boxyjeep

Slide it down the collar.

All done and working properly. Still pending wiring loom.

Honestly worth doing yourself if you can. I recently redid the harness in my Renix truck and have it super simplified with a Grand Cherokee relay/fuse box, no fusible links, and minimal wiring.

The front one is a pain to install with the dash in place. They connect to the drivers side exterior wall with bolts that thread into threaded inserts. I believe they mostly come into play during an accident to keep the column in place.

How much do you think this helps with keeping the engine bay clean? I've always just ripped these off (as they typically just get totally covered in leaky oil).

You trailered it and didn't take the opportunity to rip it around the neighborhood with open headers? :-)

I'd check really closely to make sure your IAC is working properly and wiring is sound. Beyond that, it sounds like an issue with the TPS or the coil/cap/rotor/wires. Check all of that stuff out. I also ran into a lot of idle issues with my '88 that took a long time to figure out. I'm in year 2 and believe it's been solved with a new cylinder head, but this is clearly one of the most problematic issues to fix.

The indicator cable and clip can be clipped onto the steering column collar at any position. You simply adjust it until it reflects correctly.

Did you try tightening the spring on the throttle body by taking it apart and winding it around a few more times?

I went with this Remote Start/Keyless Entry module in my '88 with 97+ doors. Pretty easy to install and setup. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O2EGYDM/ For the lock cylinders, if they aren't broken I'd just use the same ones and possibly reinforce the slotted opening in the door with some thicker steel. I have a good ignition cylinder and key, which I'm planning to match in my door locks. I snagged a handful of them from Jeeps the last time I was at the junkyard and plan on scavenging enough pins to re-key them to match.

Yep, I know. I've read this post before. I am running a '90 ECU as well. Will probably stick with the current setup for awhile and re-gear if power becomes a concern.

Nice. My truck has come a long way since the picture I posted. It's now a hodgepodge of colors after updating to 97+ front clip/fenders/doors and an unfaded/straight hood. Will be going with Chrysler Flame Red likely like this with black bumpers and body-color flares.

Yep, totally understand that (and I know "seat-of-the-pants" evaluations are BS to begin with). I'm planning to run a HO intake once I'm out of CA and don't have to deal with smog. I went through and rewired the whole Renix electrical system and can now fully appreciate it's simplicity ;-). With the HO head and intake/TB, I would expect some gains. But in all honesty, it's a 30+ year old truck that won't see much time on the road. If/when I need more power, I'll solve that with an LS swap or gears.

Yeah, I didn't have a leakdown test kit at the time, but should have started there. Will always be doing a compression and leakdown test on any new engines I get. From my initial seat of the pants testing, the HO head was well worth it. The truck feels completely woken up. I also plan to swap in a HO horseshoe intake and TB at some point soon, which should bring some additional improvements.

Thought you guys might want an update on this, since it seems like rough idle on Renix common problem. After fiddling with a variety of potential causes over the past year and using a REM to verify all sensors were good (I did replace the O2 sensor as recommended above), I finally ended up replacing the cylinder head. This solved the issue and it was clear upon removal that the old head had problems. The combustion chambers were rusty and I doubt the valves were sealing very well. Gasket didn't look too bad, but it was also leaking oil out of the passenger side of the block. I couldn't see any obvious cracks or warping, but I'm sure it wasn't true. Parts Replaced: IAC O2 Sensor Coolant sensor Knock Sensor Complete exhaust: manifold, cat, muffler Intake/exhaust gasket Injectors, Plugs & Wires, Distributor Timing chain (checked for tightness, not replaced) All of these parts incrementally improved how it ran, but never really fixed it. The PS pump would also constantly whine because the engine didn't have enough low RPM power to spin it fast enough. Moral of the story is to pull the cylinder head on any older trucks that aren't running well. Even if it is good, you'll also be able to check the cylinder walls, head gasket, etc, and verify everything looks good (and I'd suggest upgrading to a HO 7120 or 0630 head at the same time...).

Been following this build for a long time and am super impressed at how it's been going. Going to need more videos of that engine and some crazy burnouts.

Pics? How did this happen? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, thought you meant 2.8. I would assume the 2.5 would be the same throughout the years.

You would probably have luck finding the front portion from a Blazer or equivalent truck with the same engine and then modifying. Do you just need headers-->cat?

Spring perches from an XJ are about .5" to 1" off. You would need to re-weld them. Best bet is to grab an older Explorer 8.8. It has disc brakes, improved strength, no carrier break, and plenty of factory gearing/LSD options.

See above

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Hey! That's the same thing I'm doing. Except no extra harness. I'll try to attach some pics. I used a PDC/relay box from a Grand Cherokee.

What's wrong with your current harness? A lot of times it's easier to repair.

Any interest in making 97+ style body side moldings that would fit the MJ? Or 97+ rear flares?