Smokeyyank

Still not worth it IMHO. There's more than just pulling stuff on and swapping it over. WJ swaps on the D30 aren't even close to bolt on. You'll still need to source the better calipers that where on the later models 02-04 (akebono). Re drill brake rotors for the correct pattern. Track bar will need to be re positioned along with sway bar links.

Nope there where a few of the V8's that had the selctrac option. I'm currently trying to find one for my WJ. They aren't as available as a 247 but they are out there. I get it, I'm not saying a WJ is the best drivetrain out there but from talking with people the 545rfe isn't that bad. It's definitely not something I would try to swap into anything.

If you want to do a WJ swap you'll need a new D30 (unless you already swapped to a non cad) as the CAD axle is useless for that swap. The WJ D30 will be longer as runs CVs instead of u joints and I'm pretty sure is low pinion. Rear axle isn't great on them. Tranny IMHO is fine, 545rfe, its the 4.0 with the 42re that's garbage. But not like it would bolt up to a MJ. If its has the 242HD that is worth something but if not nothing special about the tcase.

If I where doing it I would -Replace control arms with WJ ones as you said -Replace the tie rod with a ZJ or soild one. -Replace all tre's with MOOG or something comparable. -New Coil isolator pads (as suggested) -Depending on how much of a rake you have you might need to put some taller coils or ACOS up front. You can add in upcountry coils for a little lift. OME will give you the best ride but are more $. -I'd add in BPE's -Decent set of shocks, Bilstiens will give you the best ride but are $ -Replace sway bar bushing and links. Quick discos or stock. -You can also upgrade your front sway bar to a thicker one. I know what they do but don't have any experience with it on a MJ so can;t say if it's worth while. -Upgrade the track bar or replace it. -Remove and repack the rear leafs and replace the bushings. -Make sure your u joints are good. -I'm a fan of replacing brakelines to stainless ones. Not necessary but I've always noticed improved brake feel when doing.

Not really just a "bolt up" deal but can be done easily enough if you got the tools, space and time. Yes the year matters and you might want to Frankenstein it to take advantage of the better parts during certain years. You don't have to but if youre going to do the swap might as well do it right. What tranny do you have? Auto or manny? Axles go with 97-99 it should be a front HPD30 non CAD with the bigger ujoints. If you by some chance have a D44 rear already (MJ gurus will know more about factory options than I do) keep it if not, you can upgrade it to a 8.25 is on the same years XJ 97-99 and is a great axle. You can also pull a 8.25 from a KJ and it will have disc. You'll need to reweld the perches though as MJs are sua and XJs are soa. ear will depend on if it was manual or auto. IIRC Auto should be 3.55 and manual is 3.05. Tcase you can either find a 231 or 242. 242 is nice if you see a lot of snow driving because it offers part time 4wd. If not 231 it a great case. There's a whole other topic on the "best" 231/242 I won't dive into but you can Google it. Drive shafts aren't a big deal. Just pull from whatever you get your tcase or axles from. Its probably best to goto a drive shaft place to have balanced and stretched if needed. You'll also need cross members, linkage, center console/shift area, plenty of beer and some extra hands.

I'm interested but would hinge on cost right now. Sorry if I missed it later back. In the process of building up my WJ but want some stiffners to go on the MJ. Id be on board if it helps getting a few more orders to get in going. Mines swb.

Rancho makes great stuff for soccer dads cruising to Starbucks in their JK. Not saying they make complete junk but I wouldnt give them a dime. Look at iron rock, ironman4x4, Stinkyfab, tNt, dirtbound to name a few. All good shops that and make quality products. Yeah it cost more but they are dudes dedicated to the unibody platform. They wheels what they build. I've never bought anything from Rustys a few guys I know run their stuff and like it but most of what the intrawebs and bumping into to people has told me is they make junk. I did call them when I was building an XJ a few years ago and customer service was sub par. Called up Iron rock guys knew their $#!& and Ive never had an issue with anything of thiers. If price is really your deciding factor than I would junkyard lift it. You can easily get 3" from OEM parts from other vehicles. Upcountry coils and a spacer will get your 3 up front. Bastard pack leafs in the back or chevy shackles IIRC, get a good track bar ZJ tie rod as you got and you'll be good.

I run General Grabbers, mi MJ is 100% on road and I really like those tires. Smooth on road and the few times I've found a dirt pile they've done fine. I found mine on eBay through discount tire direct. They had a promo for $100 off $400 or something. So i got mine really cheap. I suggest waiting until a holiday and you can find a good deal.

IIRC there was some XJ's that used a thicker sway bar. I do not think you can use a ZJ or WJ one because of mounting points. At least the WJ I imagine will be different because the geometry is entirely different. just wondering why you want to get an upgraded sway bar?

I'd look for something other than Rustys or RC. Much better vendors out there for the same cost. A lot of your rubbing issues will be based on your backspacing. The WJ arms do have a "notch" to help alleviate it. I'd vote for WJ arms over any fixed, they're cheaper and will accomplish the same thing. Really only Long arms or adjustables are a true upgrade.

Krustyballer on here is making up frame stiffners. Id suggest waiting for his to relase rather than getting the others. I havent done anything yet but apparently there's a major fitment issues with the others that are out there. Anywho.... Every axle will have its weak point and you're just selecting where you want tour fuse to be. Example, D30 you'll probably snap a ujoint before grenading the r/p. 37 s just become the tetter point for moving up to tons.

A 44/9 combo isn't bad. I have said axles that eventually will go under something just haven't figured out what. It is a great combo for running 35s-37s just not hard. Yes you can build them up to take the abuse but $ for $ tons will always win. Downside of tons is the weight. The 44/9 is a lot lighter, but if there is one thing I've learned from wheeling is that overbuilt is rarely a problem. You're alos going to need to add a good amount to the unibody and such to take the abuse of 37's.

What exact parts are you looking at? For the most part they are pretty much the same with subtle differences.

Honestly, I wouldn't even bother with a 44/9 combo for 37's. 35's sure but you're getting into an area that that axle combo will be pushed. For the amount of work/cost go with tons and be done.

WJ d30 won't bolt up. Not even close. You'll have to fab brackets and deal with other things. You can though do the WJ knuckle swap on the d30 which is a great upgrade but requires work and $. What size tires are you running? What terrain are you building it for? As pete said D30 and 8.25 is a solid axle choice. You "can" run 35s on them if properly built. Thats what I'll eventually run on mine.

I get it. It becomes one of those tools that you kind of need once and then that's it. Realistically you could probably sell it after your done and at the least break even on parts cost. More than likely pocket a few bucks.

No need to reivent to wheel. You're going to find that trial and error is going to put you out a lot more cash and time then going with something that others have already done. Yeah you can do it on the cheap but really if you have a crappy die your bends will look like $#!& and not do what you need. I'd go with a gottrikes plan for a bender. http://www.gottrikes.com Once I get moved its the route I'll be going.

3k for those axles isn't a bad deal especially if they are ready to bolt in. If you're running the 33's and the AX15 that would be a good all around combo.

Closed systems are a PITA. If you haven't you can upgrade you cap on the reservoir to the volvo one. It's flatter so it doesn't rub against the hood. Proper burping off the system is a huge issue. When I did mine I did as Pete said and pointed the nose of the truck downhill, filled the expansion tank about way left the cap off and started the truck. I would slowly add coolant as it went down (but you need to be careful since pressure is building up and the cap is off the coolant can volcano). I did that for a few minutes put the cap on took a little drive to get it up to temp and checked the fluid level.

I ran a WJ pump and Durango box on my XJ. It's not a simple bolt on and you need to do a good amount to make it work properly but, worked amazing. Turned my 33's with no effort. Doing just the pump won't net you a lot you need to upgrade the box to the durango box. Only down side is I fd my unibody because I didn't reinforce it properly. For the pump you need to retain the stock MJ fitting on the pump. Don't bore it out or use the WJ fitting as it won't work properly. You'll also need to modify your mounting bracket for the pump, basically either running longer bolts or tapping a thread on one of the mounting points. Make sure to block off the reservoir and you're good to go. If you do the durango box I suggest getting this https://www.c-rok4x4.com/c-rok-online-store/C-ROK-Cherokee-XJ-Durango-Reinforcing-Frame-Kit-p38115458

What can be done with the heads (outside a basic port and polish)? I've only been able to find reinforced seats as being really the only upgrade.

Exactly, always happy to support a local shop. The 4.7s actually move decently quick. I remember when I was a lot tech at a jeep dealer we would always take the overlands out and run the piss out of them. Pretty sure not how your supposed to break them in. I'll also probably do the 08+ intake swap, bored TB, full exhaust and a tune. Should be more than enough to get around in.

Oh I've looked at swap after swap; diesel, LS, 4.0. Unfortunately nothing that really makes a lot of sense other than swapping back in a stocker. I would really like to do a diesel swap but not in the cards right now. As for powertrain, I did consider them. They don't have the best reviews and they also jacked their price up, at least with the 4.7. Of all the bigger rebuilders S&J had some of the better reviews. I can't even count how many places I researched and spoke to. I went this morning and talked to a local shop and will probably go with them. Took some digging to find them but they do all their own machine work in house. The owner is the one that rebuilds everything and they have a few guys to install and do most the other basic items. They took me in back showed me around talked shop for a bit and have a killer price. Also asked them about addressing some of the issue, valve seats, oiling issues and guy knew exactly what I was talking about and what they do to help fix those. Hoping to offload the wifes KJ before it $#!&s the bed. It's at 175k now and she got it from her parents her dad took it the stealership religiously and I've kept on it ever since. All in all been a decent car only left us stranded once because of some fruity ignition issue, eats brakes like a mother but I'm guessing 75% of that is how my wife drives..........

I think they get a bad rap for the most part because people don't maintain them properly. Not saying they are perfect but they are finicky engines that don't like heat. Also a lot of the defects have been addressed now for the valves and oiling issues. I specifically wanted a used one needing an engine. Even after me rebuilding the engine and fixing basic maintenance items I'll still be ahead for any "quality" used car and I'll have a fresh engine along with a lot of other new items. As much as I love a 4.0 they are turds in a WJ. I'm driving my dads right now and it has no power. Also has the 42re which i think is junk. I debated on getting a 4.0 stroking it and putting a shift kit but then it became the issue of having to regear to push 32ish tires. Thought about a another XJ but family has outgrown that for the time. I could barely fit me, the wife, dogs and gear and with the kid now having something a little bit bigger is nice.

Overheating and valve seat issues. Due to to cast iron block with aluminum heads if they overheat they are basically toast. Heads have a problem with dropping seats. Really the only issues but with used it's a complete crap shoot.