AZJeff

I cannot explain why Jeep only used in selective places on th bell housing. However, the use on fenders, door hinges/strikers, etc. is obviously driven by those production line factors.

The Torx bit was developed by The Camcar division of Textron. It’s design is similar to that of a gear tooth (technically it’s an “involute spline”) and it spreads the fastener driving force over a larger area. The MAIN advantage is that the tools used to drive Torx fasteners last MUCH longer in a production line environment. So now you know....😉

Only Jeep would use machine screws to attach tailights 🙄 I switched to Torx head stainless steel #8 (I think) sheet metal screws and “j-nuts” to attach my taillights.

No, the trans throttle cable controls some of the fluid porting in the trans. When mine was out of adjustment, the trans would slip in and out of gear randomly at cruising speed, yet would accelerate fine.

How did you do the graphics? They look very OEM.👍 Suggestion: you need some black screws to hold on the bottom instrument panel cover to make it a bit more finished. If you cannot find any on Guam, let me know what size/length you need. I might have some I can send you.

The 97 Dakota tank holds 22gal., and fits quite nicely (with a small dent added to the tank to clear a chassis brace.)

I put in the reclining sport seats, with the optional lumbar support. I went with cloth, because leather is no real pleasant here in AZ in the summer. Thet are firm, with decent side support, but not hard to climb into on an MJ with a 3.5” lift. Wife does not complain (much).

I put a set of Corbeau seats in my MJ, and used their brackets as well. I had only one bolt hole I had to ream to get it to align with the stud in the floor. I am happy with the fit, and the comfort.

I am curious has to how you separated the sheets so cleanly. Were they spot welded, or bonded via adhesive around the perimeter?

I have heard stories of body men who use head and quickly cooling the heated metal to shrink/straighten dents that are not full creases. This would save having to separate the panels. it’s most often employed on classic prewar autos where replacement sheet metal is non-existent. I don’t know what the odds are of finding a guy in Guam who is willing to try this, but do some YouTube searches to study the technique.

Yup, it’s kind of a trial and error method to cut enough to clear the clutch. Cut only as much as absolutely needed.

Agreed. The MJ/XJ series from Jeep are probably some of the BEST vehicles for a DIY guy to own. They are robust, relatively simple, and most things can be fixed without any fancy tools. It sure beats the heck out my 2014 Wrangler, which is the opposite of simple. I unplugged a couple of connectors to measure some voltages, and when I next started the vehicle, it threw a "check engine" light and a "traction assist error" light as well. What a pain in the rear....

New pans, welded in. POR 15 is good, so is commerical truck bed liner.

Yeah, I can see that. But...you still need a shroud, especially if you live in a hot climate, as it makes the fan SO much more effective. Unless you make some mods to the OEM shroud, you will get a chance to do it all over again the next time you take the shroud out.

I have found that, for whatever reason, the fanshroud with the OEM dimensions always has a HELL of a time getting past the space between my radiator and my mech. fan clutch if I have to remove it for any reason. (Maybe it's because I have an all-metal 3-row radiator.) In any case, I have broken THREE of those damnned things trying to remove them after installation without removing the top radiator core support bracket, which is a PITA unto itself to take out. I finally bought my last replacement, and before installing it, did some judicious trimming on the bottom edge of the shroud with a Dremel tool before installing it into the vehicle. I can now install/remove the goofy thing without breaking it in the process. I don't know if anyone else has had this issue, but it's a tip to share....

That is correct.

That is not true, as far as gaskets are concerned. The 97+ gaskets frunction as the trim, eliminating the bright metal around the windshield. in my book, this an improvement, since the metal trim will vibrate/rub and take the paint off the body, leading to rust.

The AW-4 is an unusually durable transmission. The only way to kill one is to seriously overheat it and cook the clutches. Occasionally, the solenoids act up, but other posters have given tips on how to diagnose that. Of course, any overheating does damage to the fluid, so anytime there is suspicion of heat damage to the fluid (smell/color evidence), a thorough flush of the system is warranted. Doing it by the drain/fill/drive cycle several times is the cheapest way, especially since the AW-4 has a drain plug. On the last drain/refill, change the filter and clean the pan, and call it a day.

Yes it could. Just drill an access hole on the outside of the pillar, and "tap" the screw out with a punch.

I wouldn't recommend a dark-colored headliner, as it will make the entire interior of the vehicle darker. Unless that is your intent...

ghetdjc320 got me thinking....anothe cool straight six that would be an interesting transplant would be the old Pontiac OHC that they put in the Tempest and Firebird in the late 1960’s. They were more powerful than any pushrod six of the era, and with modern EFI, they might really shine.

I made a “precision” spacer from a piece of PVC pipe that slide over the top of the upper ball joint and rested on the flange of the joint where it seats against the upper surface of the inner C. Then I set my angle level on the top of the tube. I figured that was as close as I was going to get to measuring the kingpin angle for caster without a real alignment rack. I wouldn’t trust measuring the camber with a level on the axle tubes. The face of the unit bearing hub flange is probably a much more accurate spot.

LMAO I had a 1991 F-150 that had the countersunk bosses break off the plastic windshield pillar trim. That meant none of the OEM screws would retain the plastic. I ended up using sheet metal screws that had an integral washer to span the now oversized hole to mount the plastic trim. Boy Ford used some really bad plastic resin for their trim back then that got SUPER brittle in the AZ 😡

There is no doubt that a watts linkage minimizes lateral movement compared to a track bar (panhard rod). The only question is how much that improves the handling of an oxcart....er, I mean an MJ🤪

I wouldn’t recommend pinching rubber brake lines EVER with ANY kind of clamping too. In doing so, you are weakening/cracking the rubber, and increasing a chance for a rupture.