llhat

there is a vacuum line on the passenger fender, at one spot will have a 'tee' for cruise control.... and it supplies vacuum to the hvac box it follows the fender behind the battery down to the canister on the bumper. Question........ when you have your heat or even A/c operating, and you hit a hill or accelerate, does the air output 'switch' on its own to the defrost ducts on the windshield? If it does, that is a sign of weak vacuum/ cracked canister, or a hole in the hose... Otherwise I'd think you would have enough vacuum supply for the shift device and associated parts... On the intake manifold there's probably at least 3 sources of vacuum... as seen above.. supplying the fuel pressure regulator and in combination supplying the EGR supplying the rear CCV fitting on the valve cover that rearmost fitting is probably the source for the rest of the vacuum systems.... on the other schematic, there's the switch on transfer case... should be a vacuum supply to it, as that switch re-directs vacuum based on shift position....

^^^ and that is where the 'football' under the front bumper 'kicks' in with vacuum supply.... if low vacuum your hvac would divert to the defrost ducts noted also there is an 'adjustment' on the control box (multiple), "A" is the centering adjustment "B" is low speed adjustment "C" is sensitivity (located on opposite side of box from A and B one of those should help I'd think.... suggested to make fine incremental adjustments

looks like some troubleshooting procedures in that scan above... but seem to be cut off......... can the full pages be scanned?

not seeing anything in the wiring diagram, though there is an input from the speed sensor... nothing in the electrical book trouble shooting either. is there not a 'minimum' speed for engagement, like 35mph?

logic would be to 1. test the bulb 2. test the power to the bulb with 4wd engaged wiring indicates a vacuum operated switch sends the signal... possibly on the transfer case, though I cannot determine its location makes a difference in connector number ... automatic versus manual transmission.

on my 89 with 4x4, i went from a goodyear wrangler GSA 30 x 9.5 x 15 to a 235/75-15 Falken Rubitrek at least 35 in the front, but with no load down to 30 in the back. the gooeyyears had simply aged out (they were new takeoffs from a wrangler... they only had 20k miles on them, but showed dry rot and cupping........ speeds over 60 were shake city.......... so far... the Rubitrek have been great......... smooth... and i can 75+ it now if needed....... heck I have been driving it more, with increasing distances........ so far bout 45mile one way..... helps when oil leaks are mitigated (reduced) and stuff is 'working'

go back and review what was posted above. there's a lot of explanation there.... here's another link so you don't have to scroll.

in addition to above... a/c condensate drain clogged heater core leakage

agree with statement on the type of fuel hose... needs to be specific for fuel injection, 'and' the submersible type inside the tank ( did not really know there was this specificity)... got a spec rating for it or a part number? yes one would think the complete 'kits' would have compatible hose... but.............. would also advise to use the 'fuel injection clamps', not the worm clamp as seen in the image. dorman markets a packaged assortment... i think even the dastardly harbor freight has an assortment. the fuel injection type clamp fully surrounds the hose with pressure and does not cut into the hose like the worm clamps glad you found it !!!

had similar issue last year where engine dies 75yds from driveway on way home, coasted to my garage. would sputter.. no fuel pressure with a gage, , but could hear pump run... did standard test of ballast resistor, etc it was the pump, but in this instance I hired it done as I could not move it inside to access tank... was on grass and gravel, too old for that stuff... had a thread on it last year sometime. i mirror the post just before me, most likely in your instance with gurgling, hose from pump to gas hose connection broken....

not in disagreement for purpose, but separate wires, insulate them before tying them off out of the way.... looks shorted already

but define your terms.... just so everyone is on the same page Crank but won't turn over. The starter turns over the engine in the process of 'cranking'... or attempting to start what is happening to you is it is cranking, engine spinning, but will not run............ is that correct?? by the posts above you saw a spark from distributor, correct... air + compression + fuel + spark = some reaction.. though it may not be the engine achieving RPMS... could be a backfire or after fire agree on verifying fuel pressure at the test port on the rail......

any love for skyjacker?

would you not test the resistance of the sensor ? unless wanting to change it out anyhoo... and yep, gonna lose some fluid (most of it)

this may cover 'something'...

try this not sure if correct pics are there..

but have you checked for spark? pull the coil wire on the distributor (not dizzy) cap and set it close to something metal in the area, have helper try to start the vehicle, see if the spark jumps from the coil wire to metal... (this is easier than pulling a spark plug IMHO). if you are brave, hold on to the coil wire LoL........... (don't do this)

there was an article on conversion to a different valve cover grommet and an elbow from later vehicles... gave part numbers and info... will try a search on it... try this... i was going to do this for the J hose at the air box, but the 19/32 hose would not make that turn... went a different method to update the J hose (on the other end of where you are talking)...

@ the fuel filter.. yes, fuel injection rated hose, and ditch the worm clamps... dorman has some fuel injection clamps in the 'help' section... they do not cut into the line 'quite as bad' ... the worm clamps tear em up.

ditto on the flexible lines

sounds like... caliper piston sticking, not retracting in the caliper bore. Internal residual valve located in master cylinder... Also mentioned a booster change... are you sure the actuator rod from the booster to the master cylinder is adjusted correctly? If it extends too far, the valving in the master cylinder can block pressure return. One test on brake pressure.. when the wheel is 'locked up' loosen the bleeder screw to see if there's a lot of pressure there if the wheel releases, then see above on booster change... if not then I'd say piston sticking in the bore.

solenoid on the starter it does a couple of functions, transfers power from the battery to the windings, and 'pulls' the lever to engage the bendix to the flywheel there is also the starter relay up behind the battery under the plastic cover over the coil and some relays. this relay supplies a signal to the solenoid ( small wire) to energize. start.pdfstart.pdf Sounds like starter winding shorted to me... and some contacts 'fried' in the relay or solenoid ( the extreme voltage draw that you are experiencing) i take it you did not release any 'smoke'? check your cables for resistance or damage... good luck!

4000? yikes, this with vacuum lines plugged? will it run 'off' of the cleaner? i think i see fuel in the clear filter... far from expert, but the choke is still engaged on the weber, this activates a 'fast idle cam' which opens the throttle plates at the base of the carburetor, increasing idle speed. ensure the fast idle cam disengaged and basic visuals for vacuum leaks. good luck

what i used to see was this indicated there is a bulb out .... in your case muliple, as i have seen either left or right and then find the bad blub in your image above, silver cylinder is hazard flasher,, see the "haz" and down-pointing arrow? the yellow is the turn flasher... or potentially a buzzer for key in ignition or the like, i don't have my electrical diagram handy. yes, check those grounds, and the light sockets at each light, expect to replace some of them... i do not know about the alternating side marker/park thing. remember, the park light is one one filament in the bulb, the turn is the other filament (brighter)

If the detroit axle components are re-boxed Moog, then how could they be 'crap'? Used a Detroit axle rear disc rotor kit for a Dodge 3500 dual rear wheel where i needed rotors. I hired the install and the firm indicated there were no issues they could see with quality of the supplied components.