NickyV

How firm is too firm? And how long should I wait to determine if they will “break in” properly? Hope it’s OK to post this here. I just started on this door seal upgrade process and the above questions are my two main questions at this point. Here’s the background: I pulled a pair of door seals from (I think) a 1998 XJ. It was definitely 97+ because It had the newer style trim. I figured 1998 was a good choice because it was about as old as you can get with the thicker seals (97 would be the oldest?). I wanted them to be as “pre-broken in” as possible. I have a 1987 with good original doors and vent windows. I just put in the new seal on the driver’s side yesterday after work. I did it kinda fast, so maybe I could have done a better job. Anyway, first for the good: I took it out on the freeway after, and my unscientific “gut” reaction was that wind noise was better on the driver side. If I pull on the vent window latch, I now have no discernible wind noise on the driver side. TBD on leaks. Now for the (maybe) bad: I do have to close the door very firmly. And when I open it, there is a bit of a pop. I was surprised by how firmly I had to close the door. But maybe that’s normal! I’ve never done this before! I wouldn’t call it “slamming” the door. I would call it a very firm close. So, that brings me back to my questions from above. @ghetdjc320, @Gjeep, @Salvagedcircuit — this post is now a year and a half old. Any updates? How long should I wait to see if these seals get “broken in”? How firm of a close is too firm? Based on the symptoms, I described above, what would you all do? I have never had much of an issue with my doors, and I don’t want to mess them up. I am doing this in an attempt to eliminate as much wind and road noise as possible.

How serendipitous that @MelissaNelms commented on this thread. I finally have a lead on an aluminum Valve Cover and I also have a Felpro gasket ready to go. Just gotta make sure this seller has the bolts. (Yes… it has taken me a long time to get around to this project.) As I understand it, there are a few things to worry about here. 1) The bolts need to be longer. If he doesn’t have the bolts, is it possible to buy them? Or at least some of them? If they are a standard thread and relatively standard length, it seems like I should be able to order them from somewhere, right? 2) There is a mix of bolts that screw in from the top down and a few studs that come up from underneath. Am I understanding that correctly? And are the studs long enough to get through the thicker lol of the aluminum VC? 3) This is a cover from a 93 YJ. Or so the seller says. Is there anything I’m going to need to grind down on the cover? I saw a post on here saying that some of these covers have “lugs” or something that should be ground down. At least that’s what @Jeep Driver said back in 2018: Grind the lugs down on the back of the cover as shown, use Felpro blue rubber. Nothing else works. http://i.imgur.com/XgKNGxO.jpg

Happy tinkering! Just go slow and Make sure to take pictures and notes as you go, so you don't lose track of how to reassemble.

I second everything GJeep said about adding an amplifier and a sub to your setup. @hgeranium Something I didn’t realize until I got into car audio is that even though many head units do have decent amplifiers built into them, these built-in amps are very small, and are not powerful enough to drive speakers at their full potential. Amps are not just for subwoofers. They are for all the speakers in your system. That means, you will struggle to get your speakers loud enough to be heard while you are driving on the highway. It also means that your signal will get more distorted. (Think of it this way: to get even close to highway volume, you will have to push a tiny amp all the way to its maximum. But if you have a more powerful amp, you will only need to push it maybe a quarter of the way to get to the level you need.) I also want to draw your attention to the end of Minuit’s original post — to the “Science Projects” section. Here is where you will find a write up on how to add an auxiliary input into your RX-series radio. By doing this procedure, you will be able to add an auxiliary input to your head unit. I have done this procedure myself and it is very simple. (It is more complicated on units with tape players, but only slightly. That’s because you have to pull the tape player module out of the way to access the input posts.) If you do this procedure, you will be able to use the head unit’s built-in volume, bass, and treble controls on your aux input. You can make your aux input either a 1/8” input or a Bluetooth module. Then you will have a radio, cassette AND Bluetooth player! And it will look completely stock :) One additional thing to note: If you do this, you will want to either perform the “AM Delete” procedure, or you will want to carry a blank cassette in the truck. I believe most of this is explained in the “Science Projects” section. It is also covered in this YouTube clip: If you have additional questions, feel free to DM me.

Thanks, @Pete M. I agree that they shouldn't burn out simply by existing. And good on you for not installing ridiculously bright headlights. I hate it when I'm driving down the road at night and suddenly I feel like I'm about to be abducted by aliens. I just ordered some LED H3s and I'm going to redo the wiring. All the PO wiring was truly janky. One example is that someone had decided to use what I think were computer monitors for the tweeters. They had tucked these little speakers (about the size of a Rubik's cube) up under the dash and just twisted the ends of the wires together. I fixed that a while back when I redid my stereo. Haha.

My MJ has fog lights with orange glass and covers. They were installed aftermarket by a PO, and I don't think they did a great job. I've been working on cleaning up the work. Anyway, I rarely find the need to use them, but every once in a while I check on them, and almost always one or two are burnt out. I'm suspecting that I just need to redo the wiring right, which I will do. But what do you all recommend for replacement bulbs? The last time I replaced these, I went with Hella H3s. They are cheap, which is nice. I've seen some very expensive options out there. Wondering if the juice is worth the squeeze. Also wondering about best practices when it comes to wiring these up. They are already running through a relay. But is there a recommendation on gauge of wire? Recommendations on wire routing? What tips do you all have?

I would absolutely be interested in learning about all the radios they offered! You should upload that puppy!

Hey @NC Tom - Did you ever get this figured out for yourself? I am also hoping @Minuit is doing well and may one day return to the forum with more sage wisdom. But if I'm understanding your question correctly, I can help guide you through everything you need to get an amplifier hooked up. Feel free to send me a DM if you want.

I'm way late to this party, but I would like to second the request for a "2.5 Litre Lo Output" badge. I'm going to DM you now, @carolinajeepman

Thanks!

Hey there @Ωhm. May I ask where you got this schematic (quoted below)? I'm wondering if I have it buried in one of my massive PDF files or if it is from a manual I don't have. I'm nearly done refurbishing an HVAC box to put A/C in my MJ. I reassembled it based on the notes I took during disassembly and intuition. I'd hate to mess something up and have to take the box back out once it's in place. So any official literature would be helpful!

The A/C rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper, but I'm so close! I'm pretty sure I've figured out how to properly reconstruct the dealer-install harness for my 1987 2.5L. I will be posting about that soon in my build thread. Anyway, this morning I was realizing I needed to order one of those two-prong low-pressure switches (the dryer I bought did not come with one). And then I stumbled upon this post from 2021 where @Torq_Shep and others were speculating that the low pressure switch failed due to HIGH pressure and caused a refrigerant leak. It seems earlier MJs like mine never had a high pressure switch, but I'm thinking I could probably add one? I'd just need to wire it properly (probably by adding yet another relay (I'm already up to three, because I'm adding an e-fan and I gave up on trying to figure out how to recreate the fan diode assembly). Has anyone done this? I'm adding A/C from a heat-only, so I'm in a good place to add customizations. The system hasn't been installed or pressurized yet. Would it be as simple as finding an adapter that goes somewhere in the high-pressure line and the wiring up a relay system so that the "A/C Request" input is cut if either the low or the high switch trips?

Well, if you want to give Tinkercad a try, I'd recommend it. I think it's pretty easy to use, especially if you use ChatGPT or some other AI to ask questions about how to use it. If anyone decides to try it out, you can view my circuit here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gHNlViVpPVx-ac-fan-circuit-mj?sharecode=0m3G24SuONVXhRhFX79NZaLWc-r2XZxn2XKiO1nP4TQ

That was me! I am in the middle of putting A/C in my 1987 MJ. It's a 2.5L, 4-speed manual (AX-4). My plan is to figure out a way to also add an electric fan. My truck never had A/C, and the 2.5Ls never had an electric fan at all -- but I think this is possible. Every step along the way I've thought to myself: "This is gotta be the hardest part." Finding the right brackets: "This has got to be the hardest part." Refurbishing the HVAC box: "This has got to be the hardest part." Figuring out where to get hoses that no one stocks anymore: "This has got to be the hardest part." But let me tell you all... at least for me, figuring out how to reverse-engineer the "Dealer" side of the Dealer-Installed Electrical Harness... man this has been a journey. I have cross-referenced so many different manuals -- Parts Manual, Electrical Troubleshooting, the wiring section in the FSM and Haynes manual. I've sent several of you private messages. I am now working on modeling what I think the circuit is using graphing paper and a free online tool called Tinkercad. Tinkercad (www.tinkercad.com) is designed for microcontroller stuff, so it isn't perfect... But I do think I am pretty close to figuring this out. I plan to post about my findings once I get everything working. Thanks to all of you who have been patient with me and answered my questions!

I’m gonna try some JB Weld now. See that works.

@eaglescout526 It’s the bigest one. Kinda square edged. Looks like it was painted black.

I’m working on restoring an HVAC box for my 87. Got two questions. Vacuum Actuator: The large actuator that came with my replacement box appears to be damaged, but I’m not 100% sure. It looks to be cracked around where the nipple meets the bell of the vacuum housing. Here is a picture. I’m assuming this is not supposed to be like this, but I could see how this might be intentional — so that the door it controls needs constant vac to stay open and always closes when the truck is shut off. If it’s broken, should I just seal it with bondo? Or do I need to find one that’s not broken? Foam/Insulation: Has anyone figured out improvements on the insulation inside the box? It’s obvious that the foam around the ports and on the doors is intended to keep the box sealed and maybe prevent air whistling noises. I think I can see why they used light weight, open cell foam on the doors and around seams. They wanted to keep the doors light weight and to have a lot of “squish” for tight seals. But what is the purpose of using open cell foam on the inner walls of the box? It seems like this foam is primarily for temperature insulation. Although maybe it is also for sound dampening. I am wondering if using something like DynaMat in a few key places might be better? I’m specifically referring to pieces like this one. I asked AI and it said the open cell foam is better for this because it helps with wind noise. But it seems to me that this would not do much for temperature insulation.

Bringing this thread back to life if I can! I've had my HVAC box for like three years, and I'm finally starting the process of pulling it apart. Trying to take good video to make a legit how-to. But I have a question for anyone who cares to answer. More than one honestly, but I'll take them one at a time. A lot of the super thin foam -- the stuff that's on the interior walls of the box -- seems to actually be in OK shape. I mean, it's not brand new, but it isn't crumbling. If I do end up replacing that. What foam should I get? Is there a specific kind? Or will any porous squishy foam work? I have a bunch of sound insulation foam that I've been cutting to size. The kind you would use for a recording studio. But it occurs to me that maybe there is a specific kind of foam I should be using. @A-man930

Hey @Limeyjeeper: I’ve been skimming this thread (not reading deeply… so apologies if you answered already) but what thickness and material did you use inside the HVAC box?

Thanks to all who replied. Especially @Smokeyyank — that is the closest to what I was imagining. I feel like if I do this I’ll want to do the door handles too…. Maybe. But thanks, this helps me visualize it better. I’m still debating if I should get the auto door locks too. I currently have the auto window regulators and the previously mentioned chrome mirrors. Those both make sense to me so I can adjust the passenger side window and mirror on the fly. The locks I’m a little less sure of… Should I go full auto? I feel like the main reason I’d want the locks is so I could unlock both doors at the same time while walking up to the truck with another passenger. Otherwise it’s kinda meh… But man… this means I need to get new door cards too. Unless someone has a good hack for covering up the manual regulator hole

I just picked up some power side view mirrors from an 89 XJ. Used the DeWalt battery trick to make sure they worked. They seem like they are in good shape. The XJ they came from was in great condition. My question is, will these look good on my Colorado red MJ. I've always been partial to the black, no-frills side-view mirrors, but the ones I got have the chrome plating. Anyone got pics?

Thanks for giving me the honor of MJOTM. @JoeLAW -- Yeah! From the moment I bought the truck, it would make this intermittent noise. In retrospect, I think it was the fan blades wobbling. Not sure this is how it is on the 4.0, but on the 2.5L, the fan is connected to the coolant impeller. The sound of the fan rattling around and knocking into stuff, like the cowl and maybe the radiator would be channeled into the cab through the vents. At least that's what I think was happening. It sounded exactly like what it sounds when you funnel noise through a dryer vent or some similar kind of tubing. Sci-fi, psychedelic sounds. And I drove the truck up one of the steepest grades in California when it was like that. During the summer! That was the truck's maiden voyage. I knew very little about mechanical stuff at that point. I'm glad I didn't blow up the engine on that trip. When we got to the top of the mountain, it sounded like the truck was ripping a bong super hard. Haha! The coolant overflow tank was a-bubblin. Now I know what that sound (and so many other sounds) might indicate. Comanche Club is a big part of me building that knowledge base. Plus plenty of trial and error, and a heaping helping of YouTube University.

Thanks. Yes. This is what I'm talking about. Thanks for the link.

I have already rigged up Bluetooth to my MJ. I'm pretty happy with the setup... but seeing as I often make "perfect the enemy of good," I'm still thinking about how I can improve my mod in the future. This RediRad is really cool. I like how you get to assign an AM or FM frequency as the dedicated aux input! But since I went through the trouble to make myself a channel switch (one for the stock radio and one for Bluetooth), I don't think I'm going to swap out for the RediRad. But that leads me to my question: Have you (or anyone else following this thread) found a suitable product that can do both Bluetooth music and handle hands-free phone calls? One of these days, I'd love to be able to be driving down the road, listening to my tunes and then be able to take a phone call. I wouldn't mind if I had to push a button or flip a switch to toggle between stereo and call. But I do want it to be relatively seamless. And I also want to maintain my stock radio. Maybe one day I'll switch to one of those fancy "RetroSound" head units. But they are expensive and the closest model to what I'd want is the Grand Prix... And it isn't quite the right look in my opinion. Anyway... has anyone been able to accomplish this in their MJ?

That's simple and smart, @Eagle_SX4 Thanks for sharing!