skidoo_j

anything that is for the front of an xj will fit the front of a comanche. yes those arms will work.

I treat gears like an engine. If you just did a rebuild on an engine unless it's for racing only you are easy on it. I would follow what you found. I've witnessed new gears in, filled the diff and took off for a 200 mile run. Somewhere between where they were installed an my place the gear oil drained. Needless to say we drug the vehicle onto the trailer because the gears had welded. When i asked the owner of the vehicle if he drove easy he replied like others have on here... "the mechanic didn't say anything about taking it easy ". Needless to say he played with his new high ratio gears, and had smoked his tires right out of the shop. He bragged about being able to spin his 33". Had he taken it easy done a cool down and checked his fluid he wouldn't have had to replace his gears in less than 200 miles. The mechanic didn't cover it because they were used gears. Bottom line Nothing you listed would cause any negative issues. Would it benefit the gears I would say it's more than likely going to prolong their life rather then negate. But it's not likely anyone can quantitatively prove or disprove a "break in period" because someone would have to test a set of gears and pull them at each step to compare and contrast to a set that was not babied. And even that test would be inconclusive because the gears are not identical and the backlash would not be identical from install to install etc. Bottom line is if the manufacture warranty says anything about it, follow it to a tee and document it in some way. I'd relate it to breaking in a gun. Some people get a gun and just shoot the $#!& out of it and never clean it and argue that a dirty rifle shoots better. If I get a new rifle I shoot it twice, clean it, shoot it thrice clean it, shoot it 5 times, clean it, and each of the rounds are shot making sure I never heat the barrel. From there on out I clean the rifle after every trip to the range typically 5-10 rounds. For my long range rifles i clean at range often after every 3 rounds. A new handgun I'll clean after 5 rounds, then after that it gets cleaned every couple hundred rounds. I'd add check fluid level several times during first 500 miles. Then atleast twice after the change. $20 worth of fluid isn't worth destroying 2500 worth of gears, bearings, locker.

i used seal 40576S the yukon conversion kit comes with 3 or 4 seals. I think it depends on the year of the axle. I'm not sure but i think they changed the tube thickness Mine had an ID of 2" if i remember. But during my research some people were able to use the same seal from the driver-side to the passenger. Some people also don't pull the carrier and just re-seal at the disconnect and that maybe why you'll find more seals recommended. other seals i came across when researching NOS 18050 203006S NOS 11899 cr11800 NOS 11343 NOS11777

There's a rust free roller/runner in southern oregon for 600. Just have to file for lost title. It's electrical is shot, but he's got it running some how and it sounds great. It had a dana 44 rear. and factory bumper (factory brackets) it's a it tweaked. He's parting it out now. I pulled the tail lights, short bed gas tank skid, tail gate. And I'm to get the rear axle if he doesn't sell it whole. I'm sure if someone offered him 450 he'd take it. And I'd even sell you back the tailgate and lights for what I paid. Keeping the skid. it's an 88 4x4. I took pictures of it for my reference if anyones interested I can get you his info too. But only if you're going to buy it whole.

Shouldn't this read, "After just buying a set of roll bar mounts on CC, I struck gold again and found a set " That makes two sets of front brackets in less than 30 days you've acquired.

http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/4211821864.html 1992 Jeep Comanche 4x4 runs and drives good. Clean title. 115k original miles. Power steering and A/C work good. Has Maxxis Bighorns with good tread. Leveling kit to balance out the heavy duty warn winch and bumper. Also has a built rear bumper with d-rings. Aftermarket tach and temp gauges as well as a cb and maglite mounted. Sony deck with speakers and sub behind the seat. Canopy with gun rack and bed mat. It's not a pavement princess it has dents dings and scratches as well as clear coat peel but it runs and drives great. Only thing I'd be interested in trading for would be a 1999 or newer subaru besides an outback. $4400. Call or text 541-441-0650.

A set came and went..... I'm still looking for a set.

Just incase you decide you want to try and source a different length shaft from a jy rather than having one shortened. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF

Well My grand father has a set of fire sticks on his suburban and they've never been replaced to my memory. I'm guessing they've been there since the 70's, long enough that the cable housing is rotted, but the antenna's look good as new.

I ended up buying the wj booster/ master. Here are some pics. I made my spacer out of 1/4 aluminum. The lip on the fire wall did have to be bent up some for clearance, and I did have to enlarge the whole on the push rod and ground a flat spot for the brake switch. Nothing had to be relocated. I did do a lot of research prior to my purchases. The 95/96 is a direct bolt for 91+. (no enlarging or griding for switch). If you get the pedal assembly from a 91+ it should bolt into pre 90 so you can eliminate that as an option. Another option i did stumble across but didnt explore was a booster from a 2000 wrangler. The push rod appears identical to that of our renix era booster, however I couldnt find the lenghts of the wranglers rod, so it maybe a direct bolt on. For the brake lines I purchased a 3' piece of tube with bubble flare with m10 ends then picked up some m12 ends. cut to length and double flared the other. It was about half the price doing it this way, and they were the lengths i needed with out adapters. I've been debating on writing a DIY on this and cover all aspects so we can consolidate all the booster questions that show up all over.

You can get the parts at any autoparts store in their fix it parts. Look for horn part for a chevy. you have to modify it a bit, but 2 dolllars and you're up and running.

I'd stay with a single antenna for best performance. The duals have benefits, but are majorly seen with truckers because of their limit of height to clearance and the reflecting planes. So the trailers prevent the antenna radiation from crossing sides to the back. http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/SNGL-or-Dual.htm http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/63Things.htm

If i remember correctly two 3' antenna's spaced about 90" apart transmit front and back further then a 102 would, but to the sides they're about par with a single 4'. Those numbers are approximates from memory of calculations I did 10 years ago. I'm sure if you do a quick google search for dual antenna set up cb or dual vs single cb antenna. Also the duals needed to have exact length cords on each side after the split or they would end up out of phase.

Semi's benefit from dual for two main reasons... 1. if they only had antenna on one side the trailers would prevent the signal from radiating to the opposite side. 2. The two antenna's signals actually bounce off each causing them to send/receive further front to rear In an offroad vehicle dual antenna's is pretty much purely cosmetic unless you can get them 1/2 wave length apart... one front of vehicle and one at end of a trailer? need to be 208" (i think). they they actually double eachother in all directions it could be 5/8 of the wave length. been a while since i've read up on cb and ham radio.

Factory Roll bar tie in brackets: Pictures of the under bed brackets that a member emailed me along time ago not sure if they're posted anywhere else. found owner of pictures, jimoshel: link to original post of brackets with rubbers too

I'll put them over into the random picture thread maybe someone else will benefit.

Pictures of the under bed brackets that a member emailed me along time ago not sure if they're posted anywhere else.

Longer the length the better. Just be sure not to go so long that you catch wires on the street. Just don't run dual unless you're freeway driving.

Hornbred is correct. If you have a 91 or 92 the 95/96 is really the best and direct option. If you have pre 91 all require modifications. I just did the wj and it was not that bad. I was able to retain position of my airbox and washer bottle. the lip did get massaged and the push rod get modified. I only brought up and questioned the wrangler 2000 as it was for sale on my local craigslist and the push rod looks like the one for the renix era. I no longer have my old booster to take measurements from, but it appears the wrangler 2000 maybe a direct bolt with no mods for our renix era pending push rod length. Maybe someone has a renix booster laying around and could measure from mounting surface to center of push rod and i could get the local guy to measure the same to see if it would be a more direct swap.

has anyone ever tied a 2000 wrangler booster/master combo? One was just posted on cl and it looks like it already has the correct push rod, just not sure on the length of the rod. http://medford.craigslist.org/pts/4101326190.html http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Cardone-Reman-Brake-Power-Booster/2000-Jeep-Wrangler-4WD/_/N-je9qeZ8kn7z?itemIdentifier=232691_131640_7889_

Thank you, so this confirms that it is back feeding the circuit. I was not going to do it because of that, but i guess if it was done from the factory and they back fed it too I guess I can't argue it not being correct.

Only info I could find after 11 pages of searches: http://comancheclub.com/topic/19732-random-informative-picture-thread/page-4?do=findComment&comment=396640

Does the marker flash when your running lights are not on? No. The running lights have to be on for the marker lights to flash alternately with the turn signals. You got me curious so I just went and checked. . I'd bet if you swapped filament bulbs into the marker light they would. If you have one laying around would you be wiling to humor me and check?

Does the marker flash when your running lights are not on?

LED lights will work fine with this application as long as you observe correct polarity when installing the LEDs. If installed incorrectly, the LEDs simply do not energize; rotate them 180* and they all work fine. Hornbred you are correct in stating they would work in one direction. So if the led was inserted one way it would work as a flasher only and if inserted the other way it would work as a marker only. The positive and negative alternate with the way the wiring is being suggested. So if LED bulbs were wired in one direction they could function as running lights so when running lights are on they would loose their ground when the turn signal is active, but they would not flash when the running lights are off and blinker is on because current would not flow through the led in reverse.