hgeranium

What are yalls opinions on dropping the ~$118 to get a Mopar IACV? (83503643). I can get a standard ignition one for just under $30 on Amazon (which is what I’ve done), or I can get it from O’Reilly for $80 with lifetime warranty. I’m about to be on my fourth IACV: original from PO, 2 that I have replaced myself, and 1 that comes in tomorrow. The warranty would be nice but I hate the idea of still having to constantly troubleshoot idle issues and frequently replacing the part if it’s bad out of the box or goes out after a few weeks like it’s been. If I’m paying $80, I feel like I’d rather just pay an extra 30 to know that it’s a genuine Mopar and not need the warranty because I know it’ll be quality. For a crucial part like the IACV or the CPS, I feel like it’s totally worth it for peace of mind alone. But what’s y’all‘s mileage with it? I know some people get lucky with the aftermarket brands but I clearly have not been. It’s become a red herring. You install a new part assuming that it works, and when the problem persists you logically move to the next likely source, not really knowing that the new part either never worked, or only worked for a short time. The intermittentness and difficulty of testing the IACV specifically just exacerbates this problem.

Did you test the voltage and align the TPS when installing?

In regards to belt tension, get the Gates Krikit II tension gauge. I found that, when eyeballing my belt tension without it to what I 'thought' was tight, was actually about 80ft/lbs when a broken-in belt needs to be at 150ft/lbs! This is the only tool you'll have to buy ever for this purpose and it's super easy to use. Other than that, my bet would be on one of the pulleys being off. The vehicle will drive fine with an under/overtorqued belt but can cause things like the alternator to not produce enough voltage (undertorqued) or prematurely wear out pulleys/bearings/pumps/alternators (overtorqued). A single $35 investment is worth it for the peace of mind. Even with my belt being almost half of the correct tension, there was ZERO audible whining, clicking, etc. It may be anecdotal evidence, but I think a sound like that is more likely to come from a pulley than the belt. If the belt is old, then you might as well replace it, but I highly recommend getting the right tool to tension it. With a brand new belt, you'll want to tension it to ~180ft/lbs as it'll stretch out and will loosen up to the 150ft/lbs that you want. You should check it after a week or two of regular driving. I think the most logical course of action is trying a new pulley wheel since it seems like an easy fix. If it's not too much work, it would definitely help to try to get it started without the PS pump just to isolate whether or not it's a problem.

I may be completely off base but have you tried replacing the flasher? I had an issue where my brake lights in the back would work, but when I used my right turn signal, the right taillight suddenly turned off and wouldn’t flash nor show the brake lights. Turning on my hazards also made all 4 lights work somehow. I replaced the flasher out of desperation before I chased all the wiring and it solved my problem. Worth a try for ~$10

I may just have to start searching for an Eagle once I move into my new house. Everyone on the forum with one is making it look preeetty cool.

I’ve had a few people ask me if the MJ was an old gladiator haha

I’d have to agree with you there!

I’d love to stumble across an interaction like that. Knowing my luck I’m going to run into an MJ the one day I’m not driving mine.

I don’t have it hooked up but the EGR valve itself is still there with a vacuum cap on it. The vacuum lines on the intake manifold stacked I just have routed to each other with a short C shape hose. I want to delete the whole valve at some point but I’m not in a position to make a block-off plate right now

That’s a great idea to put it where the ballast resistor is. Ive fully removed both that and my EGR solenoid so that makes sense

What sort of shop does this kind of work? Something like a wheel repair shop? I'll look into shops in my hometown once I graduate this spring.

What kind of interactions do yall get with other Jeep owners? I’ve personally felt quite alienated from the ‘greater Jeep community’. The only conversations I’ve had and compliments at gas stations etc. have exclusively been from non-Jeepers and old dudes. Maybe the demographic in College Station just doesn’t even know what an MJ is. Just another old truck on the road. Even XJ and YJ owners seem to give me the cold shoulder, which is odd.

Oh cool, good to know that it’s possible. I was worried a shop wouldn’t want to touch them for whatever reason especially with the rivets. Thanks for the input

You just have the passenger, correct? Also do you have any spares of those mounting hooks for the visor? The old one on the passenger snapped in half when pulling the visor out a few years ago.

Yup those are the exact ones on rockauto I was looking at lol

I’ll be in touch next paycheck unless somebody snags them up by then

Which catch can did you use? That looks great

Anyone have experience with restoring/refinishing specifically the 10 hole wheels? Previous owner(s) left a few of the wheels with minor curb rash and that fake bead lock on a few of the wheels is losing its finish and showing black underneath.

Are all the parts in your original post still in stock? How about those charcoal sun visors? Mine have seen better days and the mrs. wants a mirror

Could be instrument cluster ground. I have the same issue, but have yet to fix it. My battery gauge is constantly reading 2-3 volts low. When I mess with the dimmer switch, my coolant temp needle spins around the gauge like crazy. Even if that's not the root cause it definitely won't hurt to do the fix. Cruiser tip 18

It may not be the case but I would put my money on distributor indexing maybe needing to be done. Your symptoms definitely line up with the thread Smash6 linked. Cruiser tip 13

That's unfortunate to hear about the Ranchos. I was mostly considering between that and the KYBs originally but I definitely don't need a stiffer ride than I already have

Good to know. I was considering those, but it's good to have a second opinion about them. Great price too. Thanks.

Interesting. Makes me wonder why they even bothered to do a 3 position rocker switch and have two be the same function.

For any of those that daily drive an MJ/XJ, any specific brands of shocks that you'd recommend when prioritizing comfort/ride quality? I'd be willing to splurge on higher quality brand. I'd get Bilsteins but as far as I can tell, they don't make a set for stock ride height MJs. Are monotubes even worth paying extra for if I'm just looking for on-road quality?