AZJeff

Yeah, this is often a terminology issue among posters on many automotive forums. For an engine to truly start, it's a two-step process: the starter must rotate the engine, and then the fuel and ignition systems must provide gas and spark at the right moments. When a person writes "my vehicle won't start", he may mean one of two things: 1. there is no cranking of the engine when the key is turned to the "start" position (I call this the "no-crank" condition.) 2. the engine "cranks" as the starter turns it, but the engine does not actual "catch" and begin to run (I call this the "no-start" condition.)

I think in general, unless you are just "fed up" with all fact that you have a vehicle you poured money into, but now had a dead engine, you would be best off doing a "back yard" rebuild. The 4.0 is amazingly tolerant of repair methods that would be rejected by newer/fancier engines. It is quite possible to polish the crank and throw in some undersized bearings (using Plastigage, of course) and wind up with a viable engine. It wouldn't be a job I would be proud to do, but it would create a functional engine.

Cruiser…any advantage to your favorite swap over the classic 95-96 XJ booster/MC?

I agree that that the rad. drain is in a HORRIBLE location. Most guys resort to removing the lower rad. hose where it connects to the radiator. I agree with this approach. It is what it is....

I assume since the one photo shows the Chrysler pentagon logo that the block you are talking about is not new, but is "REMANUFACTURED" from an existing used engine. Otherwise, someone making a "new" replacement engine would not be able to use that logo, as it is copyrighted to Chrysler. If it IS actually a NEW engine block, one possible explanation is that what you see is part the permanent mold sand castings that are used for cores inside the water jacket during the casting process. Essential, the permanent mold is a mixture of sand and a resin binder that holds the shape while the molten cast ironl is poured around it. After the cast iron hardens, the permanent mold sand pieces are broken up and removed from the holes in the water jacket by ultrasonic vibration. The texture/color looks very much like what is in your photos.

Here is a follow up to my steering box issues, for those of you who are interested. The remanufactured box I installed in my MJ 30 months ago was defective. Unfortunately, the warranty from Rock Auto was for 24 months. I purchased a NEW box (ouch), and I installed that, along with designing and fabricating a steering box brace similar to, but slightly simpler than, the one offered by Ironman4x4Fab.com The end result is that the Jeep steers like a new vehicle. It's smooth and sensitive, and best of all, no creaking/groaning sounds!

You need a wiring diagram for the 1987 model year. I have one for the 1988 model year, if it is applicable. Others on this forum can confirm if it would applicable to your needs.

Is there a reason you. MUST have AGM? I ask because down here in AZ, the AGM construction does nothing to extend the life of most batteries, which die due to excessive heat in this environment.

Carbide gasket scraper this will solve your problem without lots of aggravation.

That is correct. I intercepted the line heading to the rear end of the vehicle, and made a splice there in the cab. Then I fished the line up inside the trim on the "B" pillar, and across through the headliner. I used insulated spade connectors to actually joing the light wiring to the new connection. The Ford light came with a wiring harness with three bulbs and a custom connector that attached to the normal Ranger wiring harness. I cut off that connector, and attached spade connectors. For a ground, I added a ring-tongue lug to the Ford ground wire, and attached that with a sheet metal screw inside the boxed in section at the top of the cab at the back. One last thing I did was to switch to LED lights in the sockets. I did that to lessen the chances I will ever have to take the light assembly back out.

Yes. The hole I cut is about 2 inches high, and about 9 inches across. However, with some masking tape and a sharpie pen to outline the cutout, it's easy to use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to make the actual cut.

Are you talking about the one I posted the photo of on my MJ? That's the high mounted stop lamp/bed light for a 1998 Ford Ranger. You should be able to find those on Ebay or some other auto parts retailers on line.

Here is what it looks like, installed.

My MJ uses a high mounted stop light/cargo light assembly from a late model (1999 or thereabouts) Ford Ranger. You can buy Taiwanese copies that are decent from Amazon, and they include a closed-cell foam gasket. you will need to open up the hole in the cab to install these. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. I then used Tinnerman-type “J-nuts” on the edge of the opening to allow the mounting screws to have a solid engagement, rather than just screwing into the cab sheet metal directly. The

The ball joint removal/installation tool you can borrow at AutoZone and it's competitors usually does not have the proper adapters for the XJ/MJ yoke and knuckle. HOWEVER...if you ask the store for what is loosely called the "4 wheel drive adapter kit", it will allow the "regular" ball joint tool to work on the XJ/MJ. In essence, you need the basic tool, PLUS this adapter kit to do the job correctly. I found this out when I borrowed the tool from my local O'reilly's.

The heater core input/output pipes extend through the firewall just far enough so that heater hose can be slipped over them and clamped on. The foam rubber seal you see in the diagram is intended to keep water and air from the engine compartment from getting into the cab of the vehicle. It plays no part in the actual sealing of the coolant lines to the heater core. Since you are planning on replacing your core, there is a good chance that foam seal will be trashed with dry rot when you try to remove the core from the seal. If that happens, just get some other foam at a hardware store or fabric/sewing shop, and cut something to fit the space. Use contact cement to hold it to the heater box.

Bueller?? (BUMP)

I don't have a stock MJ or XJ to measure, but I know plenty of the members here do. I need a measurement with someone with an MJ or XJ at factory STOCK ride height. What is the dimension between the centerline of bolt that hold the link to the axle bracket, and the flat surface on the sway bar where the link bushing are sandwiched?

Thanks, I will investigate them.

Hmm....that is sort of what I would expect. But the input shaft will turn further than the stop on left turns, but not on right turns. Yet, from what I can determine, the stop screws on the knuckles are both even. So I wonder if the box is misassembled? (It is a reman, as I noted earlier.) The one thing I am still pondering is why the box has started leaking. Initial in-car inspection seemed to suggest a leak at the high pressure hose into the box. I removed the box, and hosed it down with brake-cleaner. (Purging the oil on the bench is one VERY messy task, as you can imagine.) I inspected everything, and saw nothing obvious. Even after I installed new hoses and o-rings, the box is leaking around the high pressure port. No leaks on the pitman shaft, nor on the input shaft. I am thinking the box has something wonky inside it causing the leak.

I don't think it's a track bar issue. I have an aftermarket bracket from Rubicon Express, and I used a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a "torque multiplier" tube slipped over the handle to tighten the mounting bolts. They are WELL over 100 ft-lbs now.

THIS IS A LONG POST, BUT I HAVE TO GIVE YOU GUYS ALL THE DETAILS SO I CAN GET GOOD INPUT FROM THE TEAM. FIRST, SOME BACKGROUND: About 2 years ago, I installed a remanufactured steering box from Rock Auto (AC-Delco branded), to replace the OE box that the PO had trashed by gross misadjustments. All was well with the replacement for about a year, until I noticed a crack in the frame radiating out from the front/upper mounting bolt for the box on the outside of the frame. To address this, I did the following: 1. I removed the box, welded in a doubler plate on the top of the frame rail above the box. (There was a small older crack that had been previously repaired poorly). 2. I welded in custom made 1 inch diameter steel tubular spacer that goes across the inside of the frame where the upper front bolt was located. This replaced the failed sheet metal spacer the Jeep spot welded in from the factory. 3. I welded in a 2 inch wide doubler plate on the outside of the frame where the upper front bolt goes that extends 5 inches forward and back of that hole. This was to reinforce the area where the bolt hole was cracked. 4. I added a reinforcement bracket from 1.5 inch angle that attaches to the front crossmember from side to side to further stiffen the crossment and tie the two frame rails better at the front end. 5. I added in a pair of the OEM "tow hook reinforcement" angle brackets that tie the front side of the front crossmember to the "horns" of the frame rails where the bumper mounts. 6. I replaced the die cast aluminum steering box spacer with a welded steel type. I then added in a RockHard bumper, and modified the driver's side mounting arm so that it extends past the lower two steering gear mounting bolts. (This required longer bolts for the steering gear box, so I got some grade 8 bolts and hardened washers to attach the box back to the frame.) So when my steering box is bolted up, it has an added layer of steel on the outside of the frame, as well as the benefit of the steel spacer between the box and the frame, and all of the holes have proper reinforcement inside the frame "box" to keep it from collapsing now. In addition, the bumper makes the front two 'horns' of the frame rails very rigidly connected. THE PROBLEM: All was good with my repairs and improvements until about 2 months ago. At that time, I started noticing that there was a "creaking" noise in the front end, but only when I turned slowly LEFT from center, and only when the vehicle was warmed up. From cold, there was no noise. The sound was not heard at anything except parking lot speeds, and the vehicle steers and tracks very normally. MY EXAMINATION I did a bunch of visual examination with everything still installed, and the creaking seemed to be coming from the steering box proper. (Track bar and it's mount are both good JKS parts.) The drag link end at the steering box is new, and without play. I then removed the steering box, and cleaned the frame thoroughly, and inspected with a bright flashlight all four sides of the frame for cracks, and found nothing. I checked the steering box proper for smooth operation on the bench, and found nothing. WHERE IT STANDS NOW. I reinstalled everything, and replaced both power steering hoses, since they were both leaking. (I used Edelmann brand hoses.) Now the creak is more noticeable than ever, and the brand new high pressure hose is leaking where it enters the steering box. (And I did use a new o-ring when I installed it!) The creak is DEFINITELY right around the steering box, and I can feel a slight vibration when the creak occurs if I place my hand on the box or the frame adjacent to the box. ONE LAST THING: When I have my wife turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the engine on (and axle on jack stands), the steering box attempts to twist the frame when the drag link reaches the end of it's travel when turning left. The knuckle hits the stop bolt, but the steering gear still can move a bit further, and the power assist tries to pull the drag link further, and in doing so, is twisting the entire frame slightly. I am at my wits end. So I need some input from experts here. 1. Why would a new hose leak on the fitting at the box? (Crack in steering box through threaded hole for fitting?) 2. Why is the steering box still trying to move when the knuckle hits the stop bolt? I cannot imagine the box twisting the frame was part of the design intent of the XJ/MJ platform. 3. And what is making the creaking sound?

Bump so that someone with ECU/PCM knowledge at a deeper level can comment here. I know this is not very MJ specific, so if someone can point me to another forum that deals more with OBD-2 PCM’s on XJ’s, that would be appreciated.

NICE LINK!!!! 👍👍👍👍