Wildman

Your back up lights come off the NSS (Gear Selector Switch), that shows on the digram I posted. The brake lights feed thru the turn signal switch, that's why I'm thinking you might have a problem in there?? For your front turns, do you have the correct bulbs installed?? In the correct position?? Like I said in the beginning, it's going to take time to track down the problem, the good news is your not paying a electrical shop $75 hour to track down the problem ;) Your other post wrote you needed a new rear harness, yea, if you can find one??? If you have not, start pulling it apart and look for the metal crimps, and check them out / replace them. Still waiting to hear what shape your sockets are in????

'89 stock sportruck, Non-running, with typical rust........$250 tops. Only because it has the 4.0, 4wd. You want to pass it on, I'll run down 219 and pick it up :D

Figured that much, like I said, you don't know what some else did to the wiring :roll: Thats your left turn single wire. I've attached the wiring diagram for the rear lights, should help you out. When you replaced all the bulbs, did you check the sockets too, were they corroded, or have any "green" on the terminals?? thats a show sign that there a problem with the socket. You should take each circuit and trace it down, one at a time, like get the brake lights working first, then the turn signals......and so on, this will create less of a mess, than just replacing everything. In the start, you said your front lights were working correct, just problems with the rear lights?? Now your blowing fuses in the dash lights?? That could be the start of the light switch going/being bad, or the turn single switch having a short in the steering column. Lets get the rear lights fixed first, and then back up to the dash light.

My thought was the mounting bolts were "pressed" in the manifold :dunno: Every thing is so corroded around here :cry: I've replaced them using a 'hot wrench' and installed 3/8" x 2" Grade 8 bolts. And had no problems, well except from burning from below :roll:

Totally agree with you Eagle ;) But as a cost effect way XJ tail pipe ($13+/-) and a MJ tail pipe ($48+/-) couple of extension pipes ($3) and a few extra clamps, not having the tail pipe kosher. What's available, well, anything can be 'made to work' (Most times) :roll:

The Comanche tail pipe dumps out the side, behind the right rear tire. The Cherokee tail pipe runs straight out to the rear bumper. It can be used to save some $$, but I think an extension needs to be added to the tail pipe to clear the bumper. That is if you have a short wheel base. Long wheel base, you also need an extension at the muffler to clear the axle.

Man.....you got me convinced on them termites :jump: How true :yes:

Oh Boy....good guest what some one else did, running that black wire :dunno: Best to get a test light on it first to see what it does, or if some one added a ground wire. The OME harness has crimps in the line to part off the different lights, I've found that, and best to take the crimps out, use B-caps with die-electric grease packed in them for a replacement. I could dig thru the parts shelf and I think I have a '87 harness some place. But I would fix your first, would be easier, and you'll know what you'll have too when your done ;) It's a little time consuming, so going to a electrical shop could run up some$$$$ :eek:

See, ya jinked it :roll: Man, I bet you were surprised to find that problem :eek: Good thing you checked it right away :thumbsup:

Yea, plowing takes it's toll on any truck :cry: I know, I plow too :roll: But the last few years, I've been using a stick (and hate it) But you are having a problem with the tranny fluid getting too hot, and what was said is happing. Do add a transmission cooler to the system, and before you add more fluid, drop the pan, change the filter and fill up with fresh New fluid. The AW4 takes a lot of beating, but with any auto trans, the heat kills them. I agree with CW on the air flow, I just use it around town, and it only takes me 5 minutes to drop the plow and hit the road if I'm doing a long trip, plus why drive around on a sunny day with the 360# plow on the front :nuts: But the Comanche is the best plow truck I've used, I can turn around in a 2 wide driveway with out a problem, try that with a full size truck :D

Guest you'll never know until you try ;) It's not a major project, like swapping the engine, but there are a lot of parts you need to swap over. I guest you should look over the donor first, pull the dash out and see all the parts that need to be swapped, and then decide what you want to do. With having the donor on hand, it would make it easier, as you can pull the complete heater box out, and swap it over. Plus, you can pull everything off the donor, and you'll know what you need to do to your '88 to install all the parts needed, and have less down time on your '88 ;)

Yea, sounds like a bad ground. Pull the left (driver's) side tail light and check the body ground. Also check the connector at the rear left side, about 6 inches in from the bumper, clean and use die-elect grease in the connection. Those are the easy, first step to the repair. Also pull the lights out, clean all the sockets with contact cleaner, and coat the sockets with die-elect grease. Make sure you install the bulbs correctly, and check the bulbs that the filaments are good, or replace the bulbs.

Yea, like he crossed the wrong person and got his browser broke :thwak: Glad to hear whom it is, Now the rest of us know not to deal with him.

You also want to make sure you have the correct gears in the front axle (D30 ) that match your rear axle (D35?) other wise you'll have a major problem with the T-case binding up, and blowing it up :eek: Also spent some time with the donor Axel, like BLHTAZ saids, open it up, and check all the bearings and seals, and it's a good idea to replace the seals at this time. Also check the ball joints, and just go thru the axle and make sure it's going to be trouble free after you install it ;)

:drool: :drool: :drool: Wow :eek: A stock '89 Eliminator, that is pure $#*& Me think you got the right idea there, It's well worth what you'll have in your pocket, and a lot more on the open market :brows: Good luck on the buy Don, and I hope you tell them what a nice loving home you'll give their baby :D Might even get the price down to the rock bottom :yes:

I have connections all over :brows: Except in Wisconsin :roll: (read the first post here from JT :D )

So whom has lived in NY forever????? :dunno: :hmm: I know I've lived and worked in other state, even states south of the Mason-Dixon line ;) Dukes is GOOD, in fact I had some Yesterday :D Miracle Whip is more of a "Salad Dressing" But still my favorite ;) So now we just need to figure out a pipe line to get some more Dukes mayo up here :brows: Just wait until you get that jar of Weber's, then you can do a poll on mustards :yes: And.....Yea, I guest CC is slow right now :teehee:

I have sold / traded a lot of parts here with other members, But my policy is, you don't sent the $$ until you receive the parts, and there the correct parts. Maybe I'm just 'old school' But I've only had problems a couple of times, and things got worked out. People that forget to sent me the $$ get a nice reminder from me, and then are taken off my Xmas card list :D In other words, don't ask me for any more parts. AZ highdesert - In your case, sent the person one more e-mail, tell them if correspondence is not made, you'll take this matter to the next level. And the next level is to call them out here, and explain what you bought, how much, and how long you been waiting. I for one want to know whom not to deal with, as I'm sure other's would want to know too. If that person wants to keep his/her creditability here, they will respond to you. Your kind of on your own here, but not really, Eagle has posted what other actions you can take, and yes, you will get response with that action. But be prepared to have some back up with that action (dates, postmarks, receipts....ect.) If by chance you paid with Paypal, you also have them to help you get your $$ back, slow process, but still helps. I'm sure the person your dealing with is reading this thread, and will respond to you, and if not, well, we all want to know, and can deal with them in our own way.

And not in a 2wd ether. Unless some one transplanted something else in there before you got it. Check your Vin, the 5th place letter will be - G - 4-auto, column shift (2wd) U - 4-auto, floor shift (2wd) And the 4-auto = AW4 transmission. The above is for 1987-88. And how do you like owing a truck that's older than you :D

I think this link will give you what your looking for, check it out ;) http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

I for one would not miss the "power sellers" at all. After a bad experience with a power seller, and nothing resolved for the junk they were selling, I'll be glad to see it go back to the smaller, individual sellers. We all see the same sellers, selling the same parts over and over, with ridicules shipping and handling charges, I for one don't even look at or bid on there items. Maybe it's time for a change to rid some of the less scrupulous seller out of e-bay, and put some creditably back into the legitimate sellers.

mfpdm - That '90 you posted in Norfolk looks really good, good price on it too, if the mileage is low, has the 4.0 and 4wd, I wouldn't let a little common wheel well rust hold me back ;) You can exterminate the termites with a little sheet metal and paint :brows:

WahooSteeler- Now you got a good point there - But a truck like that, could only be your's, if you offered a 50 pound block of 'Rusty' Cheddar :D Yup, I'm going to have to re-evaluate the one '89 I have in the fleet, Has the metric ton package on it, with the D44, "Now this is a one of a kind, Custom, 2 ton pulling package, with high / low range that can carry full size logs out of the woods, going up and over the mountains, and has all the sheet metal on the sides of the box, so the logs don't fall out" :D That would make sense, manure sure eats metal like that :brows:

Don't let a little drive hold you back :driving: I've went as far as 7 hours one way to get a good rust free "Southern" PA truck last year :nuts: As you wrote in another message, "the metal eating termites" are really bad up here :teehee:

:teehee: I see a lot of them around here :rotf: Great description on that add, I wonder if he hired one of them 'writer' that are on strike??? But I can't figure out this, "used once a week" "started with a jump box" But the truck has not been inspected since 3/05. We have annual inspections here in NY, so in my book, that's been off the road for at least 2 years :hmm: WahooSteeler - That's closer to you, than me, offer him $300 tops :yes: