hgeranium

Supreme Leader?

So to all of your CC children, should you be Uncle Pete or Father Pete?

Yeah that would partially explain why my mpgs are so shoddy compared to a lot of the other guys on CC (things are looking much better after the new fuel pump though!). I'm thinking in the past the fan clutch was starting to go out (or maybe he just didn't know how to burp the cooling system lol), so instead of replacing it, the previous owner put in a low temp thermostat and swapped the electric fan to a key-on situation rather than temp-based. I'm just glad he kept the original AMC housing instead of replacing it with a crappy aluminum unit for no reason when putting on the thermostat.

I understand that the typical operating temperature for a Renix 4.0 is ~210 aka right in the middle of the gauge. I've never had to replace the thermostat yet, but as long as I've had the truck, my temp gauge has always stuck around that first quarter mark at operating temp. I think it's about 160. On rockauto I see that there's a 160 degree alternate option thermostat. I assume there's a good chance PO put one of those in there. Unless my instrument panel ground is causing it to be finnicky, although I only notice a clear ground issue with the battery voltage, so I think it's OK. My question is: what thermostat temperatures do y'all like to run? I live in South Texas so, in the summer, the cooler operating temperature is appreciated, but I'm wondering if there are any benefits/downsides to any of the other (including OE) temp options.

Honestly when I'm bored, I check the online user list and click on any threads that look interesting. You could never blame a man for wanting to click on "Uncle Pete"

Any news on a XJ/MJ first car for him now that he should be 15?

Drop the VIN in the registry

Nevermind. Super cool!

Nice! In lieu of looking through your entire thread, do you have a system sentry installed?

I missed this! Please give us the details. I'm very glad that it's back in safe hands

Maybe something similar to this that has the same diameter as the hose grommet?

I wonder how imperative it is that the front CCV hose is the size that it is. Once my new PCV hose comes in, I'll have an extra brand new grommet that comes with the hose (I replaced the grommet w/out the hose on thanksgiving) I'm wondering if I could stick that grommet in the CCV hole and get a small enough vac line stick in the grommet and route it to a catch can in the meantime. It would at least fix that bad seal in the VC until I get the motivation to buy/waste an entire vac harness save for one hose. But like I said, I have no idea if that would cause too much vent restriction/pressure.

Great rig! Looks like the old timer took great care of it.

Yep the temp dropped to the mid 30s from the 70s-80s in a few days here. I'm glad it was nothing more serious. I've never seen anything like that. Since I don't want to create another thread for this one question: Do you have any recommendations for replacing the CCV hose without having to buy an entire front vacuum harness? I have an HO air box and EGR delete so I only have PCV, FPR, and MAP vacuum. The CCV hose just goes straight from the VC to the air box. The hose is so old and worn out. The grommet barely stays in place and gets plenty of oil leaks from it. I realize I may not have an option but to spend the ~$25 for the harness just so I can get that hose. Surely it would last the rest of the life of the truck so it may be a worthwhile investment. I just thought I'd ask if there were any alternative options.

Interestingly, the original dealership seems to be a Vinfast electric car dealer. I've never even heard of that brand until now. "VinFast is a Vietnamese electric vehicle (EV) manufacturer, part of the conglomerate Vingroup, that produces cars, e-bikes, and other mobility products"

Doing a bit of research makes me think that liquid is probably just condensation mixed with oil/whatever else is in the crankcase. I replaced the grommet but not the hose itself. It's still got a decent amount of play and is real easy to take out. Maybe I need to replace that hose to be sure. I suppose the PCV area leaking plus the badly sealed VCG could be the culprit. I'm still curious about what y'all think. It sounds like it has to be an issue with poor crankcase ventilation or excessive pressure.

Hello everybody! Those with keen eyes and memory will remember that, during a road trip, I had an issue with some major oil blow by on the back and passenger side of the engine bay plus a bogging issue that turned out to be the fuel pump. Fuel pump solved one of the problems but I am still noticing some pretty concerning blow by all over the back and passenger side of the engine. I originally thought the PCV grommet had something to do with it. I replaced it and this is what it looks like now: There’s a nice fresh layer of oil on top of it, around it, and on the hose. There’s no blockages between this grommet to the fitting on the intake. there is this oily film all around the back of the valve cover that wasn’t there until recently. It’s fresh. This is a bit further down the valve cover but you can still see all the fresh oil. This is the driver side. Bone dry. Oil level is fine. Color looks OK, smells ok, tastes ok. this is directly behind the valve cover on the firewall. It may be hard to see but there is a fresh film of oil here too. until I do cruisers valve cover fix, I temporarily have the CCV breather hose going to a water bottle and plug in the port on the air box to stop oil on my air filter. Usually there’s nothing in there but since I started having these problems I noticed that there is a strange clear yellow liquid that has come from it. Its viscosity is like water. It’s got a very strange smell to it but from what I can tell it’s not gasoline(?) I think after last weekend I would know what gasoline smells like. I tasted it and it is unlike any automotive fluid I’ve ever tasted. It didn’t taste bitter or sweet, but it was pure tanginess. Like a real strong buffalo sauce almost? I know everyone’s going to tell me to do the valve cover gasket, and I have one that I plan to install soon but I’m pretty sure a bad valve cover gasket isn’t going to cause all the oil in some of these places (namely the PCV grommet, since the oil sits neatly on top of it) nor explains this yellow liquid coming from the CCV hose which is what I’m most worried about. Not pictured but there are plenty of things like the coolant bottle and evap canister have dried oil spray on them, so wherever the oil is coming from, it has some pressure to get all the way over there. Any ideas? It drives great but I’m getting paranoid about it now, especially because the oil smell when driving is so much stronger than it ever was

Mine was the same way. It idled great and only had driving issues when it warmed up. A bad pump will worsen with heat. Were you getting the correct aforementioned PSI? I was only 3PSI off at idle so God knows how low I was when it warmed up.

That's a great picture! I wonder how it'll work to get that rod back into place. Hopefully it's still in the column somewhere and the mechanic didn't throw it out. I would probably need to hit up a junkyard for a replacement if so. Do you know how much I would need to disassemble in the column to get to this point?

Have you checked fuel pressure before you replaced the pump? I recently started having a very similar issue and it turned out to be a bad fuel pump where the PO didn't put a strainer on. My fuel pressure at the rail was a few PSI low beforehand, and was exactly at 31psi at idle and 39psi with the FPR vac line removed.

Years ago I had the Jeep at a shop where the mechanic replaced the turn signal switch. Afterwards I found, which I did not notice for months because I hadn't needed to use them in that time, that my brights no longer worked. Pulling the stalk towards me no longer clicks. It just moves back and forth loosely. Turn signals still work just fine. I know I need to take a good amount of the steering column apart to fix this but I wanted to know what to look for as far as the turn signal stalk and the switch for the high beams. I would guess there's a singular thing that got put out of place or neglected to be put into place so the stalk is not attached to whatever actuates the high beams.

Bump. Still interested in the build sheet for this mystery comanche.

How was your mileage in terms of hardware? I had trouble finding suitable replacement hardware and I see most people just reuse what they have. Mine don’t look awful but the heads are starting to become a bit rounded. A couple of them I need to go up to 15mm instead of 14.

How was it getting the manifold off? I've heard you can take it off for the gasket without removing the heat shield/messing with the fuel rail but I was curious what I would be in for. Maybe doing the extra work would be worth it to have an easier time pulling the manifold off.

The earlier generation Nissan Armadas also had these.