howeitsdone

Everything worked out great. I'm not interested in exact temps; just ensuring the t-stat is working. I've never used the back of the head to bleed. Bleeding is very simple with a no-spill funnel.

Thanks! There are a couple out there, but not exactly "off the shelf". Much easier and readily available to do a 3/8 to 1/4 and throw in a standard sender. DATCON 02019-00 Stewart Warner 362AJ-D

The HO sensor is 2-wire and 5v (I think 5v) whereas the Renix is 12v and a single pole. I went to ACE and got a 3/8 M to 1/4 F and installed it just fine. Doesn't look bad either. I'll solder & shrink some added wire length to hook it up completely. Does anyone know the Ohm range? There are a lot of single pole 3/8 out there. Curious if there is an off the shelf type of solution.

To answer my question, no, the renix sensor does not thread into the HO t-stat housing. I’ll go to ACE and pickup an adapter. Should be good once the wire is lengthened and new T-stat installed. Way easier of a solution.

Yup. I just rebuilt the engine and bought this head from someone else. It had the sensor in it already and I didn't bother to remove when cleaning, lapping, etc... Well I fired up the motor after getting it reinstalled and noticed the temp wasn't reading after a few minutes of the truck running. I had the original sender from my old head laying around and figured I'd swap to diagnose. The sensor broke clean off the head when trying to remove. SO, rather than remove the head, drill, clean, and all that fun stuff, it will be 100x easier to relocate. Lengthening a wire isn't all that permanent if I ever decide to go back.

Damn, it really has at this point

There isn't a link in the DIY but I thought I had seen it before. Looking to convert to the HO thermostat housing with temp sender. Anybody have a link? Will the remix sender just screw into the HO thermostat housing? I know it's 2 wires vs the Renix 1 so not sure how that works.

+1 for Azzys

I use it every day in my workflow. I lead a production team for a creative agency and it is amazing for a scriptwriting aid. It can't write a full script yet, but helps significantly when ideating. I don't imagine the use-case of finding new technology parts might work as of now because of the limited knowledge past 2021. It'll always be behind. Honestly, a way to combat scraping web pages, if you know the site you want info from, is to use a simple html to text convertor and just copy/paste the content to get the info or summaries. I've had good luck telling it to summarize info from a specific URL.

Had a little fun and was curious if chatGPT had enough knowledge in the database for some Jeep 4.0 questions. At first it was way too nice, so I had it act a bit more like a 'typical' forum would treat you

Where there's a will, there's a way. And a lot of money to be spent. https://rocksolidfab.com/manny-the-manche

Are you building up the LS? Fortunately these things are pretty simple to work on. Just gotta keep track of the little pieces. And 100% you need a mounted vice to hold it. The absolutely most difficult part is hoisting it up on that vise and securing the jaws by yourself. Things that will come in handy are a steering wheel puller for 5th and bearing separator kit for the rest. Technically could get away with the bearing separator kit for install too, I think, but a press is ideal.

@Dzimm Want me to ship you a cargo light so you can get dimensions and model the housing? You can ship it back when you're done. Lenses would still need produced somehow and I don't have the time to mold them, but it could be a start.

Yup, quite a few times. Which thrust bearing are you looking to replace? 5th will take no time at all, 1st will take a bit longer but can be removed and pressed back on without removing 3rd, but can be tough. To get the 1st, you have to remove both shafts from the plate. Honestly though, if you're in there it doesn't take much time to press off everything and replace your bearings and synchros.

Spotted 20 min south of Salt Lake City. It was for sale in MX last year.

There was a crack in the original head so I had to source another. The one that I found was completely filthy and it took me all day to clean. Got the intake valves lapped and will do the new exhaust valves tomorrow. if all goes well then I'll be able to throw it on the block tomorrow and finally be in the home stretch.

Thanks all. Found a whole Renix motor for $100 an hour north. Going to get it Saturday. Maybe I'll use the head to practice cast iron welding skills that I'll never use.

Yes, those are rubber bushing feet for rad/condensor

In the middle a rebuild and finally got to the head only to find a slight crack in the exhaust on #1. Does this look like something a machine shop could fix? I'm having a hard time finding an 87-99 head in my area to replace so looking into any other options possible.

Almost got the rebuild done. See if you can guess how well the head was getting cooled...

If that parts truck had AC then the HVAC box would be needed to convert a non-AC truck. Useful to someone I'm sure.

175 ft-lbs is for 4WD

Working on pulling mine now! Going really smooth honestly, but has anyone left the trans/tc in and just put a stand under it for support? I really don't want to drain those fluids and deal with it if I don't have to.

You looking for some orders to help get materials? I mentioned grabbing some brackets on FB. Happy to pay for those upfront if it helps.

Overpaid for a set of fronts today. Might be my jump into the mold manufacturing. Super simple plastic and the emblem/border is simply a flat hot stamp. A good test if nothing else. They aren't perfect but if I can replicate them then it would be a justifiable excuse to pony up for NOS.