Wildman

Some thing for you to do when your not :wrench: on the MJ http://www.coasttocoastam.com/timages/p ... n_sim.html

Whowey - Thanks for the heads up on Rock Auto, I was just going to place an orded for some parts, I think I'll stick with Advance Auto for now. :thumbsup:

If you can get a MJ for $300, Clear title and its close to home, and good interior, Grab it :brows: Its got to be almost rust free from NC, Paint condition? Clear coat pealing, still grab it. There are alot of 2.5 around, even from a XJ that will bolt right in, and you've done some wrenching before, Like Pete said, pick up some equipment, new/used, rent and get to work. Good excuse to get the other tools you always wanted. I've swaped engines in Ford vans before, and that got to be the worst job, half in/half out, 2 inches under the firewall :headpop: Good luck and keep us informed :thumbsup:

I'm surprised that your not going to try to save the '88, But then again I know you said it has some rust out issues. Save it, swap in that 4.0 you have laying around and convert it to 4wd. You know I got a donor coming. Great winter project :brows: Or can I expect to be hearing from you on any left over parts ;) I have a set of 31" if you decide to add a lift kit.

Man, I read that 3 times before I figured out what you were saying :teehee:

I'm sure most every one heard that Buffalo area got socked last Thursdays / Friday. I never even got a chance to get the '88 MJ ready for plowing- The pile of bush is tree tops where the truck is usually parked, good thing i moved it Thursday night- 24 inches of snow, No problem for a MJ- And picking up the mess, just raking up the leaves with the branches still attached- Saturday, the Sun came out, temps up to 55 degrees, and most of the snow was melted, and by Sunday, almost no snow anywheres. What a weekend. My power was out for 2 days, and no cable for 3 days, so late posting this. About 1/3 of this area is still with out electric, and the mass cleanup in taking place. Time to start thinking about a warmer climate, and this is only October :roll: Wildman

Gas fresh?? or are you running it with the gas in the tank thats been sitting for the past 6 months?? If so, add fuel Stabilizer, and some dry gas. If it still won't stay running, change out the fuel filter, then do the wires and plugs.

:eek: WOW :eek:

Boiler - How long did you have the Mj on the jack stands?? and when was the last time you started it, that it ran?? If you had it sitting for couple for months, even 2 months, the gas might have gone bad, if you take off the gas cap, and it smells like Varnish, thats bad gas. You can save some trouble by adding Fuel Stabilizer to the gas in the tank, but still change out the filter. Let the Stabilizer sit over night, and see if it will start and run.

JOMJ87 - I got two diffrent CD's from e-bay, one was listed as a Jeep Parts Manual Which is not bad, but lists just the Factory parts numbers, Good referance if anything, and runs thru Adobe and the second was listed as "Jeep Service Manual" which turn out to be a Chilton Jeep manual on CD :cry: Both around $10, So give it a try, it might be the true Service Manual, But they sell on e-bay for 35 plus. Keep us posted.

comanche Tom - Nice fine, and good price for both MJ's I see I'm not the only one that goes thru the truck and get's everthing repaired, and keep it stock ;) And welcome to "TheClub"

CW - I measured the rims from the low side (flat) of the rim, not the high or outer edge as you showen in your picture, I measured wrong?? if so, that would make a 1/2" differance? Thanks for correcting me. Thanks for that info on the Ford Ranger rims, I know this would give another option for replacement rims. I changed out the steel stock rims, with mis match tires, to the 5 spoke with good tires to try to solve the DB problem, and yesterday, I did a 140 mile trip and NO DB at any speed, But I still need to get the front end alignment checked out. But other projects are on the forefront now.

Pete - nice looking Stock MJ I have these same 5 spokes that I'm running on the '89, and they rub on the LCA in a tight turn, I had one off today, and checked the Back set, and it was 5", and I do beleve they are 7" wide rims, I doubled checked a stock steel rim and the BS in 4.5", and now I know why they rub, have 235's on both.

Just in case anyone was wondering, no that's not me he's referring too. :D It's not you??? Well it should be ;) We all know that you have many irons in the fire, and adding another task for you to handle would just add to the many adventures that you have going :brows: I'm glad that JpEditor has joined in there, there may be some good coming out of all of this. Major Recognition for the ComancheClub and the MJ. :yes: :popcorn:

JpEditor - It is commendable that you join us here, and reply to our concern an this article. I would agree with your statment that most other magazines do not even write articles concerning the MJ. I thank you for this effort :clapping: So, I'll say, hang around for some time, pick up some info here, and enjoy the little corner of the web we have here, as MJ owners. Very agreeable that mistakes happen, that's why we have this - :wall: And keep Pete M more in your scope of work :thumbsup:

My opinion about the miss spelling has been sent, plus- I realize that you, as a magazine publisher need to fill some articles of interest between the pages of advertising, I would think that your proof readers could have at least noticed the miss spelling of the name Comanche. I like to add a little zinger here and there :brows: And Alex, yes, I think you could write a detailed article on the MJ, better than the author of that article, that can not spell COMANCHE.

Eagle - Thanks for correcting me there, it is wired paralled, I'm doing too many door controllers, and there all wired in series, dry contacts. And I didn't know that the flasher were in controll of the burned out bulb. Good info. But I only replaced with heavy duty flasher units, just seams to solve problems, and I know that is what is needed for a trailer hook up.

Glad to hear your son is OK, but we all know shtt happens. Don't know about an estimate, but I would be looking for a XJ as a doner, if its all front end damage, direct swap in. From what '86 thru '95 XJ. The cost of the XJ with blowen motor, or just shot should be $200 -$400 and then sell off the rest of the parts from the rear end. That will give you the other little parts that you might need to get it back togetter. If you were closer to me, I'm tearing down a '93 XJ, 2wd now. I picked it up for $200, 76K on the clock, and already sold off the rear hatch, and some other parts.

Apparently, you have never seen a vehicle from New York, So your missing out on a lot, like alot of sheetmetal still clinging between the rusted out spots :teehee: I think your right, if someone walked up to you and asked about selling it, and there not hanging around this board, then $1700 is a good number, and he talks you down, then you walk away with what you wanted. Check this out first http://jeep.autoextra.com/model/comanche And you will see what dealers, and private are asking, and you might want to up it a little, close to home, no cross country trip to get a MJ, for the buyer.

Comanche Joe - utt oh.........sounds like you got bit by the Comanche Bug :eek: Yea, these darn things seam to grow on you, and it is very hard to get them removed. I don't think that they came up with a medical solution for it eather. Anyways, welcome, and great find there sounds like some of the work has been done, and it just looks like surface rust on the body, I think your looking for the term "rattle can" paint job, which will work out just fine for a quick touch up. I've never heard of anyone using Naval jelly on the rust, might work, lets us know. If you can get your hands on a right angle grinder with a wire wheel, even brass wire, that cleans up rust spots really fast, and you can blend into the painted areas with it, Also you can get a sander disk for it for the bondo work. And whats with this "subculture of people" :laughin: I kind of like that ;)

As others have said, Replace the flasher unit, at the fuse box, do both, and get the heavy duty type flasher, couple of bucks more. There both the same, and you can switch them to see if this helps the problem. If you took the rear lights out, check the Ground at the drivers side, even replace the screw in a new spot, in the sheet metal, weak lights = bad ground, lights not working correctly = bad ground. The worst thing is if you took out the bulbs in the rear, that one of the sockets might be bad, and back feeding thru the running lights, also the factory idea of wire conectors is not that great, just a crimp installed in the line and that could be corroded and = a bad connection. Pete has mentioned before about the plug connector that on the drivers side, about 6-8 inchs in from the bumper, and this should be looked at also. The back up lights are a totally diffrent circuit, and not tied into the stop lights or turn signals, and runs off a 7 amp fuse at the top of the fuse box,which took me 2 days to find. :headpop: And yes the bulbs are wired kind of in series, so that if one bulb burns out, it will show in the guage cluster (turn signal) to let the driver know something is wrong. And the rear tail light bulbs should be #1157, clear.

Good point Pete

Boiler - I would guess that you might have bumped the fuel pump resistor, White porcelain conector, about 3" long, with 2 orange wires on each end, this is right above the air cleaner, and controlls curent to the fuel pump. and if you are cranking and will not start, the fuel is not getting to the rail. Check this out first, Advance auto parts have this in stock if yours is shot. Good luck ;) Pete M supplyed the picture, we had this coulpe of weeks ago Hope you don't mind me posting your picture of this Pete :bowdown:

:rotfl2: :laughin:

aemsee - Nice little write up on the tech side there, Good info, Thanks for posting it :thumbsup: