Wildman

The speed limit starts at the sign post (right at the post) and if your going from a 55mph into a 35mph zone, and there is one sign and up a little ways there is a 2nd sign, the posted speed limit is at the first sign, the second sign is only a reminder sign. You will notice coming into a town that the speed limit is posted and right across the street there is a another sign showing the speed limit leaving the town. In other words, when your in a 55mph zone, and coming into a 35mph zone, you better be going 35mph when you cross that first sign. Same with leaving the zone, you don't speed up until you pass that next zone. As brought up in this topic. Take this from some one whom sat in the 6 hour driving school 2 years ago :D And Yes, always plead "not-guilty" and go to court, and sit there for hours, because the DA or town attorney WILL reduce it to a "parking" ticket. The town gets there parking fees and the state loses out in there sur-charges. Part of my "passing a red light" turn into 2 $60 parking tickets, and the driving school and NO points. I only paid one ticket years ago because I was out of town, and lived about 70 miles away, and that was for an over due inspection, from a road check. Any other ticket I have gotten, always turned into a parking ticket (while I was moving :brows: )

Your right......I remember working on a '87 a couple of weeks ago, and notice it didn't have the Balast Resistor. Was a no start MJ........brought the price down on it too :brows: JohnQ - I posted the part # for you, that should have helped at the counter??

You could just add the switch in the raditor, wire it thru a relay, and have the set up automatic. Eagle explained it for you. The "switch" you need is here - About $18 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 89&PTSet=A And the relay is here - $10 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 99&PTSet=A Or set it up thru the relay and a manual switch like others do. Also, I got two '89's w/4.0, BA10 and both have the aux fans, must have been '89 and after all MJ's came with the aux fan.

That's a stock part at Advance Auto parts - GP Sorensen # GCR7 $3.97 (year ago) Manufactor's name and part # in case you have a diffrent parts store. And Yea......I would replace it for $4.

Eagle - well said! I had a work van t-boned 5 years ago, parked on the street overnight, and the other insurance company (which now carrys my Commerical insurance) offered me $1200 for a 13 year old Ford van, then I gave them copys of all of the repairs I had done over the past 5 years, including the re-man engine, and then reminded the adjuster that I carry a commerical policy on that truck, and mentioned to him about the rental he forgot to provide me, and when the final offer came in at $4300, I accepted that, with the right to re-open my claim (that gets the adjusters all nervous) and bought the van back for $50. With my clean title in hand. And I had the check in my hand 10 days after the accident. I only carry comp and liability and un-insured on all of my vehicles, Collision is just too much in this state to carry on a 20 year old truck. Just keep all of your recepts for any and all work you do to the truck, even the routine items, puts a date and millage on the vehicle. And the most important thing is to have a "Good" insurance agent you can work with. Not some on line company. My agent just switched companys for me this year, and I saved over $300 on the 2 Jeeps.

Man....all I can say is your alittle too young to be having a "Mid-life Crisis" I didn't have mine until I was 42 ;) Yea....I know how the pressures and stress of things build up. I would suggest that you just take some time off. Go on your hiking trip, go to the beach, go see the ocean, just go some where by your self, take a week or two, sort things out, then come back and decide which is better. Don't make any irrational dicisions and start liquidating all of your assets right now, besides, you'll only get 20 cents on the dollar for what you got, and latter you'll be kicking your self on all of the stuff you had, that is not there anymore. Go to your boss, tell him you need some time off to sort some things out. If he is understanding, then your good paying job will be there when your ready to get back to things. Same goes for your sigificant other, if she is carring, she will be there when you get back. Just take some chill time out.......and you'll see how things look from out side the box, that will tell you which way to go down the road. As it was suggested to me at the time, go see a conselor, you'll be suprised how a third party can help you thru this. Make some time for your self, learn how to relax, and gain some patiences, and things will turn around for you ;)

2X Check this out - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight= Make sure your rear brake shoes are adjusted FIRST!! You might not even need to adjust the equalizer after you adjust the rear shoes. ;) And make sure the cables are free and moving correctly.

Ah.....would that be a 4 or 6...........foot ladder to get into the cab?? :teehee: Some how it looks like if you were to lean out the door alittle too far, the thing would just flop over on it's side. I would think you would want to add a air tube to it just to be on the safe side. Really nice find :shake:

I would say that the Factory style is long gone.....JY maybe. Go with what pingpong is putting togetter You can check out this - for both tube and step style - http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... per+Covers And I found that IIRC, FEY has a diamond style step after market (got one) thats listed for the MJ and the Dakota of simular years, thru a FEY dealer only.

Pete - I'm going to take you up on that offer ;) Let's just say, In Setember, I can join AARP........For Free :brows: (That when 50 hits me :teehee: )

2X every thing mentioned, de-greasing will help narrow down the leak, Valve cover gasket, easy and first choice replacement. I had a bad leak, after valve cover replacement, center of the engine, found it on the oil pan, front of the sump, rusted from the outside - in, patched it for now, and new pan on the list, with all the bottom gaskets and seals.....ah....one of these day jobs.

LOL....Yea, I remenber that back in October or November. Another deal we all pasted up and now......(We need a" kicking one's self" Emoticon) this will do....... :wall: Pete - Great looking poster. Was that a show room poster?? Any idea on the date? Nice find :thumbsup:

I don't know if this is really a pole? As Jeepco wrote, have a Good trustworthy mechanic check it out first. It could be a bad fuel pump, bad coil, bad sensor? I guest the real question is, Is the whole truck worth it?? Body good, drive train good, some real sentimenttal value? A ball park price to swap a good used engine in, paying some one with additional parts needed would run around $900 - 1200. 300-450 for used engine, 350 plus for labor, and other needed parts, plus you want to change all of the gaskets and seals while the engine is out and you might need additional parts, water pump, radiator and all new hoses, new wires, plugs, and room for other new parts.. I don't know the price on a re-build motor, others should know. Do you have connections in Florida or Colorado? Towing it what 1600 miles would not be a choice, I don't think I would trust it on the drive, road side brake downs get very expensive (I know :roll: ) If you can get the engine swap where the truck is, then drive it to Florida, that would be the best choice IMO Some one on a local board did their own engine swap, with some "help" and it's been 2 months and still not done. A shop should take 2 days max to swap an engine. What you need to look at is the truck worth it? The value of the truck as it sits now, and what the value would be with a "newer" engine in it, yea a running truck is worth alot more that a parts truck. A parts truck is worth $200 around here, and in good shape, good running $2,300 with NO rust, and road ready. Stick with the 4.0, more of a direct replacement, plus a great engine. ;)

You might find it in here, I looked quick and didn't see the molding - http://www.teamcherokee.com/ Sounds like they used silcone to set the old, use some acidtone(sp) to clean it up. But don't spill any on your paint. And most glass men use paino wire to cut thru old sealant. Hot knife is the best for one person.

Alex - that page from the CD only show decals for 88-90, and the page for the badge listed 87-89, I don't want to post 30 pages just on the decals. The window sticker shows a "Pioneer Package" $767 See what your booklet from AMC saids for this. I don't think that the decals would cost this much :eek: I don't think "you only got" one or the other, there had to be a specific line to order the decals or the badge. Or a package. The way I read this is that the decals were avalable only 88-90. I did not check the 91-93 section. I am sure that the parts list is compiled lists from all of the AMC stuff, three sections, 81-86, 87-90 and 91-93 and about 2,300 pages. I'd be instrested in see what came with the package for $767 All of the other options make sense. { Pictures and mesurments for a Sportruck decal were included with the Pioneer decal stuff} had both samples, so why not.

:agree: That's why I started to find a replacement for the decals. You see MJ's for sale, with out the decals, and the first thing I'm thinking, is it's been repainted. Back to the parts list, 87-90 listings, The name plate were offered 87-89, the decals were '88-89, scan below- The next scan is the Invoice to dealer (window sticker) that was in the GB for the '88 Pioneer. All that is listed is the "Pioneer Package" what this means??? any one's guest, But the side decals are on the truck, holding the rusted out panels togetter :roll: Kind of neat what options and prices came with the truck. Funny that what the options costed new, are now what we'er paying on eBay for used parts :roll: Well, let's see what Spencer can do to re-create the side decals. I got time for this, Body work on this truck is a couple months away. Eagle - if you need, want a copy of this CD on the Jeep Parts manual 1981-1993 to help preserve the MJ, drop me a note. ;)

Yea, see how many bids he has on that?? I picked up a brand new Left couple months ago, eBay thing and paid $62 with shipping (just watching for a new right now) JeepcoMJ stated it right :yes: Some one listed a pair of used on the classified while back. I've seen the price of used from $15-50+ each.

that is what it was. you could get the decals or the badges, or both for the extra cash. but most just got one or the other. or this is what i learned from the dealer and my parts list and stuff. Alex Another good question about what Jeep did in the late 80's :roll: I have a '88 lwb Pioneer, with the decals, No badge on the front fender, As I posted in the picture. But I have the original window sticker for this truck (never know what you'll find in the glove box from the PO) But it is over in the shop, not here, So, I'll look it up and see what the "Order" sheet states. It also has all of the extras posted on the sheet, Bucket seats, vent windows, ect. with the additional cost. And since when don't we drift off of Subject here ;)

Rob S - Don't mean to step on your tread here, But kind of related- VIN ID sheets from Jeep Parts Manual, hope that they come thru :D

Pioneer decals - I was working on that today, I got a sample decal to ship up to Spencer, along with the measurments and some pictures. Been sitting here for over a month, I just back burner it, and the darn day job keeps getting in the way :cry: I'll get them out this week, I'm sure Spencer would like to know how many people are instrested in this project?? Drop him a note. Eagle - I would take your FSM over the chart that I have from the Parts Manual, I would not take what JP prints, as Alex said, there been some issue with them before. That anglefire link has about the same as my chart shows. I will try to scan the charts I have and upload them, there printed from Adobe and I'll see what the :typing: can do. I've been on computers since '86 and they still get the best of me :oops: But self taught all the way. Ah....the 286 was so easy, only did one thing thought :teehee:

You could check here - http://www.car-part.com/ Might get lucky and find one near you for the price. Chrysler Parts Direct is a dead horse.

The chart I have for '87-88, the 8th place on the Vin would be a #1 = Comanche Base, #5 = Comanche Eliminator, P = Pioneer, S =Chief, T = Larado (in the 4001-5000 GVWR class) changes again for the MT trucks. Here's a close up picture of the Pioneer decal- That brown stuff on the box side is New York Mud - AKA: Rust.

Unlimtd - Glad to hear every thing came to a screeching halt for you ;) We have all been there, and know, with old sitting parts, just dump them all and start fresh, saves alot of time and troubles. Now your sure you didn't wear out the brake drum with all of the times you took it off, and put it back on??? Only kidding :D Now you can open up a 15 minute brake shop ;) Good luck on your next project :thumbsup:

:???: Maybe in Ohio, I'm looking at NY and a PA titles and there is no mention of the trim package. You will find the trim package in the Vin number. For 1989-90, location 5&6- 5th place= J = Cherokee or Comanche - 4WD T = Cherokee or Comanche - 2WD 6th place= 2 = Base 3 = Pioneer 5 = Laredo 6 = Cherokee Sport 7 = Limited For 1987-88 total diffrent set of numbers, I checked a '88 and a'89 and there both right. I think that the 2 = Base is also the Sportruck? Anyone know diffrent? and I don't know where the Chief is, was not listed here. The 7th location should be a #6 = Truck (Body Style) Above was taken from 1981-1993 Jeep Parts Manual

Oh Boy....looking for a easy answer :rotfl2: It a Jeep thing :headpop: Front - bad wiring connector, trace down the wires to the bottom marker/turn light. Could be a bad socket also. The rear - the famous connector, on the left frame rail, foot in from the bumper, start there. the rear lite harness has crimped connector jumping up to each lite, could be corrode, just tear the whole harness out, start on one end, and replace all of the crimps, and you should find corroded wires in there. Also, the standard flasher unit will read a bad bulb and keep the dash turn indicator on, Eagle has told me why, but I forget? change in voltage drop? So just change out the flasher for a heavy duty flasher unit. A big help for you would to have a test light, and a multi volt reader to trace down the circuts, saves time switching bulbs around. And I'm sure you checked all of the fuses. And, all of your "any" - Yup, been there - done that :roll: