Incommando

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The factory set up is troublesome. The mounts are a pain. Rather than sourcing all of the factory pieces it would definitely be easier and probably cheaper to get that linkage. Then you just need the shifter itself.

I would guess they are from the 80's based in when similar tread designs were popular. They are probably dangerously old. Check the date code on them before using them. Even googling them came up with almost nothing. I found a thread about them from 2005 that referred to them as an ancient design from the '80s, as well. The Destination name has been around for at least a decade now. It replaced the Wilderness name that was started around 1990. This tire has to pre-date that. I think the actual name is the ATX. There was a later Wilderness ATX with a much milder tread as well. It started as the ATX2 IIRC.

http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/-Transfer-Case_c_13.html These are some tips for installing this linkage upgrade whether you are replacing the factory pieces or installing a shifter & linkage as a part of a 2wd to 4wd conversion. The included instructions are pretty straight forward and the install is easy. Removing the factory parts takes longer than the install. I spent less than 30 minutes on this swap. This linkage was less expensive than sourcing factory XJ/MJ linkage parts and works better as well. #1 Start with your t-case in 4-lo for easier access to the range lever #14 #2 pop the linkage #13 off of the range lever #14 first #3 remove the plate #1 that holds the shifter #3 to the floor and pull the assembly up to pop off the linkage #11 that attaches to the shifter itself #4 Remove shifter #3 and use this hole to access the two nuts that mount the bracket #9 to the t-case. A third bolt attaches it to the tranny but it is easily accessed from below #5 you have to be able to pull up your carpet in order to access the 4 holes that hold the tunnel side shifter linkage mount #15. I cheated and slit the carpet & backing with a razor knife and then used tape on the back to put the slit back together afterwards. My MJ is not in great shape and the that may not be the way to go for some others. I also had to cut the carpet for the shifter anyway as mine was installed during a 4wd conversion #6 attach the new linkage to the shifter #3 before re-attaching the shifter to the body. The new linkage will mount on the driver's side of the shifter. #7 If you are installing the shifter for the first time as part of a 4wd conversion then the hole is already there for the shifter. #1 is replaced with a cover plate that just needs to be removed & discarded. Attach the linkage to the driver's side of shifter #3 before mounting the shifter to the body #8 you can fine tune the length of the new linkage rod to get the t-case to shift as easily as possible. 4lo can be more difficult to engage on a 231 and it is just inherent to the way that its low range engages. The owners manual suggests having the vehicle moving 2-3 MPH to make the shift and that is not practical while installing a shifter. You still have to source the shifter itself #3 from an MJ/XJ but the pain in the butt factory linkage & bracket need not be sourced. (Please do not make "for sale" or alternate product posts in this thread.)

Some tips for changing this out: #1 Start with your t-case in 4-lo for easier access to the range lever #14 #2 pop off the lever linkage #13 from the range lever #14 first #3 remove the plate #1 that holds the shifter #3 to the floor and pull the assembly up to pop off the linkage #11 that attaches to the shifter itself #4 pull shifter #3 out and use this hole to access the two nuts that mount the bracket #9 to the t-case. A third bolt attaches it to the tranny but it is easily accessed from below #5 you have to be able to pull up your carpet in order to access the 4 holes that hold the tunnel side shifter linkage mount #15. I cheated and slit the carpet & backing with a razor knife and then used tape on the back to put the slit back together afterwards. My MJ is not in great shape and the that may not be the way to go for some others. I also had to cut the carpet for the shifter anyway as mine was installed during a 4wd conversion #6 attach the new linkage to the shifter #3 before re-attaching the shifter to the body. The new linkage will mount on the driver's side of the shifter. #7 If you are installing the shifter for the first time as part of a 4wd conversion then the hole is already there for the shifter. #1 is replaced with a cover plate that just needs to be removed & discarded. Attach the linkage to the driver's side of shifter #3 before mounting the shifter to the body #8 you can fine tune the length of the new linkage rod to get the t-case to shift as easily as possible. 4lo can be more difficult to engage on a 231 and it is just inherent to the way that its low range engages. The owners manual suggests having the vehicle moving 2-3 MPH to make the shift and that is not practical while installing a shifter. You still have to source the shifter itself #3 from a XJ but the pain in the butt factory linkage & bracket need not be sourced.

The linkage in this kit has quite a bit of length adjustment. The supplied range lever also has 4 different mounting holes for the linkage to fine tune the fit. The 207 is the basis for the 231 IIRC but the biggest issue is probably the slot on the range lever being correct in both size and orientation for the 207. It would probably take comparing the two levers if someone had the ability to do that. Photos of both the 207 & 231 range lever in the 2hi position ( roughly pointing to the 8 o'clock position if you are looking at the t-case from the driver's side as seen in #14 below) would verify that the orientation is the same leaving just the spec for the slotted mounting hole being the issue in my best SWAG.

Did not take any pics. It is very straight forward. Removing the factory crap is the only pain in the butt part. This is perfect for those doing the a 4wd conversion. Two people who I showed this to and who tried mine out have already ordered one.

Worked right on mine. When you do the swap do yourself a favor and search up he after market t-case linkage. It will save you a ton of time and probably some money too.

That is worth looking into. Thanks for the tip. My current thoughts are buying a Z&M bedside panel and cutting it up to fix the bed and the cab or cutting patch panels out of two spare doors that I have but the TJ corners idea could work, as well. Something like this: http://www.c2cfabrication.com/store/1976-86-cj-series-rear-taillamp-panel-lh/

No factory lockers were offered. That does not mean that none were ever added to any particular MJ in the intervening 26 years. A rear factory limited slip was an option but that is not the same as a locker. The front was always open in stock form. Both the YJ and the MJ used the HP D30. It was the only front axle offered in either jeep. In a few rare instances jeep did in fact offer a rear Dana 30 axle. The '67 Jeepster Commando C101 is one of those instances. Other makes also used it. But examples of these do not even make a blip on the radar of most search engines. In certain low traction instances even an open diff could turn both axles. As soon as any level of bind is introduced the bias of the diff sends axles one way or another. Rubber under each wheel does not mean that all 4 tires spun at the same time just that all for spun at some time. As the bind shifts from side to side so does the power.

Well... BUY THIS NOW! This was a super easy install and the function and feel of this shifter is head and shoulders above stock.

New bumper arrived today. Super fast shipping. Hope to get it on tomorrow. It looks good...at least sitting in the bed it does...

Yep

Getting the product to Greyhound to ship it out is a major pain if you are nowhere near a terminal though....

Many trucks do not have an auxiliary electric fan or A/C. They just have the smallish mechanical fan that only draws over 1/2 of the radiator. I have a Taurus fan for a future conversion.

I missed that whole section... :doh: I wonder why no SWB rails?

For an XJ or what jeep?

Talked to Zach tonight. He has both sides of the panels and the longer rocker panels in stock. http://stores.zmjeeps.com/rockers-quarters-bed/

Talked to Zach tonight. He has both sides of the panels and the longer rocker panels in stock. http://stores.zmjeeps.com/rockers-quarters-bed/

400 HP drag car? How...cute. :banana: Most drag race sanctioning bodies require that you use c-clip eliminators based on speed or the use of slicks. 8.8's and other c-clip axles fail regularly in that arena. But those stresses are different than on a 'wheeler. Rear discs also add in retaining an axle should a shaft break.

Lebaron louvers I have no scientific proof but they seem to have helped when I added them .You can see the heat pouring out of them. At speed they probably do less as the heat gets scavenged out anyway but at slow speeds or idling allowing the heat to escape rather than get trapped and bake has to do something. After removing my header pipe and welding up the crack-prone areas as a preventative measure I coated it with some high-heat ceramic stuff to maybe keep the heat in the pipes.

Here is a design that is cheaper than the Nate's, American made, and does not either block your radiator, stick out a mile in front of the jeep, or both http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-bumpers/rustys-jeep-bumpers/jeep-xj-cherokee-bumpers/rustys-bumper-front-trail-bumper-xj.html It was $386 shipped to my door. Ordered Monday...UPS says it will be delivered Wednesday. So many places have long turn-arounds on items like this. Just throwing it out there as an option

Do you think that would support the weight of a spare tire?

I missed that in reading through this. Yes it was the '91. And again: this is by far the greatest upgrade I have done in terms of safety.