eaglescout526

An 86 build sheet is gonna be very limited. Chrysler lost a lot of data from the buyout and a flood in the basement where the records were stored. But if you make a post in the registry, I can get you a build sheet tonight.

There’s a bulletin in one of my service manual books that says to get rid of that block and just use vac lines to the throttle body.

I’ll shoot you a PM tomorrow with the location.

Front bumper is on as are all the pieces for the tow hooks. Looks damn good with a bumper that looks nice and clean. Still working on procuring a NOS rear bumper. I hate understaffed dealers, they take a while to find what you’re looking for. But I have patience. I did get the old rear bumper off though. That was fun. Learned I do need to replace it hence the procurement of a new bumper. It’s dented and bent to where it doesn’t look good anymore which is unfortunate. But I did get the NOS mounts on which looks good. Got the wire for the fuel pump in the plug and into C100 at the fire wall. I couldn’t believe there was an open spot right at the top in position ZE or EZ depending on how you want to read that bulkhead. Now I am ready for the injection swap. I also made a new bracket for the auto leveling sensor, I should be able to get that ready soon along with having to make an extension harness to get from the rear to the engine bay, made that too short stupid me. Oh well.

I have the last NOS stripe kit on the way, it may not have the pioneer word so someone with a survivor may have to provide some really good pics to Phoenix graphics, I’m hoping the kit does include it. But as soon as I get it I plan to call Phoenix graphics to get it to them and have it duplicated for the HO guys.

Do I have enough money for this

Running Renix still or Chryslers HO system?

Lol what did I say. Well glad it’s a 404 and not a log in screen

I’d keep an eye and ear on it for a bit. But it sounds like you’re fine.

Redlined the 2.5L huh? Well at that speed the valves wouldve been floating and not opening and closing given how fast the RPM was. Now if you were running it at that speed for longer than what you did, youre probably fine and I would do an inspection just to make sure. Does the engine sound fine? I would be only worried about the valve train and timing chain in this instance. Maybe the distributor too.

I am not seeing anything in terms of maintenance to the timing. I did find this: MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR 1 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM 2 - SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed. Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL). To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum tensioner piston (2) extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain tensioner housing (Measuring Secondary Timing Chains For Wear) and the step ledge on the piston. The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm (.5906 inches). If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require replacement (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL). DO NOT CLICK THE LINKS, THEY WILL TAKE YOU TO THE SERVICE LIBRARY IN WHICH NO ONE WITHOUT DEALER CLEARANCE CAN ACCESS.

You’ll probably get a lot of flak for modifying an original roll bar that no one makes. Have you tried seeing if there’s anyone out there who has a short bed that needs a long bed one?

I can check the service library if you’d like.

Ok. The HO pioneer decal has been secured. As soon as I get it I will call Phoenix graphics and get it sent so they can duplicate it and hopefully the HO guys can have the proper decal to put on their MJs.

That’s not a D44a is it?

None of the evap system would stop the tank from filling to capacity unless it’s really that pressurized but even when filling all the pressure is released to accept more gas into the tank. Now there is another issue I thought of, there was a member on here a while back who had an issue like this and they found the float on the sending unit lost is buoyancy and stopped floating above 3/4 of a tank. This is a possible problem you could be having.

No problem!

I would double check what you ordered just in case.

Did you get the right tank? There are two tank options for the XJ. A 20 gallon and I think a 13 or 15. I don’t recall. If you got the lesser, you’ll only be able to fill it to 3/4 like you currently are.

That’s every story with every car. You’ll even get it with new fresh off the lot cars. It’s discouraging but the reward of powering through the fixes is worth it along with the challenge and testing of your mettle. I had a kid younger than I who owned a newer XJ this past Saturday totally fall in love with the MJ and got really shocked to see a 4cyl under the hood vs the 4.0. That actually made my day to see someone younger than I appreciate the classic obscure Jeeps.

Front bumper is off, tow hooks installed, just waiting on the front support brackets to show up so I can get this buttoned up and have the bumper installed. While I was in here I tore down the original bumper to paint it up and drill a couple holes for the front bumperettes...wellIll I somehow screwed up when drilling the second hole and drilled it farther from my original marking, not sure how I did that. Luckily when I got MJCARENAS parts stash, he had a front bumper predrilled, yes I should have just swapped bumpers but the problem was is that the bumper was a badly spray painted blue. So more work wouldve been involved at first vs drilling a couple holes. See my logic...so now the newer bumper is set up and ready to be installed. I am pretty satisfied with how it turned out though. Some rustoleum rust reformer as a primer/way to cover the blue paint and finish off the landau black to have the finished product on the hood. Even sprayed the back side of the marchals to make them look nice. Also got the aftermarket hitch assembly off. Got a NOS AMC one to toss on along with the appropriate wiring harness selection for it. That hitch was a blast to take off. Nothin like destroying rusted hardware to get the damn thing off. Almost dropped the gas tank to use a cut off wheel only to remember that I have nut splitters that can do the job more effectively. Also I hate the idea AMC came up with to mount the rear bumper, sure its highly effective but you gotta get a small wrench or ratchet up in between the mount itself to remove the top bumper bolts. Fun times, hopefully I can get it off, put on the NOS mounts and get the tire carrier on.

Yeah I can't imagine it being a newer Chrysler code. Its got to be an AMC/Chrysler code for when the customer wanted an MJ without the decals.

I have never seen that description before. This wouldn’t surprise me if this was a custom order thing.

*X4 -Q8 3LX AGJ Driver Assistance Group APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DCK 4SPD MANUAL TRANS EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MOLDINGS - VINYL LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) PB3 QB3 RAB Radio - AM/FM SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT WJD WHEELS - 15 X 7.0 STYLED STEEL Build date 2/21/88 Body code JM61 Sold by WILLIAM CLARKE JEEP-EAGLE, FREDERICKSBURG VA