llhat

agree with statement on the type of fuel hose... needs to be specific for fuel injection, 'and' the submersible type inside the tank ( did not really know there was this specificity)... got a spec rating for it or a part number? yes one would think the complete 'kits' would have compatible hose... but.............. would also advise to use the 'fuel injection clamps', not the worm clamp as seen in the image. dorman markets a packaged assortment... i think even the dastardly harbor freight has an assortment. the fuel injection type clamp fully surrounds the hose with pressure and does not cut into the hose like the worm clamps glad you found it !!!

had similar issue last year where engine dies 75yds from driveway on way home, coasted to my garage. would sputter.. no fuel pressure with a gage, , but could hear pump run... did standard test of ballast resistor, etc it was the pump, but in this instance I hired it done as I could not move it inside to access tank... was on grass and gravel, too old for that stuff... had a thread on it last year sometime. i mirror the post just before me, most likely in your instance with gurgling, hose from pump to gas hose connection broken....

not in disagreement for purpose, but separate wires, insulate them before tying them off out of the way.... looks shorted already

but define your terms.... just so everyone is on the same page Crank but won't turn over. The starter turns over the engine in the process of 'cranking'... or attempting to start what is happening to you is it is cranking, engine spinning, but will not run............ is that correct?? by the posts above you saw a spark from distributor, correct... air + compression + fuel + spark = some reaction.. though it may not be the engine achieving RPMS... could be a backfire or after fire agree on verifying fuel pressure at the test port on the rail......

any love for skyjacker?

would you not test the resistance of the sensor ? unless wanting to change it out anyhoo... and yep, gonna lose some fluid (most of it)

this may cover 'something'...

try this not sure if correct pics are there..

but have you checked for spark? pull the coil wire on the distributor (not dizzy) cap and set it close to something metal in the area, have helper try to start the vehicle, see if the spark jumps from the coil wire to metal... (this is easier than pulling a spark plug IMHO). if you are brave, hold on to the coil wire LoL........... (don't do this)

there was an article on conversion to a different valve cover grommet and an elbow from later vehicles... gave part numbers and info... will try a search on it... try this... i was going to do this for the J hose at the air box, but the 19/32 hose would not make that turn... went a different method to update the J hose (on the other end of where you are talking)...

@ the fuel filter.. yes, fuel injection rated hose, and ditch the worm clamps... dorman has some fuel injection clamps in the 'help' section... they do not cut into the line 'quite as bad' ... the worm clamps tear em up.

ditto on the flexible lines

sounds like... caliper piston sticking, not retracting in the caliper bore. Internal residual valve located in master cylinder... Also mentioned a booster change... are you sure the actuator rod from the booster to the master cylinder is adjusted correctly? If it extends too far, the valving in the master cylinder can block pressure return. One test on brake pressure.. when the wheel is 'locked up' loosen the bleeder screw to see if there's a lot of pressure there if the wheel releases, then see above on booster change... if not then I'd say piston sticking in the bore.

solenoid on the starter it does a couple of functions, transfers power from the battery to the windings, and 'pulls' the lever to engage the bendix to the flywheel there is also the starter relay up behind the battery under the plastic cover over the coil and some relays. this relay supplies a signal to the solenoid ( small wire) to energize. start.pdfstart.pdf Sounds like starter winding shorted to me... and some contacts 'fried' in the relay or solenoid ( the extreme voltage draw that you are experiencing) i take it you did not release any 'smoke'? check your cables for resistance or damage... good luck!

4000? yikes, this with vacuum lines plugged? will it run 'off' of the cleaner? i think i see fuel in the clear filter... far from expert, but the choke is still engaged on the weber, this activates a 'fast idle cam' which opens the throttle plates at the base of the carburetor, increasing idle speed. ensure the fast idle cam disengaged and basic visuals for vacuum leaks. good luck

what i used to see was this indicated there is a bulb out .... in your case muliple, as i have seen either left or right and then find the bad blub in your image above, silver cylinder is hazard flasher,, see the "haz" and down-pointing arrow? the yellow is the turn flasher... or potentially a buzzer for key in ignition or the like, i don't have my electrical diagram handy. yes, check those grounds, and the light sockets at each light, expect to replace some of them... i do not know about the alternating side marker/park thing. remember, the park light is one one filament in the bulb, the turn is the other filament (brighter)

If the detroit axle components are re-boxed Moog, then how could they be 'crap'? Used a Detroit axle rear disc rotor kit for a Dodge 3500 dual rear wheel where i needed rotors. I hired the install and the firm indicated there were no issues they could see with quality of the supplied components.

got a hydraulic clutch? looks like a bleeder fitting for some type of hydraulic... certainly not electrical.

had to look up what an Oetiker clamp was... interesting and visibly a quality item.

Just from memory I think the pigtails on both the + and - were at least 12 gage.... I do not think relay control, I'd have to go pull the cover and see where it went... i think to the main terminal (threaded on this image) there are leads heading to the alternator from the relay also from that threaded terminal. starter solenoid terminal goes to the solenoid ON the starter to energize fuel pump terminal bypasses the fuel pump relay block and ballast resisitor (IIRC) i know on that terminal you can jump from battery + to that wire and pump will run continuously

IIRC just a few months ago I replaced both battery cables on my 89 sourced them from O'reilly, both 4 gauge and both had a secondary lead at the battery end with a butt connector. on the positive side, i added a short length and a ring terminal and attached to the starter relay under the electric cover behind battery on the negative side, I did the same and went to the fender for an additional ground both were 4 gage, (wanted to step up to 2 gage) and have seemed to perform ok. this was after a starter install... "maybe" failed from oil leak... maybe not but 169k on it... starter marked Car Quest ( probably from advance as CQ store was closed after AA acquired them.

agree on fuel injection hose, name brand (gates, etc) also strive to use fuel injection hose clamps , not the 'typical' worm clamps. think most FLAPS have the dorman assortment.

do not believe the 5 lug pattern is on 5.5 circle, if they were the centerlines of both 5 and 6 holes would be on same circle. no, I would not 'like' the result shown above at the 2:30 o'clock position, but like others, do not think there's an effect on braking.

years ago, when i had defrost on acceleration, it was the line leading to the 'bubble' located between the battery and the fender, new section, seemed to have worked.

just an FYI on the above link for the PCV valve.. it is on page 7.... thank you for sharing that info...