Wildman

Nice Find Twisty :thumbsup: Now you just have a couple of other years to fill in :brows:

Yes, with out a problem, direct fit over the shifter and 4x handle. Only problem is the ash tray in the back of the console, not easy to reach and where the emergence brake handle "was" but that can be fitted for the drink holder. ;)

I've notice a large oil spot under the '89 the past couple of weeks, I was thinking, rear main, on my list of things to do along with the clutch. So today I climbed under and got a good look at things, and found that the oil pan it's self, right on the front of the sump in leaking, oil dripping heavy. :headpop: The whole pan is crusty, rusty and what not, So I'm thinking POR 15, JB Weld, or go the right way, and get a new pan? On line, about $56 for a new pan. And I know, one piece rubber gasket, new main seal while were at it. Any body have a better/easy fix for this problem???

Yea, the fittings at the Tranmission has some funky fitting, not really O-rings, I believe there more like a "flair" fitting, I got some couple years ago, Try- http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:xk ... =clnk&cd=1 (rockauto.com) After you type in your make - year -model> The fitting are under "Cooling" > Auto trans cooling lines I don't think you will find them off the shelf at any parts store, But if other know, jump in.

It might be possible to fit the 2 door XJ panels on to the sides of the MJ box, and use a 2 door rear flair, here is one write up on the subject- http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ght=flairs I have not tried this, don't know if any one else have tried the 2 door Xj panels, just know that the rear MJ flairs are diffrent from all of the XJ's. I'll be getting into a couple of projects next month, and I'm going to try what works best for my rot problems. I like Jeepthing07 idea with the parts of the XJ fenders, and I'm trying that way first, but one of my right sides is rotted all the way around, so I might fab up the piece for what I need.

JeepcoMJ - are you talking about a brake Actuator (for surge brakes) tie into the towed vehicle hydraclic system. Or are you talking about a electronic brake controler tied in to the towed vehicle??? That would make sense by changing out the wheel cyls with serno (electric wheel cyls) Above for flat towed vehicles, that's what this topic was.

Jeepthing - that's worth a try, I got just the top section rotted out, I'll try that first, got a couple of front fender laying around. Thanks for the idea

:hmm: How do you tie in a electric brake controller (from the tow vehicle brake lights) to the towed vehicle's hydraulic brake system??? Let's see, payload of a MJ about 750 pounds, towing anything bigger that a wheel barrow, I don't think so. U-haul will not even rent you a tow dollie for the MJ (I asked :oops: ) Car dollie = $39 /day, car trailer with surge brakes = $49/day. Yea, I think the $10 is worth it.

Yea, I've seen them some place and went back and found the side panels at Chrysler Parts Direct- http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ But for the price of the panels :eek: 7 ft right $296, 7 ft left $967, and that's net price, not list. I think the XJ panels from Sherman will not work, because the wheel flairs are diffrent from a XJ. And for the $$ for the panels, I'll just make mine from scrach. 24ga sheet metal, 4x8 sheet = $26, cutting, banging = pricless.

If your looking for just a supplyer of sheet metal, check out this site to see if there is a "store" near you- http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ Or try to find a large Metal supplyer in your area, I found Metal supermarket is a little pricer that the steel service a mile down the road from where I live, but they have a minium order of $75. My last order of angle, the diffrence was almost $400 (289 vs 679) As other stated become friends with a good body shop that can make up the parts you need :brows: I have this same problem on a couple of MJ, over the wheel wells rot, I got it on my to-do list for next month.

First, your cheep lights, with only one black lead, that is for the positive "hot" feed, grounding is done by screwing it to the frame/sheet metal, flip the switch, and it lights ;) No spark on the xj, wow, could be several problems, parked for 3 months.....CPS, Wire, connecter, check moisture in the Distributer cap, wire from coil to Dist' leads to the coil, or even the coil it's self. It's just one of them problem that you got to start at one end and check every thing to get to the other end. I don't thing sand had anything to do with lost spark. On the good side of no spark, should knock down the owner's asking price :brows:

JohnQ- Nice picture, I wonder how many saw-all blades the guy went thru to cut that CJ so nice and clean??? :D

:agree: :thumbsup: speed racer - Well Said!!!

Funny....I just picked up an new noise like this last week on my '89, with 86K, sound like a "wire rubbing " noise, right behine the grill/radiator. I'm thinking it's the fan cluch?? Only time I hear it is when I first start up, engine still cold. Of corse in this weather, every thing is COLD ;) Anybody have a better idea??

The only other idea I would have is to check the wiring at the rear, just inside the bumper there is a connection, pop it apart and check for voltage from the back up lights. if you have votage from the front, then check the wiring at the tail lights. I always take the ground off and reinstall it with a new tek screw, after scraping down the paint. Also the rear wiring harness has crimps in the lines, could be one of the crimps have rotted out.

I've run into this same problem. IIRC there is a 5 or 7 amp fuse in the upper right side of the fuse box that controlls the back up lights. I'm thinking it that it's the top most fuse on the box. I found this after checking the switch, checking the wiring and the ground wire in the rear.

simmed96 - If you have the door panel off, you should be able to push the glass up, unless the regulator is really @#**%. If the glass won't move, you can try to take the nut/stud off the arm, and push the glass up, but then you will need to tape the glass in place or it will just fall back down into the door and.....well. If no one else jumps in on this, PM me and I can get one off of a XJ I'm parting out. jbhill - Where did you find a replacement regulator???? I and others have been looking all over the place, others even checked out the dealers. It just don't exist. I had to take one out of the junk XJ to fix one of my regulators.

You might want to expand your Craigslist search to other citys near you. I seen 2 in our local paper adds about a month ago, and couple days after the paper came out, I called and they were gone. Or keep an eye on the following- http://jeep.autoextra.com/model/comanche http://www.auto-rv.com/ http://buffalo.traderpub.com/search.html And if you can find some local 4X4 web sites, you might find some thing on there. Autoextra has quite a few MJ's listed now. That trader pub, is the auto trader, and you can expand you search. Ebay is slow right now but should pick up again after the Holidays. But don't forget with ebay, you might have a long trip ahead of you to pick it up. I think JohnQ brought that up about the shipping. Good luck MJ hunting ;)

I totally agree with Eagle :agree: Way over priced for a stock, rusted out MJ. If your patience and keep looking, you will find the right MJ at the right price for what your looking for. Like I did- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 529&rd=1,1 And I bet this is what your looking for, if you have the drive train, I just wanted some good body parts, and the 7 foot box for a replacement. I wached alot of MJ's go thru ebay, and just stayed on top of this one, Heading down there next week to pick it up ;) The thing that really got me instrested in this MJ was the Crome grill and bumpers, Don't see that on a lot of MJ's. And if any one is interested in The red interior, all or parts, drop me a PM. You should take aemsee up on his offer too :brows: I know last year around March or April, there were 5-6 MJ's that were sold on ebay around north part of NYC and none went over $400

Wow........New Job? What, no more smashed fingers? Sounds like a shirt and tie job. Congratulation :thumbsup: :typing: Might want to try "Video Professor" Or http://cgi.ebay.com/Let-our-professor-t ... dZViewItem Good Luck with your new position ;) and drop me a note.

If you have a Haynes or Chilton manual, there is a step by step process, But basically it remove door panel, drill out rivets holding glass track, 2 screws in leading edge of door, drop down, tilt in, and lift out, then the frame can be taken apart to change out the glass (fixed glass) wing units, need to replace the intire glass track unitl Good luck.

That was from me, Guest I forgot to log in :teehee:

:rotf: :rotfl2: :rotf:

:agree: I think you said it in your post, " I would hate to part with it, but I just pour so much money into it" So keep it, enjoy the sweat you poured into the MJ. If your Dad instsists, then put a price of $3,800 on it and if it don't sell, Well then you got to keep it :brows: pong is right, sound systems don't add any value to a vehicle. What your calling DW might just be shimming of the front, If you have DW, you would know it, when the whole front end starts shaking so bad you spike the brakes and pull off the road to see what fell off, and end up changing your paints. I don't think there is "a bit of DW"

For some one whom wants it all - http://www.warn.com/powerplant.shtml Seen this on another board, just had to share it. This is for the person that is just too hard to shop for, or for the guy that wants all the new toys :brows: I have no Idea what it costs, afraid to know.