Wildman

Really sounds like your "Service guy" owes you a new oil pan. Who would be stupid enough to use a air wrench on the oil plug :nuts: As Johngus wrote, they do make a over size oil plug that cuts new threads as in goes on. Your "Service guy" blew out the treads on the oil pan using his air wrench :shake:

Check out this site, and this link, details on panel repairs ;) http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml

Yea, if you can get drums turned for $12, that's the way to go, IF there turnable??? I checked here - www.Rockauto.com And their Wagner & Raybestos are around $26 for each drum. {That's why I don't shop at Napa} Yes, replacing all the guts inside the drums is the best way to go, even the self-adjusters, the cable and lever. Then your done for some time ;) The best way I found to get a drum off, is to heat the drum, around the hub, even a propane torch will do the job, after a few minutes of heat, the drum will "pop" right off :brows: And take Pete's advice, if it's your first time, keep one side intact for reference. And have fun :D

There on the way :D

I should have a couple of the CPS screws here among all the parts, say the word and I'll sent you 1 or 2 you need. I have your address from the last time ;) Don't want to see you grinding down them "cheep" CPS's And this could be your NO start problem all along.

Kool.......New long johns from North Carolina :D And after I sleeped on this - I should have said "Contact Cleaner" not tuner cleaner :oops:

Yea, pretty much - Should be a GP Sorensen #LS69 About $14 Yea, and I like these 60* days for working outside too :D Today was the first day in 2 months I didn't need long johns ;)

No, it's Electrical cleaner, totally different from Carburetor cleaner. Click this - http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/crc/05018.jpg

The D35 will have 10 x 1.75 brake drums ( 10 x 2.5 are for D44 ) The reason your rear brakes are not working, could be from the "self-adjuster" not adjusting. And the shoes are not even near the drums to help with stopping power. Most places will not even machine drums any more, and the cost of new drums (about $26) are close to the cost to get them machined. Do get and install a complete hardware kit, with new springs and hold downs. But also check, clean and lube the self adjuster screws, and make sure there installed correctly. And the cable is working with the lever. Installing new E-brake cables is easy, it's getting the old one out that's the problem. But make sure your front cable is working, and not all corroded on the driver side floor. Other wise, your new rear cables will not work. I 2nd the replacement of the wheel cylinders, "while you got it apart" type thing, but as noted, you might be into replacing brake lines. But it the time to do every thing at once, and your done with it. The best thing it to take the rear wheels off, pull the drums and see what you got first, then head to the parts store, then you'll know just what you'll need to get-er-done.

Roger - Are your using the correct 'factory' shoulder bolts for the CPS?? There's got to be a problem that the CPS got ground down. With out going thru your total post, did you use the correct fly wheel??

That "goop" you found is dielectric grease, that's what you want in there. Once you take the rear driver tail light out, you'll find the body ground, check that the ring connector is not corroded, scrap off some paint and install a new larger sheet metal screw, and coat it with some dielectric grease. There's a connector about 6 inches from the rear bumper that's a problem too, take it apart, spray some tuner cleaner in it, if it's not all corroded, and apply some dielectric grease. At worst, the rear harness, from left tail light to right tail light has factory crimps for the wire pigtails, these also corrode, replace them with some 'B' caps, filled with dielectric grease. With the drawtite trailer hitch, I bet where the wires were spliced in for the trailer flat connector, those are corroded. While you have ever thing apart, it's a good idea to change out the bulbs, the brake/turn/tail lights take a 1157 bulb, and the back up lights take a 1156, and make sure the bulbs are installed in the lock socket correctly. Use dielectric grease in all the socket. Your dash light are off the head light switch, which turns, to dim the dash lights, and brighten them, and all the way to the left, turns on the dome lights, if your are working, most are not. At worst, replace the head light switch if your still having problems. Yes, the 4 way flashers will stop, when you step on the brake. As also suggested, replace the flasher, with a heavy duty flasher unit. If your still having problem, check the front running/turn lights, and replace the bulbs with new ones. Using tuner cleaner first, and pack some dielectric grease in the sockets. And if you just got the truck, Welcome to the world of J, E, E, P. Just Empty Every Pocket :D

Ah....Yea.....We all wish that :roll: Last one I bought thru Rockauto.com for around $90. Same year, 4.0 but w/ BA10. And it's make by Walker. The good news is, if your old one still has the guts to it, It's worth $25-35 at the scrap yard, So you do "re-coop" some of the $$'s spent. And don't forget to order the "gasket" that goes from the drop pipe > cat. It's an oval style gasket that's not in stock at a lot of parts places.

Circuit City is not commission based any more, haven't been for like 5 years now, not that I would know though :brows: Jonathan Thanks for correcting me, I knew a guy whom worked there, about 6 years ago, and one of the reasons he left the place. So, I read between the lines there, how you like working at Circuit City ;)

Gee......Thanks Don ;) And I'll second your motion on the Cat, very over looked item that causes odd problems. And easy to resolve. Another one of them 18-20 year old items that should be replaced.

Yes, the 4.0 water pump runs counter clock wise, I'm thinking the 2.5 is the wrong pump?? Correct me if I'm wrong. Check out this site, might help - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Coo ... gnosis.htm And just replace "Cherokee" with "Comanche" :D The timing is done thru the ECM, No adjustment on the timing, unless the distributor is in the wrong locating (gear wise, tooth off) Even thought you flushed the radiator, it could be plugged, and not cooling, and if it's 20 years old......well, could be time for a new one. Kind of one of them, spend $100 for a new one, and solve a lot of problems. The fan clutch could be shot, and not pulling air as it should too. Check out that link and see if anything helps your problem.

You hit all the "Retail" stores........Think "Wholesale" ;) If you can, check out Sam's Club and BJ's Wholesale (Yea, I know, there club membership stores, But I can get you in threw mine :D ) This Compaq I'm pecking away at I got at Sam's 4 years ago, with a 17" flat monitor for under $450. (and it's still going) Circuit City is on 'Commission' sales, So you kind of know how that works. CompUSA will be going out of business for the next 5 years (Sales pitch) Best Buy is all right for 'retail', but they have there secret sales if you go to their web site (The one that are being investigated now) I'm no techy, but from what I've heard, Emachine is the lowest of the low, in price and guts. I was alway told to stick with the major brands, like HP, Compaq, Sony. Some of the more tech people here could steer you to the better machines, or even an upgrade to what your running now. And if your a real dinosaur, and still running Windows '95.......well, yea, it's time to upgrade :roll:

Be cause of this.......J, E, E, P :D

I'll throw this out there, I know nothing about the 2.8 (except to stay away from them) But, how close is the starter to the exhaust pipes?? I've had this problem with Ford 302's and 351W's the starter is only an inch away from the right bank exhaust pipe, and it bakes the starters, yea, new one every year, and when the starter is hot after a long run, it don't want to spin as fast as when it's a cold start.

Cherokee is doing this on his MJ - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight= Couple little problems.......but it's working out for him ;)

Sure, why not, your just changing the RPM's of the output shaft from hi - low. The front of the 231 is sealed with the yoke in place, and would just spin free. I wouldn't think so, most of us run stock D35's with no problems, and in 4wd. I think once you go this far, you'll end up putting that D30 under the front and hook up the stock DS and be a full 4wd ;) That will be the only thing left to finish the conversion.

1bolt - Regardless of what you say, it still in one fine job :thumbsup:

Basically, to change from an BA10 to the AW4 (automatic) and keep it 2wd, you would need a 2wd, AW4. The shift linkage, TV cable, linkage at the throttle and mounting plate. TPS for the auto. Flex plate in place of the flywheel. The shifter lock out cable to the steering column, and the single brake peddle, if you want it correct. Also, the wiring harness for the automatic, both engine bay and dash, the ECM for the auto, and the auto's ECM. And a new drive shaft for the auto. And you would have 4.10 gears in the D35 now, and it should be 3.55 for the automatic. And to go thru all this, and having a donor sitting right there (the '88 XJ) I would do the complete conversion and make it 4wd, cause you have the 4wd AW4, 231, D30, go all the way and do the 4wd :brows: The only extra work would be to swap out the D30 for the straight axle, and you should swap out the D35 for the 3.55 gears. If you were closer, I have a 2wd AX15 sitting in the shop. That would make it real simple ;) And 2 - 2wd AW4's.

You mean the Automatic?? That will be the AW4.

:agree: It's a good chance the Camshaft position sensor is off, or the MAP. If this wasn't posted before, good source to double check all the sensors ;) http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Stay in there Roger......You'll get it :thumbsup:

Bacon - You're right, and Also it for a 1985 Comanche :teehee: So that makes it a very rare item. I just lost all my faith on e-bay again with a$$holes like this :shake: Most of us here know that tail light can be bought from $25-35, in that condition. and better ones sell for $50 tops. Kind of wants me to go clean out my parts, I think I have 3-4 pairs of tail lights :brows: