Wildman

:agree: And March is getting near the end of the run of MJ's :( If you really look around, and search really hard, you might find one in "perfect" shape, and expect to pay $3500+ for it, or read that one topic where someone looked for 18 months to find his MJ :roll: Buy it now, and over look the minor items, as long as the frame is not rotted out, and it's running, it's a keeper ;)

I'll agree that the engine you have is worth about $200 - $300, around this area. Down south I've heard there worth a little more, for low mileage engines. Of course........with all the C4C vehicles, I expect the price to start climbing up :roll: I remember 3-4 years ago, a 2.5 was going for $600+, now you can find them for $200 around here. Call your local junk yard, and see what there pricing out 4.0's for and base your asking price on that, of course, you'll have to be lower that a JY on price, unless you want to give it a warranty on the sale.

Me think the OP is looking for a direct bolt in :hmm: If the OP would look to the left, and see how most of us have a "location" filled in, he would get someone whom is near him to offer a D35 with 3.07's near him :roll: (If your near me, I have several :brows: ) The D35C rear end is Not a "C" clip, which Mr. Hornbrod brought up, the "C" stands for "Custom" as in custom made for the OEM. And yes, it was '91 that the c-clip D35 show up. It would be a great time for an up-grade, even to 3.55 gears, but, that would also mean to replace the D30 with matching gears. And as others pointed out, there's alot of extra work to replace the axles with ones from an XJ.

If the Nut is missing off the crank, Don't start / run /drive the truck, if the HB comes off, besides a flying missile, you have a very good chance to snap the crank shaft :eek: Also, there is a seal on the timing chain cover that might need replacement if your leaking that much oil, and the time to change it is when the HB is off.

:offtopic: Cheech, I don't think you started anything, it just evolved to that :roll: Seen how I personally know Mr. mvusse :D He can sometime get confused over how some Americans act, and that I understand. I'm thinking his statement was more or less poking fun at lawyer's :teehee: As far as pulling someone out of a ditch, all the fore mentioned statements are true, and I know someone that was sued over pulling someone out of a ditch, and that's why alot of us don't do it for free, or don't do it at all. I know several tow truck operators, and here in NY they have to have a special permit and special license on the tow truck, that "proves" that they carry the proper insurance, that cost about $125 per week, yea, that's over 6 grand a year to operate a tow truck :eek: Now, back to topic at hand.......... OK.......I under stand that your working outside, and on soft ground, I was just making a point that once you get the engine ready to pull, or up and out, the truck would be to high, and you really can't just "roll" the truck off the ramps. Another point is........if your on soft ground, how do you plan on moving the cherry picker around??? At worst, you could lay down some plywood and keep the hoist on the plywood sheet, but you'll run out to room real quick on that item. Is there any place around the farm that is paved, or hard stoned to work on :dunno: And, as I was proofing this.......it came to me........Your using the John Deere to pull the engine :doh: So, I guest you don't need to worry about moving the hoist around :oops: Most farms I know have a "farm shop" to work on equipment :brows: And yes, I've pulled alot of engines by myself :D

Pulling from the front axle in not a problem, after all.......you have upper and lower control arms (4 of them) holding the axle in place. I've pulled many MJ's up on car dollies and car haulers from the axle, you just don't want to pull from the sway bar or drag link :no: So.......I can see why you had to get the front end off the ground, but........how are you going to get it back down when your ready to pull the engine :hmm: I mean, your OK with the car ramps, but you should really have a floor jack and jack stands for this type job, where you can lift the front, and drop it back down in the same spot. Are you pulling the engine and tranny as a unit, or separate?? Oh, and for future reference.........check This out :brows:

Hey aemsee......... Have a great time at the convention in Detroit :banana: :teehee: And, Ya think the "new" company would be celebrating all the great news the industry has now :roll:

Not a typo. Brain fatigue. I saw it wasn't a B10 and 'assumed.' And we all know what that means. The engine and tranny weren't together. Didn't really look that close to see what's what. Tomorrow's another day. Check things out mor e closely. Brain fatigue again???? I didn't write that, mvusse did :teehee: Better go get you one hour less sleep tonight :D

I'll 3 X's that :D I've seen it before, take a good hard look at the harmonic balancer, it should be flush with the inter bell / outer pulley, with NO rubber sticking out. If it's not flush, time for a replacement.

You should not be shooting any brake fluid out of the MC reserve when you apply the brakes. The reserve is there to "supply" fluid to the lines, sounds like it's applying pressure in the wrong direction :eek: What are you running for the distribution valve, a stock MJ one, or did you swap it out with an XJ Proportioning valve?? Do you still have the stock rear load leveler in place?? It could be the lines, but if there collapsed internally, then your more than likely to have the calipers locking up, and not releasing.

:rotfl2: Sounds like you got alot of parts for the $$$...... So the next thing is......... :needpics: Just of the MJ.......No mug shots are needed :roll:

With little or no rust.........Yea, that's a very fair price :yes: Just look on e-bay for what any MJ is selling for, and the little "item's" you mentioned that need repair / replaced, you'll see for your self ;) Wish I could find a '92.......that's the only year I don't have.........yet :headpop:

I generally pull one of the intake manifold bolts out, upper rear, and replace it with a longer bolt to hook the chain to the engine for a pull. You really don't want to pull just off the intake manifold, but with a chain just up against it is not a problem.

Read thru this topic - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16750&hilit=painting Mr. philbert001 toss's out alot of info for you ;) And also for tips and to answer some questions.........check out this web site - http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml There is nothing wrong with learning how to paint your own truck, at worst, it comes out so-so and you live with it, or so bad, that you need to re-paint it, but.......spent the time to learn some tips, do one panel or door first, and get a feel for spraying, and it could turn out to be a perfect paint job your first time :D Yea, most auto painters are Neanderthals and think there too good to do work for you, and radder sit home and search for the bottom of a bottle, kind of the same class I put elevator installers in :roll:

Now that was not a stupid question :roll: Interesting thought though :hmm: So, in RHD country's, there always scouting out for LHD vehicles, where we take it for granted :D Could you have come up with the solution that Toyota needs :idea: There putting the gas pedal on the wrong side and the floor mats are making it stick :doh: :teehee:

Be interesting to see what the asking price is on that FSJ is, seen how the "re-conditioned" ones bring hugh $$$$$ Sure is nice and clean.........and original ;)

:eek: If you really want a new CRL rear slider, drop me a PM, I'll have a better price for you ;) But note, they only have the dark tint available now, and about 34 in stock, (17 in LA)

And PM'ed back at ya ;)

So........you got the "true", 'Little old lady owned it, that only drove the MJ to church on Sunday' truck :hmm: :teehee: It does look super clean..........Nice fine :thumbsup:

If you can wait a couple days, I can load up some pictures of a OEM bumper I pulled apart and "re-built" about 1-1/2 years ago, I just don't have all the pict's loaded in this 'puter. Example -

CW - Now that was a good e-mail :yes: Thanks for posting that one.......need to pass that one along ;)

I hope Chrysler don't plan on using that for a new commercial :doh: Rob - Look at the list of videos and look for "Driver goes over roads, yards" (5:19) Too much :chillin: for that guy :shake:

:agree: That about says it all, plus when you Do-it-yourself, you catch the little extras that most shops don't bother with, like didn't the OP have a engine swapped, and the mechanic left in old crapped out battery cables :roll:

No MJeff..........that's 3 housed down, and the man is a plumber and works out of that garage ;) And I only rent a 2nd floor apartment now.......no more "home-ownership" for me, I'm not tied down up here (hint) :brows: I rent a building 1 mile away, but it takes 2-1/2 miles to get there by the time you drive around all the RR tracks :fs1: This is where I hide all the MJ's - Oh, and no Comanchrangers over there :(

If no one else jumps in, I'll cover you on the ECU (I have an '88 AW4 unit) And the shift cable.......do you need both cables??? the tranny cable and the lock out cable?? Also, there is a slight break on the ECU's from '87-'88 and '89-'90, at least in part numbers :hmm: