Wildman

PM sent :D

Ping - Glad to hear you went with a good reliable, sensible vehicle for a DD :yes: And it looks super clean :thumbsup:

:agree: :D

Or just post a WTB in the classified's and I or some one else will ship you a set out on that Island :brows:

Ping - That backing plate has 2 holes in it for a "spaner" wrench, kind of like the same wrench you would use on a angle grinder to remove the nut. I have no Idea what size it is, but the last one I pulled, I was able to get a pair of channel locks in there to hold the disk from spining, and take off the front disk. I got some loose glass in the shop, I could check the hole spacing and let you know, I'm sure your local parts store would carry this spaner wrench.

Yea, I do remenber :(

Yes, there was a "factory" hitch option, the trailer hitch from the XJ will not fit/work on the MJ. The MJ hitch mounts on the outside of the rear "frame" and drops down under the step bumper. A while back, some one posted about the "new" trailer hitch that some place was listing on e-bay. Found it - http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6478 Some one up here got one, and I got the 2nd one that they had delivered :D

I'm by no means a computer guru :hateputers: But, you might want to look in to Peachtree ( by Sage) Very expanded program for statements and spredsheets, and advance accounting. And check out e-bay for a license copy, I pick up one last fall, the 2006 series, that upgradable for .99 cents, and $10 shipping :D I still have not got into all of the programs. And very good support. The "Advanced" Complete Accounting has a inventory program. Also, it runs with MS Excel and Word.

Extremity Good Tribute!!! And It's never too late for Veteran's day ;)

Assuming you backed the adjuster all the way down, the drum tends to "rust weld" around the axle shaft hub. Try a little heat, eather from a torch or even a propane torch around the hub, on the drum it's self, and that will expand the metal alittle and it will pop off. Put the heat between the studs and the hub, and go all around the drum. Take it from some one in the rust belt, it works :D Oh......and welcome to the ComancheClub :waving:

NO.......Wildman don't buy from Napa, and he told you Advance has the door jamb switch :D The switch is - GP Sorensen # JS39 $3.56 And it should be a stock item in the store. Advance store that is ;)

For a direct swap, your looking for a '87 - '90 4.0 engine. If you go to the high output (4.0HO) '91+ you looking at changing the total wire harness, both in the engine bay, and behind the dash, also replacing the ECM, and alot of other problems, and from '91+ all of the gagues need to replaced or change to a positive ground, not the negitive ground on the '87-90. Can it be done, yea, but not easly. Also, The frywheel will need to be changed out to the '90+ for the CPS to read correct. It like a total change of everything, what your trying to do. On the other hand, the 2002 4.0 will fit in the bed of the truck with out a problem, and you might need to leave it there for the dead weight. As far as price, I have no idea what a 2002 engine is worth, that's too new for me, I only work on things from '96 and older :brows:

If the starter soleniod is "clicking" that means the starter if frozed up, OR the battery cable is not putting enought current thru to turn the started. You turn the engine with a 3/4" socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, good, you know the engine is free ;) Did you check the battery cables?? both the positive and negative???? One trick, take a hammer and tap the starter 3-4 time and then hit the key, if the starter is locked up, Some times this frees it up. One of two things are wrong, the cables are bad, or corroded and not making good contact, OR the starter is shot. You keep playing with the starter relay, you took the wire off and found nothing, that's not your problem. If the soleniod is clicking, it want to get juice to turn the starter, and your not.

Hornbord - Yea, I don't know the HO at all, and still learning the Renix system myself :D OK.....try this - http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm Under "Engine, fuel system" > Fuel System - PDF File > Rexis fuel service manual. But get ready for 100 pages to open :eek: That's the complete service manual for the renix fuel system Have fun reading :popcorn: And you'll be an expert on the fuel system after you read the complete service manual.

Here, try this, half way down the page, under EGR Solenold - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm And like I said, I have not found a inertia switch on the MJ. I'm thinking what hornbord wrote about the ASD is doing the same as an inertia switch.

OK.....now I got ya :D Yes, I know what you mean, and there should be a Inertia switch, which could be added. I've yet to find the inertia switch on these MJ's. So with you straight wiring the ground to the relay, the addition of the inertia switch might not be a bad idea. Yes, I seen Hornbord reply, and I think that where you have a problem, with the auto shut down.

I'm not sure what the ohm's would be but the last ballast resistor I replaced was with a GP Sorensen # GCR7 The relay would only have power with the ignition switch to the ON position. And you tested the fusible link, and that's good?? I don't follow you on the "No ground signal' coming for the ECM. where are you testing this, and to what?? The red wire??

The '89 4.0 will have a ballast resistor for the fuel pump, located on the left fender, above the air box. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... lenoid.jpg This can be bipassed to check if it is operation properly by disconnecting both orange wires, and using a paper clip to connect them, if the engine starts and runs, that's it. The resistor is to provide full power to the pump at start up, and to "curve" the voltage durn running. If this is still not the fix, pull off the left (driver) side tail light, and check the ground wire on the body, this ground shares with the tail lights and the fuel pump.

To answer your question on testing the CPS, Check this out, about half way down the page - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Or here - http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes/di ... CPSdetails

Thanks Charles :D :jump: Now it will match up with one on a swb MJ :yes:

Didn't some interior dome light just sell on e-bay for like $65-70 with no bulbs???? there was a bidding war going on between 2 guys. That might be worth your time to pull them, in like 3 minutes :brows:

Your 8th diget in the Vin will tell you what package you have - For a swb - 1= Base (sportruck) P= Pioneer S= Chief T= Laredo And you could have like my one '88 that is a Pioneer with custom options add from the buyer. But with the buckets and full counsel, it almost sounds like a Elimator?? Regardless, you still have a fine looking MJ :D

Plus you might need to put a little "shoulder" into it :D Had the same problem few years ago, and when you get it open, take it out of the door, and clean the lock mechiaism real good, the one I had was full of sand, from the PO running a sand blaster too close the the truck. And lube the snot out of it with some white lithium grease.

Pretty Cheap saids it all :D '92, last year the MJ was made, should have a 4.0 HO engine, the auto should be the AW4 (Good) and NP 231 transfer case (Good) Might be a good idea to go back and look at it in the day light, to make sure the frame is not rotted out. Rockers can be patched, if the door bottoms are rotted, can be replaced with good XJ doors ('84-96) I guest the main thing would be how many miles on the clock?? Over 200K?? around 100K (better) but if the price is right, go for it. :D

You say you have a Haynes book, there is a way to test the vacuum on the cad to check that it is working correctly. When you took it apart, removed it from the axle, did you install it so that the sleve sat in the forks?? And your correct that the one line feeds the cad in pulling the forks to lock the axle shafts, and the other line pulls it to unlock. And Yes, you could have the lines backwards, causing the cad not to engage correctly. But you also said you had the vacuum lines off?? did you re-install them correctly?? The vacuum switch on the side of the transfer case does not go into the case, only at that switch, there is a ball indent inside the case that opens the switch when you move the lever back. Your other problem seams to be the rusted linkage, get that loosen up, and then you should be able to shift in to 4wd high and 4wd low, there is not a lot of movement in the case between the ranges, only about 1 to 1-1/2 inches, about a quarter turn, that's why the linklage needs to be set correct at the lever. Your thinking right how the whole system works, but your blowing compressed air into the system, when in fact, you need to apply vacuum to the system. Your on the right track, but you got to have a line on wrong, or at worst, the vacuum switch at the transfer case is not working correctly. And do the vacuum test at the cad, I've had a bad one before, and you could "lock" it it to the engaged postition just to get thru this problem, and then leave it locked, or find the right line to feed the cad. If your front drive shaft is turning, that's a good sign, that means the transfer case is engaging and not trashed.