Smokeyyank

With a rig like that you know they are good.

WJ axle is wider so that may be a problem on mounting CA. Don't think the steering will work as lengths will be different for the linkage. If you got a welder you can probably make it work with some effort but I don't think you are going to be able to loosely bolt up.

Bwhwhahahaha, I appreciate it more as I want to find a cls63. Things are sexy.

Great shocks. For parts you can reach out to a guy named Kolak. He's a vendor over on Jeepforum and a WJ guru. kolak@aol.com, his first name is Nick. He can get you the best the prices for parts and help guide you on some options as well. I've gone through him for most all my WJ parts.

Stock height or lifted? I run billis on my WJ. More expensive but ride great. Worth the investment if you're going to drive it a lot and for a while. Otherwise look at MX6 shocks.

Pics don't fully do it justice but I was driving yesterday and I pulled alongside this truck that was just overflowing with garbage. As I approached the cab to assess the type of individual that would be the captain of such a vessel all I could see was mounds and mounds of more trash. I truly have no idea how this person is even able to drive. Then my question was answered when the light turned green and they just sat there with horns blaring behind them.

My rig now but not my work. I'm still finishing it. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f88/tale-supermj-230263/

One of my old XJs had issues turned out to be a bad water pump. It was getting just a little too hot during the test and messed it up. O2 sensor and cats could also be something.

That's cool! If I can ever find the time and money I'd love to convert one of the NPR trucks to a camper.

True. Hers was an 07 so had the 42re. Thing constantly hunted for gears whenever going up a hill. Never downshifted when you wanted. Have the pedal mashed to the floor and it wouldn't down shift. Finally just started manually selecting gears to get it to go. It also developed a shudder that was annoying AF. Would just be driving and all of a sudden would feel like you're driving over a cattle grate. Need the solenoid and something else done. That was really early like 100kish.

Wife had a KJ and I hated it. Left us stranded twice. Once for an ignition switch that failed other for a fuel pump that took a dump. Sold it at 170k most of the service was done at the dealer as it was her mom's car before we got it. Dropped valve seats are a problem and the tranny is a piece of junk. Maintenance wise, I replaced the brakes almost every 30k, thing just ate brakes like crazy, water pump, coils and a few other things beyond basic maintenance. After the fuel pump went out is when it started having a lot of problems and why we sold it.

Not negative 20 about 20*

I can't remember the exact one, it is a Hayden but don't remember which one. It's fairly large. In regards to temps. I have a temp gauge on my WJ for the tranny. With it connected to the rad it was constantly at 190+ if it was a hot day it would go 200+, once I bypassed the rad I stay around 120-190 depending on the outside temp and what I'm doing. If it's hot (90+) and I'm towing a big load or creeping up a hill it's on the higher side. For driving around town unloaded rarely gets above 170 even in stop and go. My biggest reason for bypassing the rad was the leaks, the connectors where a constant issue and I got sick of tightening them. Here's my set up

4.10 would be the minimum, ideal would be closer to 4.56 for 33s. If you don't want to regear move down to 30-31s and it will be "manageable".

I'd bypass the rad. Even in cooler weather it's never been an issue for me. Heat kills transmissions not the cold. Yes it helps get it up to temp but ideal tranny temp is 165-170 and op temp of the 4.0 is 205. As for a cooler, a stacked plate cooler IIRC provides the best cooling but is on the more expensive side. I run a standard tube and fin and it's been fine.

I ran ACOS on my old MJ. I liked it but I bought it for future down the road adjustments and fine tuning the front, ie added weight from bumper, sagging, etc. Spacers would probably be fine if you wanted a cheaper route. Another thing to consider is there is a natural rake so the coils are probably fine but it's the rake. The bump stop isn't adjustable just extended.

Yes and no, upgraded tie is really only a upgrade for wheeling. If you bash it on a rock don't want it to taco. If your 2wd is a track car then would be beneficial. If it's stock just get a ZJ tierod if you want some extra strength.

Saw this beaut driving home from football. So many things going on. Two tandem axles on the rear, a few grills, topper on the camper.....Just soooo many things.

From my experience I'd find a used Honda or Toyota. Just need something simple and reliable that doesn't have a ton of space. If you have a truck you're always going to be asked to move stuff and haul people. If you have a minivan you're always going to be asked to haul people. I'd also find something that's easy to park. My first year in the dorms I had a massively lifted k5. I couldn't park anywhere and it was an absolute headache but everyone always wanted to take it because it was basically a monster truck. It was cool but not at all practical.

What's your budget? Speaking soley from a mpg point something that gets 30+ is huge plus especially with current gas prices.

I got a dollar....