jeepmjga

Haha and you kept the dents! Had to look outside the window to make sure mine didn't grow a topper and change color Gonna be a good look and should be pretty capable with that setup.

I've Noico'ed mine (floor, back panel, roof and doors) with one layer of 80 mil black and a layer of 150 mil red foam and its still a little loud for my taste, could be the Puegeot thats on its way out though. We will see if it changes when I swap it out. Putting the new headliner in there definitely made a HUGE difference. Also its a 32 year old Jeep so I'll take what I can get

Well the exterior and interior are done for now. New SMS headliner installed, bed lined with raptor liner and truck box is in. Maybe a paint job in the future but gonna rock the flat worn out paint for now, adds to the ruggedness 😄. Also swapped in a Red Head steeeing gear and new PS pump, as well as new balljoints got the steering back to good. I think the BA is on its way out so next up is an AX15 swap and trying to figure out some A/C woes.

Ordered a couple short sleeves got them the other day, very comfy!

This is a great writeup can we put this thread in the DIY section?

Pm on the way

Just thinking about what I would be getting into there. How hard is it to replace the front bearing? I assume you need to remove bellhousing and split the case to get to it?

Rear main is new also, I replaced when I did the clutch, forgot to mention that. Dang I figured as much. Worth it to replace or prob best to just start looking for an ax15 I'm guessing?

Nope its constant while moving whether the clutch is engaged or not, and it still shifts smooth and trans pulls good. I'm puzzled as to what it could be.

Hey all, now that I've got the ball joints fixed the trans starting leaking from the bellhousing. Its definitely NOT the clutch, pedal feels good and shifts into all gears smooth. The fluid is def trans fluid (used motor oil after doing some research) and is leaking out of the front of the bellhousing. I can't tell if its leaking while driving but I assume it is. When I park it, it leaks for a few minutes and then stops, so not continuous while sitting. The noise is kind of a low grinding while driving, I assume coming from the transmission. The noise is constant while I'm moving and does not change whether I'm on or off the throttle, but obviously its faster at higher rpm's. All new wheel bearings all around and new u joints everywhere. Clutch is also brand new LUK, new master and slave cylinder as well, clutch fluid in the master is staying at constant level. Any trans gurus got any ideas? I am no transmission pro but I just can't think of where it would be leaking from in the bellhousing other than maybe a bad input shaft and seal?

Dang glad it wasnt too bad! Had some uppers bend into a similar shape one time at Tellico years ago. No fun fixing that in the cold @$$ mud haha.

Another vote for the TJ boot. Just used a couple self tapping screws and it was good to go. Got mine from Quadratec

Well they ended up working, they were a little larger diameter than the ones that came out but I still took a punch and made a couple passes through each hole. They pressed in nice and tight after that and it finally steers like it should. I ended up using the 3134T for the upper and 3161T for the bottom. Guess I should have just replaced the power steering hoses too when I put in the new gear and pump though because the pressure line somehow got a tiny pinhole in it After that should be good to go! Thanks again for all the replies.

Thats what I'm afraid of but we will see. If they are still too small I'm going to try stippling the inside of the holes with a punch. Basically another kind of knurling I guess. Would prefer not to replace the housing but there are plenty at the junk yard around here.

Well I wish I lived here, but here's a few I took visiting Chamonix Mont-Blanc in the French Alps. Went to the top of Agullie du Midi and also went inside the Mer de Glace glacier, pretty rad.....PS my wife makes all the money, I just tag along 😄

Awesome thanks if these moog joints don't work that will help. Adding info to the library anyway.

As far as I know its original, but I didnt get much info on the PO since I bought it from a guy who had it as a shop project. The joints just drop right in to the hole without any resistance. Like they are about .001" too small. I ordered some moog ones, gonna see if those fit, if not then back to the drawing board I guess.

Yea that could help, thanks. It looks like the PO put in knurled ball joints and the spicers are smooth which would explain the small difference in size. It looks like the MOOG joints are knurled also. I've heard of using a punch to stipple the hole in the Inner C and basically create a smaller hole but would obviously use that as a last resort.

Maybe the gurus can lend a helping hand here as I'm at my wits end. I'm working on replacing the joints both sides and I am on ball joint set #3 now and still haven't found a replacement that works. 706944x does not fit and the other two napa and rock auto sets I got did not fit either. The only numbers I could find on the current joints are Upper - DW057389533 and Lower - OEJN 040110. Pics are attached. Both sets of spicer joints I ordered have the smooth surface and not the grooved. The napa set I got had the grooved surface but still didn't fit either. I guess the spicer joints must be like .001" smaller than what is currently in there. Any one got any part numbers or any idea why all these old joints are bigger than everything else thats listed for the D30? Thanks for any help. Edit: I'm seeing the MOOG part numbers 3134 and 3137, just wondering if they are the same diameter as the spicer ones? Anyone got any input?

Prob not the issue and just throwing it out there but check the fuel pump ballast resistor also. Could cause it not to start or quit running if the connections are loose or bad altogether. Little ceramic piece with two connectors on the drivers side inner fender.

Yep I'm almost there haha. Only thing that isnt new is the motor, trans and tcase. Tcase will be getting an overhaul and an sye soon. Maybe i should start pricing a stroker and aw4 haha 🤔

Yep MiNi is right it was a new bracket I had made for the proportioning valve,, I was missing a few pieces of the setup when I bought the truck. I (unnecessarily) ended up removing the whole setup and using a WIlwood proportioning valve instead. Now if I can get this steering issue figured out I will be in good shape. Been driving it a little over the last week or so and the steering is all over the place even after being aligned and new TRE's everywhere and a reman steering box. Steering won't return to center and pretty sure the PS pump took a dump today, its dumping fluid everywhere and whining constantly. Replacement is OTW along with a Redhead Steering Gear (thanks to a bonus at work, WOOT!) Got the ball joints also, just need to put them in, then everything in the steering system will be new so hopefully that will solve the problem. The addiction is real haha. Thanks for looking everyone! I wouldn't have been able to get all of this done without knowledge and parts from the great community here. This place rocks!

Just dealt with Alcan spring for my rears. Lew was super nice and kept me in the loop when their steel was back ordered. Pricey but worth it IMO.

Like they said prob a vaccuum leak. Follow the line from the canister to the line going into the firewall. Look for a red line, might be pink or white depending on how faded it is.

Look at the procedure Pete has posted. Sounds like that is probably the issue. Also make sure he has the calipers on the right side. The bleed screw and banjo fitting should both be on the top of the caliper (speaking from experience here). If the brakes still will not bleed after performing the CORRECT procedure for the height sensing valve you could try eliminating it and replacing the shuttle valve with a proportioning valve from Wilwood or some other brand. However if you do go this route make note that you will need to adjust the valve manually if you are carrying a heavy load in the bed.