fixes. With a multimeter, I’m getting 14.3 V at idle with no accessories and with AC and lights on, it’s at 14.1. While the gauge reads ~13.8v and ~12v respectively. It’s just annoying never being able to trust it, especially if my alternator were to start going out, which has happened before.

Thank you for looking out, guys! I'm sure I'll be back on here in a year or so in the member project forum for it. I don't mind putting some work into it if it means I can show her the ins and outs.

That's my only complaint with my 88. Almost every part needs to be ordered in from somewhere. I have to be much more preventative with keeping spare parts than I'd like. Good to know about the HO era, I figure that'll be best of both worlds between the Renix and 97+. Thank you.

In about a year or so, my fiancée and I will be purchasing and moving into our first house. She doesn't have a car anymore (ran her car out of oil and seized the motor without my knowledge :p), so when we get all settled in we're going to start looking for another car. She would be very happy with an XJ, especially to compliment my MJ. I wanted to get y'alls thoughts on what era XJ would be best to look for? I am most familiar with Renix 4.0s of course, but I want something that would be easy for her to learn, work on, and diagnose, even if it means I need to learn about a different era. So, is there an XJ (pre-renix, renix, HO, facelift, etc.) that are considered the most reliable or simple for a beginner? She knows very little but is willing to learn. I am leaning more towards a 97+ just for the creature comforts in the interior and part availability, but I'm not sure about if there's any electrical gremlins that would be a PITA, and issues with that era 4.0 in general.

Great MJ and an even greater owner! Your input is always very helpful for my silly questions. Congrats on MJOTM!

I must’ve gotten unlucky with my parts. That new black cap instantly started leaking from all around when it got pressurized.. Reusing the brown one made it airtight again.

Looking forward to it. Looks great

I wish I had an REM. My heart says yes but my wallet says no Maybe if somebody on here has a used unit