JOMJ87

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1591&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=60 Check the 5th page out for pics of mine and a brief write up also. Cole

OK I got the re joints from Holeski on here its the small joints that fit in the stock location of the uppers on the frame end. I ordered tubing online. I will find the link to what i got tonight when i get home and then i will post it. I used around 5/16ths thick plate for the axle end. And i bought about a 1.5' section of all thread. I will get demmisions and such from my dad cause he ordered this. I will post more tonight but i just wanted to give you an idea about what you have to look to get. I considered doing the tube adapters but i decided to go for it with the all thread and a tap. ANd i will tell you i had a lathe and all but the issue is you have to go so slow and be careful with it so that it sits right. Its not to hard once its setup and ready to go. I will go into detail tonight after i have the details laid out. Cole

Hey Jeepcomj I made a set of uppers out of real thick tube and a plate and RE superflex joints for under $100 I had access to alot of tool and die equipment so it was easier for me but you can do it pretty easy if you use tube inserts (i tapped mine abotu 8"s which was unreal hard) but i can send you some links from where i got my stuff and also i think there are some pics in my project thread if not i can send some. On a second note i would be concerned with using the uppers long term but for temp like a month or so they should be OK. The issue will be that you acctually weaken the stock metal and that may be the cause of failure. Hope this helps some. Cole

I wonder how those joints would act on the street. They look alot like RE superflex joints. I might be willing to make a steel set with a joint like that if i thought the street part would be OK. Cole

I do see your point about short shocks but the reason i havent upgraded is After i ran up a ramp with them hooked up and with them disco'd i didnt gain but maybe 1/2" of droop if that. It didnt seem like enough to make me want to fab new mounts up so it stayed. Cole

Thats exactly what i was trying to say but I didnt do a good job of explaining it to you. I was going to get pics but i havent been able to go do it. I wish i could take a week off from all the crap they are making me do at work. Anyways mine work perfect like that and i havent had any issues.Hope you understand it better now since it was kinda explained better. Cole

Not to steal petes thunder but i currently run stock shocks (somewhat longer now) with the stock plate. What i did was take the factory shock plate and swap sides and flip it over to the top of the pack and bolt it back together. When i originaly did this i had figured out all the math and with the spring over it would put the shock mount almost exactly in the stock location. There was no fab its strictly bolt up so it is real cheap. :brows: If you need pics i can try to get them tomm. but i may not have the time since i am having to bring my work home and I'm am still currently working on it. :mad: But it should pass in a few weeks. Cole

4thy sticky down on this page. Pete had a bunch made and is working on more as we speak. Cole

Here are some smaller round ones on my homebrew bumper. I cut out the grill and mounted them on it so they are recessed and arent the first thing to hit. Also including my original setup i came up with. If you can find a bull bar or want one. Cole Not the best pic but you get the idea

Camo would be a great color i prefer it over the OD green. Like a mossy oak break up style but that may not be possible. I prefer the first clasp the second style gets on my nerves while i wear the hat. Man i love hats. Cole

But a oven (range) plug is 50 amps usally.... :brows: Cole

I'm sure FREEROCKNOK was refering to me as I'm happy with my 2.5 and I'm in the process of swapping in the newer MPI one. I had 35s and 4.10s and that was sluggish but now with 4.88s i am in 4th gear at 40-45. I am very happy with the little 4banger. But to each his own. And for the work i sometimes think i should be going with a 4.0 but i can't bring myself to it. :dunno: Cole

Yes 1991 and up is the MPI so theres is a diff. they have alot less vaccum crap on them also the wire harness is even more simple by the look of it so far. As far as aftermarket support Freerok is right there is very very little. The best upgrade would be to bore it out or replace it with the newer MPI or a 4.0 but thats kinda drastic for someone just wanting a little better preformance. Cole

Why not thats a good one.... Cole

I would love a hat and cozie or 2 or 3 since i have buddies who could use one a there cold beverages. :cheers: I would also be really interested if the MJ body came in diff colors on the hats as well like i don't know maybe OD green ;) :brows: :D Cole

I modified my bracket for mine but i am redoing all the lines and putting it back up there but it has been working great and it was free. :brows: Just something you might try. Cole

TRUCK BROKE FOR GOOD.... Well i got what sounds like a bad bearing or pulley or water pump or something in the front that sounds like its flying apart in front of me. Sooooo the motor swap will begin next week. This week i have to find time to pull out and ship some stuff for some guys on here. I have been doing 3 peoples jobs at work cause they are new and got threw into something without any help. SO i havent even got to touch any jeep stuff. But i am tomm. or thurs depending on craziness. I will take lots of pics of the motor swap and go step by step with a full in depth write up since i have never ever found or heard of one. Wish me luck Cole

I have the original if you need it and i will dig to see if I have any in the new paint scheme they might be alittle more unique for this. Hell I would find something to climb on but i broke the MJ yesterday. But i get to start my motor swap early... Cole

I got some pics you can use but they don't have anything but wheels and tires aftermarket. Well theres some RE control arms but i am not sure you can see them. I can email them if you need me to. Cole This is kinda cool pic of RTI and a good shot of the wheels and tires Decent Offroad pic kinda dark it was a night trip

I would start with checking the switch and all the connections to it. Its sounds like the wires arent getting juice right. Or maybe a ground somewhere that isnt very good. Thats just my first ideas. Cole

NO as long as you support everything good is is pretty simple to just swap them. It can take some work to get the holes to line up if your going diff length but all in all not to bad of a job. Cole

Well Here is the one I'm going for or maybe going to build a replica one for the fun of it. Perfect for my trucks color scheme. This is a pic of a miniture one for a diarama but you get the idea Cole

I can see you are kinda set on the Miller but the price between the lincoln and the miller seems to big pretty big of a diff. I just thought i would bring up the lincoln cause i personnaly have loved it since i first welded with it. I shoudl have one by the end of sept. too. I think my buddy said he got his to the door for about 700 or so. Just a thought on your ability to get others. Let us know what you do and how it works. Cole

http://www.weldersupply.com/productdetails.asp?ID=111 Found this online in the millermatic also found this which will be my next purchase https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/c ... 72-1|||341 I love that lincoln and its a good price. I think my buddy spent almost 1000 getting all the neccesities he wanted i.e. cart and bottle and a few other things. Great welder though Cole EDIT: sorry for the link not working its a secure site link so it want hotlink to it just copy and paste

If you want to do the rear I got a lockrite for a D35 for sale.... Cole