Wildman

We'er you gone some where???? :???: So how's your new job???

ridenlow12 - My next door neighbor has a '46 CJ2A, along with his '56 Willies and is very active in a willies club, I'll see him this week end and PM you some info where to source parts out. What he tells me, parts are $$$$$. I think there's a few members here that have one also. Good looking CJ2a

:agree: The Chilipepper Red is deeper/richer looking over the stock Colorado Red. New paint = New color = New truck

Yes, I could be wrong, I've never played with a AX-15, just don't seam to exist in this part of town :eek: But for the AW4's and BA10 I've handled, these are the diffrence in mounts that I've crossed. What little reserch I did on it, I could not find much except for on TeamCherokee.

:agree: Oizarod said it best :D The repo man only has towing involved, and maybe couple hundred to buy it as is, the owner is on the line for the balance due. Offer him the $500 cash, and if he turns it down, tell him you'll give him is best price, but you want all of the repairs done, and tune-up, and new tires, and a inspection (if you need one) and you'll have him, and I'm sure he'll take your first offer :D

The mount on the left is for a AW4, on the right is BA10 - AX15 mount. Only place I've seen that mount, (in my shop) and here- http://www.teamcherokee.com/Transmission/index.html bottom of page. Unless someone has a better sorce for the trans mount.

PM sent ;)

The sending unit don't exist, what the parts store are selling you is for a XJ, and totally diffrent, Rear tank vs. mid mount tank. The sending units are set up for both the 18 gallon tank (swb) and the 22 gallon tank (lwb) eather one will work, the only diffrence is the pump, eather for a 4.0 or 2.5 engine. I have one person instrested in a sending unit I have, but I could have another one, if I pull it from the tank. I have to hear from the first person that has dibs on the extra unit I have frist, if no responce, I'll let you know. Unless some one else on there has one for you.

For just adding some, or topping off, just off the shelf DexronII/ Mercon ATF will be compatible.

Yes......makes total sense, with the VOC regulations. So.....lable means every thing :eek: What you get is what you want :brows:

No, but you need to pull the cover, there's a "C" clip that holds the intermettent shaft in place, you do need to pull the carrier if your going to replace the left seal. Knocking out the right outboard seal is not that hard with a long rod or pipe, getting the new seal in.......hard. Check this out - for replacing the seals- http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/TECHNICAL.htm 5th toptic from the top of the page.

Well......glad you made up your mind on keeping the MJ :D Now you have a plan, and it sounds like a good plan, see, you just needed to ask around and every thing came to you ;) Like I said before, any parts you might need, drop me a note, and take a ride over the bridge, I'm only 30 minutes from NF. I might be able to help you out on the D30.

It might be worth to spend some time over here - http://www.autobodystore.com/ Or even post this question there. I know the "newer" paints are polyurethane base paints, and Old dog like me, I've done Lacquer base paints in the past, and might switch to the urethane when my projects get that far. As far as a Machinery and Equipment paint........I don't know, might come out just fine, or it might look like a paint job on a John Deer?? I've heard other's using M & E paint, but for trail riders, and quick jobs and touch up. Maybe you should check with another Pro Paint shop in your area. Like Keystone, or Sherwin-Williams "auto finishes"

Most of the Renix spect's can be found on this site - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm And thank whom ever posted this site, I just bookmarked it. Parts sources - For big parts, Junk Yard lists - http://www.car-part.com/ Napa is a good source, but not in my area, nothing is stocked, or very little, so - http://www.rockauto.com/ http://www.advanceautoparts.com/ And between Rock and Advance, I always compair $$ sometimes there is a big diffrence, it pays to compair.

Every thing and any thing by John Grisham :D About the only author I take the time to read. Althought, I've fallen behind on the last couple of new books :roll: I've had "The Last Juror" sitting here and still have not gotten thru it. Too many other projects going on :cry: If you get a chance, read "The Testament" (John Grisham) great story, infact, two story's in one. One of his best. Now you got me thinking of blowing off a weekend and finishing this book :D

Also check the ground wire behind the left light, replace it if you need to, that's the ground for the whole rear end, including the fuel pump. The rear light harness has some crimp connectors in the line, they corrode, and you might have to pull the complete harness apart and re-do them.

Yea.....couple months ago, CW posted how he cleaned up some rims with "Coil cleaner" I'll see if I can find the post. Here - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... &start=255 Near bottom of page, posted 6/16/07......way back :eek:

Most of the body parts your looking for are very hard to find rust free. The front fender is the only one the is a easy replacement piece, try Keystone, they stock the fenders. Your best bet is to find a Junk Yard with lots of XJ sitting in there, and you'll find the doors, rockers, and fender. Cab corners, some one on here. Bed sides........you will not find. I'm trying to get set-up to make a replacement panel, but it will be a couple of months before the day job slows down that I can put some time into this. Price on welding.........wow......yea, alot of hundreds, unless you make friends with a body man. You might want to start teaching your self how to do this, and buy the equipment. Check out this web page, lots of good info on there - http://www.autobodystore.com/ Good luck, and keep us posted :D

I posted this some time back, hope it helps - I could dig up the '86 info if you think any of this will help you in your quest :D This all came from a CD of Jeep parts manual 1981-1993.

I have 2 '87 wiring harness's on the shelf, one has some cuts and splices, let me know and I could send you the light connector, or the whole harness. Then do as Eagle sugested, splice it in to your harness. Gee......I hate to take business away from the dealer......But I don't think I could get $300 for this :D Let me know, drop me a PM.

To answer your other question- They should be 3.07 gears, and with stock 235/75/R15 tires this is geared the best for a DD and for little off roading, going thru 2 feet snow......so on. I can get my little MJ up to 80 MPH if I really want to......some times :D So get all of the "Edumicate" you need, and go buy that MJ :brows: Just remenber, every thing from the door "B" pillard forward are the same / interchangable between the MJ and the XJ. With one note, that was brough up, the seat brackets are differnt. Every thing behine the "B" pillard is Only MJ trucks. That XJ D35 you wrote about would not be a bolt on for the MJ, and yes, the gears are very low, too low for street DD driving. And welcome to the Club :wavey:

The TSB is posted in here - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Under the CPS article. After looking at that, you might want to go back to "points and condenser" :eek: And FxRacing282, brings up a good point about the distributer, and check the CAM Position Sensor located in the "distributor" Also.

Eagle - I re-read this post several times, I think you answer your own question- I assume that was the old CPS, yes?? and then you installed a new CPS. And assuming that you got the right year, i would really look into the connector, and/or the wiring. And was there not a Service Bulletin regarding wiring the CPS directly to the ECM years ago?? I understand the FSM say to test the CPS with the engine at operating temp, to throw the ECM into "closed loop" but that's not posible :nuts: I've tested the CPS before, cool, and got the reading that were with in range on the book, I would still test the new one this way. I had to change a CPS on one MJ, and belive me, it's worth droping the trans support, and droping the trans down enought to reach the CPS, and I'm sure my hands are alot larger than your's :D And I know what "points" and "condenser" are, and have the gray hair to prove it :brows: I'm sure glad to work on electronic ignition any day!!

camjeep3 Posted this some time back, might help you with the trim package from your vin- http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... c&start=15 2nd page, half way down. But like one '88 I have, the window sticker was in the glove box, and the extra's that were added could change the factory list. From your discription, it sounds like a "sportruck" As far as the oil leaks, well it's start with the valve cover, and work from there, or just get every new gasket and spent some time and redo every thing, oil pan gasket (one piece rubber), rear main seal, timing cover, oil filter adp O-rings, and then the in-put / out-put shafts on the trans and transfer case, I have found that the 18 year old seals just don't hold up :cry: The '89 I DD I just went thru everything, and even a new oil pan, now it only drips a little here and there. Another way is to clean the engine, get all of the old oil off it, and then trace down the leak to pin point it. But that's a crap shoot too.

Yes, Wheel cyl's are 8.50-10.00 each, and I alway replace them, not dealing with the rusted bleeders, and the leaking seal that are 17-18 years old. I just get bulk 3/16" brake line, 25 foot roll @ $22, pack of hollow nuts (3/16 x 3/8 shorts) and cut/chop everything old out, and start fresh, less time and know there will be no problems down the road :brows: And as Eagle stated, get a good double flair set, I've used my $49 set many times. Do not use compresion fitting, they leak, not legal, and not kosher. Same with the calipers, if the bleeder are rusted, spend the $18 for new ones. I also order up and replace all of the soft lines, all 3 of them, after 18 years I figure there shot too, and don't have to deal with trying to get the hardline off of them :D But that's me, and I'm in the major rust belt, and 40 miles North/West of the salt mine :eek: So for $120 and half days work, I've got all new brake lines and don't have to deal with them again for another 18 years. And as mjeff87 wrote, do the rusted out cables ($18 each) and new shoes and hardware (springs and holddowns) new adjusters and toss on some new pads, and your done with the brakes for a long time.