Wildman

Know I seen this some place, just had to find it - The good 'lunghd.com' has the step by step write up, with color pictures too :D http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Wiper.htm Have fun!!! I just re-did the washer hose last weekend, kept losing fluid, and no fluid up on the windshield :roll: Turn out that the hose was wore out and had a split in it. So, 5 feet of new hose, and the whole windshield gets hit now. You might want to replace your hose while your in there now, after all, 20 year old rubber is......well time for replacement????

The story I heard back in '76 was the Jeeps packed in grease, in a crate, some where in PA, and the guy was selling them for $75, So my friend and I ordered 20 of them, you had to buy at least 10 I think, and we waited, and waited, and still waiting for the order to be delivered :cry: We had the truck all lined up, and had the cash to buy them. But the order never came thru. Now this was long before this crazy computer thing, so what do you think......... Yea, big myth. But, here's a page you might be able to find them on ;) http://www.govliquidation.com/index.html Note: this is putting Charles meter to the test :D

I would @$$/u/me is does, I doubled checked - The 5th digit of the vin is the Powertrain- The 6th & 7th digit of the vin is the "body type"- 63 = Jeep Comanche - 4wd - 6' 64 = Jeep Comanche - 2wd - 6' 65 = Jeep Comanche - 4wd - 7' 66 = Jeep Comanche - 2wd - 7' And to complete the list on the 8th digit - The list you posted was for the 4001 - 5000 GVW For over 5001 - 6000 GVW (For Comanche) F = Comanche Base (MT/BT) F = Comanche - Custom (MT) R = Comanche Pioneer (MT/BT) U = Comanche Laredo (MT/BT) Note: there only one other vehicle on the 5001-6000 GVW list, and that a N = Grand Wagoneer/J10 Foot note: MT = Metric Ton and BT = Big ton Hope this help you find what "you" have, but I agree, what's been posted, any Comanche could be "Custom" ordered at the time, the window sticker I have for the '88 proves that.

Roger - I know I've seen that MJ some place ;) I think it sold on e-bay last week, and went for more than his asking price, I had it tagged, but took it off, anyone else see it?? Would have been a good priced project / finisher :D

:rant: That front end looks like something from the 40's like an Hudson or a Tucker front end :shake: Yup, I remember seeing several Chevy pickup dead on the road with the rear end several feet away from the truck :roll: Just a fancy grocery getter. Toss a unit of CDX ply in the back of that thing and see how it handles :brows: The cargo box storage is a good idea, when the wheel wells rot out, at least you can get to the back sides ;) The smart thing is to turn the glove box into a cooler to toss in something other than Coke in there :D And 2X on all the electronics, turn light bulb burns out, could cost you $1500 to get it replaced. No thanks, I'll stick with my 20 year old MJ and 14 year old Ford van.

Yea, ya fooled me ready :eek:

Don - I think we need to meet half way here.......you got the good rust free body's down there, I got the rusted out ones up here with 4wd :D Sound like a plan?? :brows:

Ah yea......2X on the XJ for a donor. But Don, I see your point, but in your case, find a early 90's XJ for $500+ and do the 4wd conversion to your MJ, your way ahead, dump the extra XJ parts, and get some $$ for the scrap body. Or even convert the XJ to 2wd with your left over parts. And save another MJ from being molested :D There are plenty of crashed / rolled / rodded out XJ's out there, for cheep. I think we all have seen the price on the MJ's jump in the past year. I for one like seeing the price rise on these, But I wouldn't pay that kind of $$ for one unless it's been gone thru, all seals replaced, top notch running condition, and none of this TLC BS needed. At least that's my plan with a couple in the herd, have them completely gone thru, road ready, and no surprises down the road. As far as a re-paint, we all know the clear coat is a problem with the jeeps, and if the guy did the proper prep work, and replaced sheet metal for patch panels, then that raises the value of the truck. And checking the body is important to see if it was done properly. I wouldn't be surprised to see this auction end early with the buy it now price.

And you wonder how JCW stayed in business all these years???? :shake:

Gee......A ComancheClub magnet card just found a new use :D I knew there was a reason you order them. In the add - "will tickle your Jeep Comanche lover bones when u see it in person." :jump:

Here's a link http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Browse?showCustom=0&tf=Browse&catalogId=10101&Nty=1&showAll=1&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&Ntt=boxside&N=111%2B200728799%2B1990%2B10101&storeId=10101&Ntk=AllTextSearchGroup Call first to see if its not an old ad. They show being able to get SWB and LWB ones. Freight sure isn't cheap thou.... :cheers: Aww......click on the "read the reviews" Guy had no problem fitting that panel on a 1980 Buick :teehee: :hmm: I think your right, better call first :yes:

Yea, I'm wondering if the Bud light bottle has something to do with the "new" over flow recovery??? :hmm: I don't ever remember seeing any allen head bolts for the thermostat housing?? Could be the PO did the same thing you had happen on the test drive.......bolt lost :dunno:

As always, make me an offer, I'm cheep :brows: And ask around here, you'll find that out. Yea, check out he dealer, and after you recover from the shock, drop me a line and I'll hook you up. But some times the dealer are not that bad. I have a few days in the shop his week, so I can dig them up and ship it out.

Check out with your dealer, I have a 'junk' D35 right in front of the shop I could pull some part off it for you if you need. Just drop me a note.

The X model was only for the '86 MJ, all chrome front trim, chrome bumpers front and rear. Couple of interior upgrade things that I can't remember right now. I pick up one last year just for the body, and dragged it 260 miles home. X model kind of common, was the "top" end model. There were only 2 engines that year, the 2.8 V6 and the 2.5 4cyl. Lots of problems with the 2.8 as you'll read in here. As far as what's it worth??? To me, if there's any rust on it, around $500-750 and that's if it's running. Not a runner as you wrote, $250-350, with minor rust. I offered a guy $250 1-1/2 years ago for a rust bucket, that had a Jasper replacement in it, non-running. He never came thru with the deal, I just wanted the lwb roll bar that it had :brows: The '86 X I bought last year, I bought on e-bay for $252 with the 2.5 motor pulled, and 2wd. Great PA body though. If he's asking a fair price for it, and the body is good, grab it, and do a 3.4 motor or a 4.0 conversion in it from a XJ donor.

I like Rock auto for general replacement parts, but some of the parts are as good and less at Advance Auto Parts store (Partsamerica). www.rockauto.com/ www.partsamerica.com/ Both of which you should not have a problem getting shipped to the Island. And that MJ is clean looking, and the price is right. Stay on it, it should be a good deal for you :D And Welcome to the Club :waving: a1awind - Great list, got it printed out :thumbsup:

Yea, but you beat me to the reply by 2 minutes.......I type s l o w. I agree, if the parking brake lever is missing, that's a dealer item or JY. Unless you know some one whom has a couple of D35's laying around :roll: Which I just happen to have laying around :brows:

I'll second Dirty's weight. I have a striped long block in the shop, and I can't pick it up :eek: But for shipping, that varies too on what you ship it with, weight of the pallet, or box needs to be added.

Here, try this link, has Very Detailed "brake" down ;) http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm If the parking brake lever is missing, that might be a problem, I don't think thats a off the shelf item.

Well that good to hear :D So, your not going to burn it, and I can't buy it off you for scrap price :roll: I'll have to "quote" JTDesign here------K.I.S.S. :jump: Roger- glad to hear you got it up and running, it's running rough now, how fresh is the gas in the tank??? Your MJ's been sitting couple months now right??? The Ballistic resistor you need is- GP Sorensen #GCR7 And Glad I could help you out :brows:

I'm North of Pittsburgh :D Oh, you want some one near to you. But I'm only 200 miles away ;)

PM's sent :D

Here, check out this site, I believe, Lead -not - follow kinked this up http://www.rol.ac.psiweb.com/jeep/ Just click on the XJ '88 link, and look for the FSM for the area you need to trace down. Were all not sitting here with a manual or the wire diagrams in front of us ;)

JT - Yup, that about sums it up. :jump:

Drop me a PM, and I'll tell you how to get the ignition unlocked with out the locksmith showing up :roll: