eaglescout526

Lol completely fair. I’d probably pay the $800 if all that interior was brand new with no miles on them but it’s a decently common color. I probably would lol. Usually do when the older XJs get crunched.

$800? And you don’t get everything inside? I mean I probably would understand say black, navy, honey, garnet, or even the light blue but for a color that went from 87-92 is a bit much.

Lol I kinda do. It’s worth what you’re willing to pay for such…and condition is everything with the interior. I’d throw out a price but I don’t want everyone to take my word as good as some have tried to sell different colors with little to no attention.

Ask them if there’s any out there as NOS. The parts counter guys fears are that you’ll want to warranty it when it fails and most don’t want to go through that trouble. As long as you make it known to them you are aware of the issues in getting an older mopar part and you express explicit interest in getting mopar, they will do it. Or I will since I enjoy helping the us get parts.

The dealer is lying to you or at least the parts guy is and probably doesn’t want to get a vintage part for you. There’s still some CPS’s out there at the same price you paid 10 years ago.

You can equip our MJs with a low tone and a high tone or two high tones or two low tones. Take your pick.

M8x1.25. AMC part number is 8934201604 Mopar 34201604 GM number is 11502693 I recommend looking up the GM number as that’s easier to find than mopar or AMC.

Why not? That’s basically what the black colored bumpers are.

It’s probably a 3.55 ratio. @jdog I appreciate the help with these.

That’s 86-87 only color.

Got a box of goodies today, stuff that will help with the engine to run right and what not. Apparently there’s a vac check valve on the back of the manifold that goes to a smaller hose. I didn’t know this until I found the part online and all I had was a terrible plastic hose connector holding the two hoses together. So that’s fixed. Also replaced some rubber tubes that go from the valve cover to the filter housing. Also got my interior lights working again. Stupid door switches. I should suspected this after working on Jeeps haha. Glad that’s working, shortens my list down quite a bit. Added power steering fluid, pump didn’t sound happy but it’ll get better as it cycles fluid through it. I’ll probably have to flush the fluid a few times before it’s a happy pump again but hey, power steering works. Also found a leak at the oil filter, so that accelerates the idea of doing an oil change. Once I got the new check valve in and made sure everything was good I got it fired up again and it sounds better and takes on fuel better than previously. Got it to idle at 1k and then warmed up to 750. Played with the choke some as it kept dying once it tried to get to 750 to idle. Got that squared away but I’ll definitely need to replace the tabs that are supposed to hold the choke in place. Fuel cap has also been replaced with a standard one.

What they don’t tell ya is it’s worth every penny….unless you make a bad choice in a product.

Hmmm. Now that you point out the meaning of those symbols on the back it would be hypocritical of me to run this oil. Seeing gas and diesel on the label is misleading and made me think it should be regular oil and none of that special diesel oil blend. I wonder if my grandfather had this stuff from when he owned a diesel Mercedes for a bit.

Yeah those have to be replaced anytime the pads get worn down which is unfortunate but the system operates just fine without them and considers the unplugged sensor as ok.

Damn near close actually. The only ones that are the same is the coolant and washer sensors.

Lol gotta find the lid and sensor. I was talking with another member, if you have the low washer circuit set up and working, you could essentially use the plug for the washer level sensor and use it on the brake, coolant or power steering if you wanted to.

That’s all I needed to know. Course I’d just like to use this oil as a flush and light use. Say maybe 100 miles or maybe a run time of 4 hours total.

Yes sir! Funny enough there’s nothing special about the master itself, just the lid.

I appreciate the input on the diesel oil but I am staying away from that stuff. I’ll run engine oil with a 1/4-1/2 a quart of ATF before running diesel oil in any of my engines. I’m just more curious on what was commonly used in the 70’s and 80’s as I don’t have an original owners manual at the moment and I haven’t looked in the Hayes manual I have but I know I have the oil above that I can use since it’s free and figured I’d get some opinions on the use of said oil.

The two options AMC said you couldn’t do. Well done!

Oh shoot. I forgot about this method. My grandfather taught me this when I was cleaning my bike white walls. Except it was with comet

It could be trashed by the sun depending on where those were located.

Hahahaha hey whatever works. A tech at work has a mustang seat as his workbench chair.

I love the rear couch. Hahaha.