Wildman

There is no "after market" tail lights for the MJ. The OEM tail lights have not been made since 1992. But, you might want to PM Cherokee, I do think he just added the LED sockets and bulbs to his tail lights, and I think he used some Chevy socket :dunno:

JT, I'm glad you noticed that :roll: Let alone even said anything about it. (Glad I'm not the one that's going to get put in a head lock :eek: )

So........Mr. Aemsee........I take this as your new project :D Or at least double your $$$ with the parts :brows: :huh???: :eek: :shake: Do you think you will have a hard time getting that '91 V-6 separated from the 4.0 bell housing :hmm: :rotfl2: And yes, there are some very stupid adds on Craigslist, seen my share of MJ's with 4.0 V-6's :doh:

:eek: Taz...........You got your 15 minutes of fame now........ :thumbsup: Or was not riding your bike enough exercise for the day :hmm: Anywho.........Nice job, I guest you thinking about it now, but the way the story plays out, the guy would not be in the hospital tonight, well, not in a bed at least. :clapping:

It was.......... After I came out of the cave........I became the Wildman :D Didn't you every hear........."It's so simple, even a Caveman can do it"

Some times........missing the news is a good thing :D Not being connected to the outside world is a good thing, too some times :D gee.........I feel like moving back into the cave :hmm:

So........the news starving for news????? :shake: :bs: Question is........if it was a regular cab pick-up ( which it don't say ) How do ya get 5 people in the cab :hmm: And not one of them want to get out after 15-30 minutes :hmm: :shake: Thanks for enlightening my day :D

Only thing I've ever heard of is to add on a torque converter lock - http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAutoSwitch.htm

Man.......it didn't take you long to get over that....... :teehee: Lets see........your here a year less than me, and 2-1/2 X's my post count :hmm: I'll agree with ya again, even thought the newbies posting on just the classified is down slightly, there still there. And.......the "Poster" that Boilermaker makes mention, is the same poster that most of us got erased from, and has a total of 6 posts, all on the same classified add :roll: and no other posts on the entire board. Yes, there are some "newer" members that only join the board to get the benefits, of being a member, but I still agree, that alot of ppl over the years, joined, listed something up for sale, very uncooperative with members, sold there 'item' and never to be heard from again :roll: Not that I'm mentioning the "I don't give the Vin out" guy :roll: A few of us put a lot of time in here, we 'try' to answer other's question, or pass on advice, or throw a joke here and there.........and then the new guy joins, throws up an add for the one of a kind '89 MJ, and just don't want to provide additional info, don't answer his (or hers') PM's, and just more :bs: to weed thru :fs1: I'm thinking like this........Any classified add that's posted, if it don't meet the Rules, have a Mod give One (1) warning, and 24 hours to correct it, then it's deleted, and if the person is serious about the add, they will read the rules, make the corrections, and re-post. Don't matter if it a new member, or a member with 20,000 posts. This way, we do see something that is unique to our hobby, It don't scare the "newbie" away, or posting a bunch of garbage to get the post count up to meet a quota. It keeps the "used car dealers" away and gives the Mod's some control over the classified adds that don't even belong here. I did something the other day, that I usually don't do, and that was to give some info on a problem to a "newbie".........I just kept reading his post, and the problems he was having, and no one was steering him in the right direction.....he was changing out parts all over......so I tossed out some info, some links, and later that day he solved the problem. No, I'm not looking for anything, but for some time, I stopped tossing out info to the less than 10 post count ppl, because they either didn't get it, what to do, or just got there problem solved, and never to be heard from again :roll: Same reason I will not sell any parts to a low count poster..........I'm still waiting for payment from a "newbie" since October........for a part that he just had to have :headpop: I'm done

Your best site to find cheap XJ's is Craigslist. and try this site, you can choose how far you want to travel, and price range too. http://www.searchtempest.com/ That's the "master" Craigslist search tool :brows:

:needpics: some one had to do it..... :teehee:

:hmm: I don't know......... I got really busy this past winter, and wasn't on much, and they sent the Search and Rescue MJ out for me :D But, Glad ya dropped in :wavey:

Here.......I just looked this up on Rockauto.com - '86 2.5 engine. Timing chain Kit. CLOYES Part # 94023S Includes: Cam, Crank, Chain, Tensioner, Damper $46.89 http://info.rockauto.com/Cloyes/DetailR ... -4023S.jpg And don't forget this - FEL-PRO Part # TCS45458 {Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve} OHV engine; Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve; w/Sleeve 'N' Seal® $15.40 But, like I said, I would check the timing marks on the harmonic balancer first to see how close they are. Thats if you can. And.......here's a 5% discount code for ya..... 1873533514609 ...good until 8-16-2009. Just the guide is $8.13, but all the work to get to it........change the whole kit and be done ;)

Here's the AP story from our local paper = http://www.buffalonews.com/nationalworl ... 08143.html And a local story that "spells" out the requirements, where Most ppl don't qualify - http://www.buffalonews.com/home/story/706996.html The way I read it.......if you turn in your old gas hog, if it qualifies, then the Junk Yard HAS to remove the engine and transmission and destroy it, not the whole vehicle. I like how this bill was added to the $106 billion war spending bill :dunno: Does this mean the Fed's at Government Motors want a war with the old gas hogs, just to sell there cars :hmm: I'm not worried about parts, you shouldn't either, not alot of people are going to use this voucher :roll:

Alright :banana: :thumbsup: OK........Now, take a step back, look at your posts on the first page of your topic here, and......in the words of the famous JTdesigns ........K.I.S.S. In other words, finding something simple to repair, save you from tearing the whole thing apart :D

here's some Mr. Lunghd info to get you started / oriented - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... straps.htm http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... cation.htm http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip Their should be a alternator lead (charge wire about 10ga wire) going to the starter switch post, and the positive lead (about 8ga wire) also on the same post. Thats where there "tied" together to feed the accessories / power the truck with positive power. Check this out - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13863&hilit=alternator+replacement That is the starter switch (relay) so you know what your looking for :D

Sureshot - So, I hear rummer last week that your in the area.........and then my 'helper' tells me his cousin is on your "Pit" crew :eek: I hear your looking for the above, and........a new windshield. Call me, I got a windshield for you :D My shop is in Depew, I have parts, but not any 2.5 parts :( But, I think we can change that in time. PM me and I'll pass on my phone # and shop location. And don't even think of cutting that perfect bed :fs1:

OK.......the additional info helped. Solve one problem at a time. If your lites are not going on, and you have a fully charged battery, then the "power" from the battery is not reaching the truck, that would be via the cables from the battery. Check the negative (ground) at the motor block. Check the body/engine ground strap. Pull the plastic cover off the + & - cables and look directly at the cables. I have a pair of cables in the shop that I pulled from a parter, the cable insulation is complete gone, and the wires are half corroded. That plastic wrap cover "hides" any defects on the cables. If needed, replace the 2 cables. Note that the positive cable also has a 'lead' that feeds the starter switch. Make sure that is on the new cable. If you have any type of cable clamps on the cables now, get rid of then, only use OEM style cable clamps (factory crimped style) Now, this should have your lites working. First problem solved. If your lites are working, then the accessories should turn on when you turn the key. If not, then we'll deal with that, and that would show a problem with the key switch. If you have a multi meter, or a test light, turn the key to the "on" and check for voltage at the ignition switch. You said you replaced the ignition switch, but you never said if you have any voltage at the switch?? Try the above items first, the cables, and then "report" back here ;) Yes, electrical problems are a Pita, and with the 12vdc systems, and all the negative feeded switches, it makes it more complicated :doh: I work with alot of 12vdc and 24vdc in door controllers, and the one service rep I need to call once in a while saids it best........."90% of the problems are in the wiring" .....which is true, you can have the polarity reversed on a relay, and nothing works :headpop:

I've been kind of sitting back watching this post. First........we need more info on the truck your working on........Like, Year, engine, auto or manual tranny, post all the specs. Second........The ECU has nothing to do with the cranking of the engine, only after the starting of the engine, it control the timing and plus of the injectors, oh and a few other things :roll: I don't believe the ECU is fused. Maybe internally. The ECU can get fried, if the (+) and (-) are reversed. You write that "when you turn the key, nothing happens" If you pull the light switch, do the lights come on?? This is separate from the ignition switch. If NO accessories come on when you turn the key, like the radio or the heater fan don't come on, then you have a problem with the ignition key switch. I read that you replaced the ignition starter switch, but if the rod from the key to the lower switch is not working properly, thats a start of your problem. The more I looked over your post, the more I think theres a problem with your wiring, between the ignition switch and the starter relay.

Yes you did :yes: You dodged a big bullet with just punching a hole in the oil filter :thumbsup: Lets see........oil filter $5.........oil pan and gasket $120 :doh:

Yea, and he's from Rhode Island, not Kentucky :dunno: So in other words its safe to say she's not his cousin?? :teehee: Yea........something like that....... :roll: Good thinking......... :rotf:

That's what the OP asked..........For Flat Towing. That's what my reply was.......For Flat Towing. Wheres the tow dolly come in :dunno:

Are you asking questions about a '86 with a 2.5 engine ( l4 )?? If you are, you might need a new fuel injector, not the complete throttle body. Although a JY TB might be cheaper that the fuel injector :hmm: Pulling a 1000# trailer with a 2.5, No Way. There only enough power to move the truck it's self. The 1 and only 2.5 I had, most of the time I didn't even use 5th gear on the flat highway. Up a steep grade, was 2nd gear and maybe 30 MPH, with an empty truck :ack:

Transfer case in Neutral. Tranny in 1st gear. (with the drive shafts attached)

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16305&p=164517&hilit=bed+removal#p164517 this the thread/pic your talking about? there is also another pic at the bottom of that page Yea, that's a better picture of the bolt locations, I did my drawing for something else, and measured the locations, for reference, and if you count the X's, there are 8 of them, 4 studs and 4 bolt holes.