Wildman

Aw......your just saying that, cause it more that the usual price of $1.50 your use to paying for an MJ :roll: Here a click of the last time it went thru, I saved this for some reason....Oh yea, highest price MJ I've seen the the past 5 years :eek: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 42720&rd=1 What's odd is it's only been listed 1-1/2 days, and the bids already up to $2247 and still another 8-1/2 days to go :nuts: Why would some one bid that high, and then walk away from it cause of the alternator was bad????? Guest the seller should have made sure it ran before loosing out on that deal :cry:

This should help, it's also in the Haynes book ;) http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Tra ... ostics.htm Also click on the link for the ' cable replacement' and it will give you a little more details.

X2 on the TPS The trans not shifting out of 1st is almost always the TV cable (what you call the 'kick down' cable) On the 4.0, it is adjustable, you might have it hooked up, but not adjusted just right, double check that first.

What's it worth?? With the motor pulled, drive train too?? And real rusty.........$150 > $200 tops, little more that what the scrap yard will pay, but you know what the 'little' parts are worth :brows: And if it was in Wisconsin, $1.50, and they would give you a block of cheese :D [i couldn't resist :evil: ]

Don't know what your budget is, but check out 'TeamCherokee' http://www.teamcherokee.com/Accessories/index.html So called "Front Bull Bar"

I think that would be the biggest challenge right there ;) Cutting the frame in the right spot would have to be done, on both sections, and after cutting up 2 MJ (Don't curse me, they were rot boxes, even the frame was gone) there is not a lot of "frame" there, 3 folds of sheet metal, forming a 'U' At least up to just behind the cab, then the "real" frame starts, how to to join the 'frame' sections back together??? BTW - A sawzal goes right thru the frame like butter ;) Yea, anything can be done, But this saids it best-

Why??? :hmm: Problems, yea, drive shaft, E-cables (front) brake lines, fuel filler, gas tank? spring shackles, tail pipe, that's all I can think of real quick. You would need to cut 6 inches off the front and 6 inches off the back of the frame to make a short box work. Plus I don't think the box bolts would be in the same locations?

Read your PM :D

I just posted the capacities above, 18 gallon for the SWB and 23.5 gallons for the LWB ;) The only difference is the length of the tank, and 2 straps on the swb and 3 straps on the lwb. chicofuentes0224 - Now I see your problem, got to love it when someone does such a fine job on patching something :nuts:

No Problem :D I guest the best thing to do, is pull both, put them side-by-side and eye them up :roll: The only thing I could think of is the 16 gallon tank sending unit could be a little shorter in hight?? Might throw off your gauge a little, either for the good (you'll never run out of gas) or for the bad (you'll run out before it hit's E) ;)

:agree: In fact, you need to take the tank off before you take the bed off, the tank is mounted to the bed with the straps / bolts. Dido on the making of the bolts, I found it's just easier to cut the old bolts off and pull the straps out, with the tank resting on a floor jack, with a block of wood in between. And making new bolts from 3/8" carriage bolts, bending them into a "L", and a little grinding on the head to slip into the key slot. Just try to siphon out as much gas as you can before you try to remove the tank. And don't forget to unhook the negative side of the battery before you start.

I was thinking you could, so I looked it up and this is what I found- 24 SENDING UNIT - EFI Eng. *** 8350 4483 1 w/16 Gal. Tank w/2.5L Eng. EFI - 7 Ft. Box - 1988 8350 4486 1 w/16 Gal. Tank w/4.0L Eng. EFI - 7 Ft. Box - 1988 8350 4481 1 w/18 and 23.5 Gal. Tank w/2.5L Eng. EFI - 6 and 7 Ft. Box 8350 4485 1 w/18 and 23.5 Gal. Tank w/4.0L Eng. EFI - 6 and 7 Ft. Box That #24 is the item # from the diagram, and the 8350 **** is the part number, :dunno: Worth trying???

Wait a minute, You stated in your first post that you already replaced the wires, plugs, cap. Now your saying there 6 years old......... :eek: Don't you realize that rubber brakes down over time, he!!, a little critter could have been chewing on the wires in all that time. Before you start tearing everything apart and checking all the sensors, Go Back to the basics and start with new wires, and a new cap, yea, if its been sitting all this time. Don't matter now many miles are on them, Time takes it's toll also. To Quote JT - K.I.S.S. Ether I missed it in your first post, or you didn't say anything about the time span from when you first replaced everything :roll:

You say it get worst when it running at operating temp.......might be you cat plugged up??? But that would show as a lack of power, not what your describing. I would also check the EGR, and the Ox2 sensor.

Yea, Welcome to the 'Club' :waving: I have a couple of low mileage 4.0's up here if you want to go that route. And still plan on making some replacement bed sides if the day job ever slows down :roll: That's the first MJ in that color I've seen, I like it :D

Here a link to get educated on the sensors :smart: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm If its 'choking' at high RPM's it almost sounds like a fuel issue. You've taken care of the most basic items, it might be worth checking the TPS, changing the fuel filter, and doing a pressure check on the fuel pump. Also, you might want to check the ballast resistor for the fuel pump, use the jumper trick, and take it for a ride to see if it's acting the same.

This was posted some time back, Eagle has the complete write up on that ;) http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... e+bleading

Well.....you got my e-mail, and you know where I'm at, so drop me a line for an MJ, see if one I have fits your needs :D And I told you, once you let your father drive the MJ, you'll never get it back :roll: And I see your parting out that XJ :cry: So drop me a line, I got a few extra MJ's right now.

The only ones I've seen listed are the Double lipped seals. Places like rockauto, and advance only list a double lip rear main seal. You might have read that the single lip seal in no longer available :dunno:

Being the 'closed' cooling system, the pressure bottle is part of the closed system. If the cap is coming loose, it could be a cracked cap. Might be best to just change out the pressure bottle first and see if that resolves the problem. Also check the tension on the serpentine belt, it could be worn or loose, letting the water pump slip, and not "pumping" correctly. If it the 4.0 engine, the water pump turns counterclockwise, and some one might have put a 2.5 water pump on there that turns clockwise, highly unlikely, but possible. At worst, the radiator could be shot, after all it is 20 years old, and a replacement with all new hoses solves alot of problems. Easy check is to inspect the lower section of the radiator for corrosion, if the bottom is really corroded, almost a tale tell sign that the radiator is shot. As mentioned above, you can flush the heater core with a garden hose, after removing both heater hoses, this will flush out the settlement that has built up in it because of the vacuum disconnect in the hose line. This will help with more heat output in the cap. Here's a site that gives you a quick rundown on the cooling problems- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Coo ... gnosis.htm

You could just get a female flair connector at the parts store to connect the line. Best place I found for new cooler lines and seals is here, both for availably and price- www.rockauto.com

Also, go.jeep has a really good write up on changing the rear seal, with color pictures :D http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRearMain.htm

Yes, there are 4 bolts on each side of the transmission cross member. One bolt and one stud on the frame, and two bolts on the bracket inside the frame. You have and are using the correct transmission mount, there is a difference from the BA10 and the AW4 / AX15 mount.

If they're actual MJ taillights, YES. 2 X that!!! Just watch them on e-bay go for $50+ apiece and you'll be grabbing every one you see :brows:

Do check your front end, you could have some thing bad up front, even a bad wheel bearing. But is could be something as simple as a bad tire. If you can, rotate your tires and see if that could be causing the problem before you start rebuilding your front end. As you hit that speed range, your tires pick up a harmonic pattern, and that would show as shaking. Tires are not perfect, and one could be out of round, or out of balance. If you have 'death wobble' you will know it, and you wouldn't forget it :eek: