eaglescout526

Awesome! I appreciate the info guys. Definitely get the kit from Jeepair and not worry about these weird fittings on the compressor. Condenser is NOS so chances are Chrysler made it for R134a specs. I'll keep this topic open on my computer until I complete this project. Yes the fittings have Schrader valves which is why I was confused. Now another question, should I take a gamble on the factory evap or buy the one from Jeepair? I only ask because of the crap shoot that the replacements are not built in a factory OEM manner, meaning they are missing the thermostat hole.

I swear, each day passes and I get more stressed over this damn set up. (Note to self, don't be a HVAC tech) As I'm gathering parts and acquiring as much info I can, the 2.5L seems to be buried in a sea of 4.0's, I have a few questions. Currently everything is in good shape, hoses are filthy on the outside but clean internally as well as evap. Parts that will be replaced are the condenser, expansion valve, dryer, compressor and O-rings. Currently have new expansion valve and condenser. Planning on buying Jeep air's retro fit kit, any opinions on this? Any former dealership or current dealership guys know of an official MoPar R12-R134a conversion kits with manuals to have existed back then? What the heck are these fittings?: This looks like a conversion as these don't match any R12 fittings from the AMC era Once I have this puzzle all together, how many pounds of R134 go into the system(as far as how much the 2.5L system holds)? Planning on having my work assist me with the charging but most of the techs have told me to have conversion info to provide to them before they charge it.(or at least a label showing it has been converted, more so added to the truck.) Ultimately it seems like I need to have all the fittings tight and leak free with replaced O-rings once it is all installed. I have zero experience with AC, so finding leaks and using manifolds and reading them is like reading hieroglyphs to me. All these parts came from an 87 MJ or XJ Renix jeep.

I don't know. That’s not an easy thing to call on. Just most trucks prior to 89 have some info missing on them and are not as detailed as post 89. It’s the Chrysler years that have the most detailed build sheets. But it seems like a well optioned truck.

You’re welcome. She’s a well optioned truck for being a California truck

*D4 TRIM STYLE D4 - VINYL BENCH SEAT -SA CHARCOAL 173 Zone 73-San Francisco 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 4AF American Coin Merchandising 4HA Special Scheduling Condition I ADL Skid Plate Group ALA SE Decor Group APA Monotone Paint BAF 130 Amp Alternator BCY 475 AMP BATTERY BGA Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CBA Straight Back Bench Seat CKJ Black Vinyl Floor Covering DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DGS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHA Lock-Up Torque Converter DHN Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DHT Elec,Shift-on-the-Fly,P/Time T/Case DJH 230MM Front Axle DMD 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio DRK Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine GAC Tinted Glass Windows GBB Tinted Windshield Glass GCB Front Door Tinted Glass GEH Fixed Door Vent Glass GFD Rear Sliding Window GRZ Left Remote Mirror GSZ Right Remote Control Mirror GTZ Manual Remote Mirrors HAA Air Conditioning JAZ DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJA Cigar Lighter K3Z STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KWX EAGLE/SUMMIT DECALS BL LBC Glove Box Lamp LMA Halogen Headlamps MB1 Black Front Bumper MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFF Black Grille MHB Bright Windshield Moldings MMC Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMG Belt Moldings MMJ DRIP TROUGH MOLDINGS - TYPE I NAE California Emissions NBK EVAP Control System NF5 Fuel Tank - 23 Gallon PW7 Bright White Clear Coat QW7 Bright White Clear Coat RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAB AM/FM Radio RCD 4 Speakers SBA Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCE Alcantara Wrap Steering Wheel SFB Front Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers SGB Rear Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers SUA Tilt Steering Column TBB Full Size Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TRP 225/70R19.5G All Pos Traction Tires TZA Goodyear Brand Tires WJD 15X7.0 Styled Steel Wheels WLY All Steel Wheels XBS Pickup Box YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Build date:1/21/91 Body code:JL62

In the crate this cover had seen better years. I think this one turned out damn good! Silver stripes painted and taped off. Final product. Pictures don’t do justice. More to come!

Looks like a good part out or a future GM 3.5L swap and just beat it down.

Here Pete. This one came into the shop today at work. It’s a 3.7L but still neat. Now I’m convinced to own one of these things.

Will do.

*X1 -Q8 3LY ADL PACKAGE - 4X4 PROTECTION AGJ Driver Assistance Group APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JGB Clock - Digital JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MOLDINGS - VINYL LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED MWF BOX SIDE RAILS NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) PQ9 QQ9 RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN TBB CONVENTIONAL SPARE TIRE WJD WHEELS - 15 X 7.0 STYLED STEEL Body Code: JM62 Built 2/4/88

The plate or the plate and lighter together?

Well “plug in” can be used here. But there’s couple of us that have access to providing build dates and sheets from Chrysler for those who want to know what our trucks left the factory with. I am one of them....I’m currently away from my computer so I can’t quite get you your info on your truck at the moment. Damn Pete beat me to it

I highly agree there. I thought they are well worth what I paid. Granted I’m glad they are cut like the original mats so I’ll take it. Course I’m sure we all would love for the original mats to be produced again....and the windshield guy managed to get them covered in dirt after I installed them that day.

Well I sure am moving right along now. Got windshield replaced and ask the man to keep the moldings off so I can restore them. There's plenty of before pics so no need for one. But here is their current stage: Ready for paint! Using stripper on the old plasti-dip sucked. Stuff is hard to get off. As promised these are what I have chosen to restore and make new. Started sanding the alt bracket before I took the picture. Oops. Once these are done, there is hell of a puzzle of bolts waiting for me. Time to consult a parts diagram!

All hail Flying Spaghetti Monster. Haha oh god my phone capitalized that all for me. Priceless.

Oh, never mind then. I'll have to go look at my FSM and see.

Send Minuit a Message. He will help you out.

Came home to a nice surprise waiting for me. Was really skeptical at first when I bought these, buuuut I'll let y'all decide; Neat! Are they worth it? Yes, Yes they are! But this caught my attention though: Nothing, and I mean NOTHING in the description did it say anywhere, Authentic MoPar restoration. No idea if they hand these stickers out or not. But hey! Factory floor mats! Alright, back to the regularly scheduled program....

I will say they do help. I snagged some NOS door protectors that have the built in baffles and they did bring down the vibrations.

Neat. I’m running those same exact speakers. Really vibrate the door with the bass though.

Run. Run far away from Fram. Everyone on here will tell you to use Wix or Napa or even MoPar.

Huh. I’ll run it again. Mind snagging the cover and the air box for me?

Just went through this with the blue cluster. It’s a finicky thing to get adjusted just right. I’ve had mine for almost a year now and I finally got the tach in the sweet spot for the 2.5L. The REM helped me a lot both times I adjusted it. Course, i don't know how it was off the first time I adjusted it as I used the REM. You'll get it adjusted where it needs to be.

Progress. Your TPS works as designed.

If it was, revving it while at idle would starve for fuel in the same manner you would putting it in gear and driving.