Wildman

I checked my one source, and it show's a 1987-90 and 1991-92 as two diffrent model numbers......So I would say NO.

:agree: :jump: :jump: Good one Colton

Yea....Front bumper are the same '84 -96 XJ's will fit the MJ.

I agree that U-haul can be a pain, depends on whom is behine the counter, But I've hauled 5 comanche on the U-haul car hauler, and they fit fine. Only one I had a problem with was putting one on backwards (had a plow mounted to it) and the trailer fish-tailed some, short slow ride, and made it. For the $10 more I take the car hauler, and give them the $8 damage waver, that covers the trailer, and what's on it (The MJ) Charles....when you were up here, should have stop at the U-haul 1/2 mile from the house, they have 8 car haulers, and 6 tow-dollies sitting there, they would have paided you to haul some back your way ;) You seen the 1 Ton truck in the shop next to me, that guy hauled it with a disel Suburan 90 miles, with a tow dollie :eek: If you end up with a tow bar, I looked at an MJ with the bumper off, and the cross frame bar has 2 (high and low) 1/2" holes on each side that would be the perfect mounting spot. I still would not trust the bumper for that far of a haul.

1986Comanche - Your right.....me mistaken.......too many numbers in my head :headpop: jeepmud13- Glad to hear it was something simple :D

HeHe.....I'll past on the cats, in fact you may have all the cats. Another thought on flat towing, yes, I understand that U-haul has thier say on what you hook "there" equipment to, like they will not hook any trailer to a Ford Explorer (tire blow out from 5-6 years ago = big law suit) It's right in there paper work. You should be fine flat towing, with a tow bar, But I would take the bumper off, and bolt the bar conectors into the uni-frame, 1/2" bolts, and if your using an "adjustable" tow bar, make sure it is tight at all of the "slots" and even bolt a spreader bar across it where it bolts to the frame, I had one loosen towing a 3/4 ton chevy pick-up, and I swore that I seem the pick-ups tail lights in my mirror. In other words, it started swaying around, and had to stop and tighten all of the bolts. This same truck, I never went over 55, and even under most of the 100 miles that I towed it. Also make sure you have at least 2 chains hooked from your tower' to the towee' last thing you want to have happen is having the XJ pass you going down hill :eek: Your idea with the engine in the back of the Ranger is a good idea. That little extra weight will help. And I would think you would want to add some "tow lights" to the back of the XJ, should make the smokey happy. I would pull the drive shaft for that long of a tow and take it easy, and you should have your XJ added to the collection with no problems. :D

I didn't even know you had a cat ;) I have flat towed, but only 3-4 miles, transfer case in neutral. drive shafts connected. That far, I would take the drive shaft off, and not chance it. Is the bumper stout enought......NO, look at the brackets that hold the bumper on, here are only 4- 5/16 bolts holding it to the bent sheet metal brackets. for towing it that far, I would not trust the bumper. Plus, if your towing with your Ranger, the XJ is almost equal in weight, if not more, and it would be a tought tow with a dolly. It can be done, but would be a hairy ride, but only when you "got" to stop. A car hauler would be better, with brakes. I know u-haul charges $39 for the dolly, and $49 for the hauler, and I'll take the car hauler any day, any where. But you seen what I pull it with. Have you checked with u-haul if your ranger can pull a car hauler??

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Well, you got a pretty good jump on your MJ project for only having it a couple of weeks ;) Your rotted floors are not that bad, you should see an Mj from up here in NY, if you want to see no floor at all :roll: Your asking about a welder, if you ask over in tech, or pub, you'll get some replys. But, Yea, you do want to get a Mig Welder, and you'll be better off with a 220volt welder, you can do light gauge (sheet metal) and heaver gauge, like 1/4" steel with a 220. One unit I like for the price is the Hobart handler 187, they run around $650, plus you need to get shielding gas with it, and a 40 cuft tank is now around $140. What you pay for gas, around $16 for a fill-up, you can use solid core wire, witch is about 1/2 the price of flux core, and you get a better looking weld, cleaner looking. Shealding gas should only be used indoors, and flux core is used outside (wind blows the gas away) You can get a 110 volt mig welder for $300-450, you can weld upto 1/4" but that's pushing it. It's best for sheet metal. I have a 110 volt welder, cause most of my use is on the jobs, and most of my welding is on 16 gauge steel. But for big shop projects, I borrow a friends Hobart 187. Here's a site that you can find out more on mig welders, body work, and auto body painting.......it's a great site- http://www.autobodystore.com/ You can get lost in there for a week, and still not get thru the entire site ;) Mig welder are expensive, but not like years ago when you could not touch one for under 1600. Just don't buy a cheap welder, not from Hobo Fright, or any off brand, and Centry are not good, I know. Names like Horbart (owned by Lincoln) and Lincoln, clarke and couple otheres are the best buy. It's an investment, and a useful one at that. Look at your local paper for used, and sometime you can get one with little use for a good price, don't buy a used one from a shop, it will be run to the ground. Good luck with your project.......I'll keep watching :brows:

rockhard......I know where you can get a 2 post lift, south of the city for $1100 and just put in in your driveway, I seen the lifts outside down in SC ;)

:teehee: Yep.....quite the haul there. And Thank You for shopping at Wildman's pull-n-pick ;) Where you pull it off, and pick it up, and get it out of here. I hope every thing works out for you Charles.

jeepmud13 - Yes, it could be the ground wire, double check that. It almost sounds like the 1157 bulbs are in "backwards" first try removing the bulb, and turning it 180 degrees, and locking them back in. If that's not the problem, then it's in the wiring harness at the tail end, there are very junkie crimp conectors for each light socket, and they should be checked, plus someone else, past owner, could have messed up the wiring changing a socket. Just go thru the wiring, and change what you need to, to make it work correctly.

CW - Good to know, I have some clear coat pealing, so this would work for both the pealing clear coat, and the weathered alum.....Cool.....And I know what your saying.....rinse them thoroughly, and wait some time to add clear coat ;)

CW - Those 9.50 do look really good on the MJ And thanks for the tip on the coil cleaner, I got a couple set of turbine's I want to clean up, But did you clear coat the rims after cleaning???

If you have a Hanye's manual, there is a way to check the CPS from the top, in the engine bay to check it for OHM's across points A and B, to see if if is defective or not. Your cranking problem could be from the fuel pump back draining into the tank, in other words, the "check valve" on the pump is faulty. You say when you start off down the road, is spits, like it's not getting enought gas, that could also be the fuel pump. That was funny about your testing the new alternator, and forgetting to hook up a wire. Don't feel bad, been there, done that. Is aways the little stupit things we do. Now that the Alternator is fixed, I think your next project is the fuel pump. You can just change out the pump and filter sock alone, or the whole sending unit, you have some time, so check this out- http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,6256 There are two diffrent pumps that Jeep used, I think the Bosch OEM was more popular, that's what I've seen on my MJ's. If you have a Harbor Fright around you, they sell a fuel pump tester for like $8, and it's handy just to have around.

I would say, if you have the room to store them, and the price is right, like couple hundred -to- $300 I would get them both, and if the '88 is a good ride, pick that one up. The two you discribe have parts that are interchangeable, at worst, you can take the 2 MJ's and make one mean street machine. Putting the parts over to the '86 would be the better of the two. You do want to keep the 4wd, and the AX5 is a better tranmission of the 2. Also, I like the ride of the lwb better than the swb. If the '86 doors are really bad, change out the doors from the '87. I don't know if you want to get into a project like that, or just want a MJ to drive, but you will be suprised that once you start working on them.....Well you got bitten by the MJ bug :D Also having a part vehicle at hand is alot easyer to do a project, you never know what part is missing, or broken, and you just reach over to the parts truck, and there it is. Just remenber, A person can never have too many MJ's And some of us have more that 3 MJ's :D

I've seen it couple of places, but Team Cherokee comes to mind - Check this out- http://www.teamcherokee.com/Weatherstrip/index.html Little pricey......but what-ya-gona-do ;)

Well....alot of us do thing right, the first time. We don't re-use old gaskets when a new gasket costs $3. And most of us don't just bandaid a project to sell it off to someone else that ends up with all of the headaches. Yea, I read most of your posts. I guest us "old timers" have more patiences and pride in our work ;)

Came across this today, might help - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Che ... 0118940177

Well, you can do it JeepcoMJ way, But--- "3 bolts hold the throttle body on." Yea, there T30 torx "then 2 connectors for the sensors" That's correct. "then the one hookup for the throttle system." This would be the Throttle linkage. " remove throttle body (spray bolts with pb if needed)" Ah....this should not be needed, unless your throttle body is rusted to the intake, which I doubt. But if you take it off the intake, you need a new Throttle body gasket, and need to retork the 3 bolts to the proper tork. So....I would say, try it in the truck first, and it will save you alot of extra work.

Oops, I thought everyone new about the mis-spelled versions like commanche, camanche, comanchee, oh crap did I do it again? :P I had watched the club to see if anyone brought it up and decided at the last minute I would throw one bid in just to see if I would get lucky. :brows: HeHe.......no that's cool, I seen it when it started at $8 and thought the same thing that it would go nuts like the last one, the all week it just sat there, and I too didn't see any mention on here. So you got a great piece of Comanche, or Commanche history there

Eagle - Yes, I was in the wrong with that statement, and your statement about the "builder favor" is correct. I been doing commerical for the past 20 plus years, and all we use are the AIA schedules, I get confused at times :roll:

OK.....I got an extra return spring, took it off an extra Throttle body last night, you can change it in the truck, but it's a hell of alot easyer on the bench ;) Bend back locking tabs, remove retaining nut, slide assembily off, spring slides over "plastic" housing, and the only problem I see would be getting the spring loaded on the throttle body, there's a "notch" for the spring to rest on, as you can see in roadless's pictures. So.....let me know if you need this or not. Or you can find one at your local JY, plus you'll always find other things there :brows:

Most contract law's are based on AIA contracts. BUT - each state has there own governing laws when it comes to "Contract Law" and is enforced by the States Attorney Generals office. Do get an attorney, but get an attorney that specialize's in Realty/Contract, don't get your friend's brother-in-law friends DWI lawyer, get an lawyer that KNOW your states contract laws. Breech of contract will not stand, because you made changes to the contract with "extra work" and extra's carry additional time, and that is what your contractor is standing behind. I know your upset about this, but don't bash your builder, here or anywheres, that could come back to bite you. Who know's he could be a menber here and logging your comments about him :roll: If you own your land, have the deed in your name only, and the builder is not on it, well, in NY that is a Big plus, there are ways to "remove" the builder from Your property. This in not the place to go into details. As far as your builder orchestraing with your lender, that should not happen, unless your lender has been providing direct draws to him, then your on the sidelines, and they are calling the shots. People always try to save a few bucks not getting an attorney at the begining of a project like this, and one is not always needed, until a problem arise, then you got to bring one in and up to speed with what happen, and that costs twice as much than if you had one in the begining. There is an old saying in realestate "Buyer Beware" I have an old friend going thru a real mess from some property he bought last year, because he used the seller's attorney for closing.......Big mistake, there not looking out for YOUR instrest, and he's paying the price now. So, get your self a Good Realty/contract lawyer Monday morning, provided all the paper work you have in hand, and now your at the he said/she said stage, and you will have a long wait until you can close on this chapter. A good lawyer, will be making phone calls right away, and know this, don't let him drag this out anymore. Don't waste your time with the legal aid beagles, nor even call the BBB, your pass that stage, you need a Real Attorney NOW. Now......let's get back to MJ's ;)

mfpdm - now you gave away the secret mis-spelled e-bay listings :razz: O'well.......I just had a funny feeling that some one from here was bidding on it, so I let it slide, but yea, it was a Great find, and even better price on it :thumbsup: