ghetdjc320

Driveshaft lengths are off by about 2-2.5”. Had to also notch the crossmember and re-weld it shut as the np242 has a larger case

Looking good!

Lots more fab and custom work. For reference, I’m running the Dakota digital 128k ppm vss that screws on to the original long shaft speed sender. I have the Dakota converter box as well but really didn’t like the idea of using it as it doesn’t have the native resolution of the original sensor. I’ll use the LS ecu output to provide the stock speedo and tach signals. Also running a custom PDC. I have a bussed 6 relay kit along with a 10 position power distribution block. Running a Wix LS filter/regulator with all AN fittings. On another note, looks like I may be close to stock driveshaft lengths in the end

I did as well in my current build. Wasn’t even planning to use the original seat belts in mine. It was tough to spec out a sub that fit the air space but I still think it would be a great idea.

You hit the nail on the head there. Been watching these for a bit and here is my $.02: I made brackets like these a couple of years ago but the b pillar panels really shrouds the speaker. A larger simple grill with about a 1/2” rise to it would accommodate a full depth speaker. Second issue is trying to dampen the rear of any installed speaker. The front of the speaker should ideally be isolated from the rear of the speaker. This would involve an even larger bracket that could provide a bit of a baffle. Getting the speaker out closer to the b pillar plastic though would be best along with a simple grill. Would be easy to fab like a 6x6 grill from 1/2” mdf and throw on some speaker cloth material. Remove the existing plastic grill and open up the opening a bit more. It won’t be factory but it would be a clean install and provide better sound.

On mine, the top corners had solder but the lowers did not. I used seam sealer on all the overlap joints. Also used some to form a bit of a slope in the corners to get the water to flow out better. I’ll see if I can find some pics of what I did.

I guess I Can comment on the topic. After more research, it’s a very simple design. The cross cab harness does incorporate a few extra items that will not be used and I’ll be adding the wiring for the power mirrors but the windows and locks are straight forward. The tan single wire get fused 12v from the fuse box and is the power window + input. The ground is the black 14awg wire that is in the green connector. With those two wires plugged in all the windows work. The door locks are a “positive” switches setup. You’ll need to 5 pin micro relays along with the terminals and sockets. I’m using the factory electrical manual to recreate the relay configuration needed. Will post up the info on my build thread once I get to interior electrical.

That’s also the reason why I cringe at someone saying they have a “rust free” truck. It’s hiding there somewhere, you just can’t see it yet. Factory workmanship was horrendous, though probably on-par for that time period. It will be great knowing that it’s done right

Lot of small things accomplished. Fabed up a bracket and relocated the power steering reservoir to clear the intake. The bottom of the reservoir is still higher than the top of the pump for a good gravity feed. Planning and engineering the layout under the hood is quite a task. Once the components are all where they need to be, wiring will commence which is actually the easier part at this point. Still have to install the accessories tray for the compressor and pdc area, install the condenser, compressor, radiator overflow and starter.

Lower radiator hose installed. Added an inline spot for temp probe but also had to add a ground to the sensor body since it can’t get engine ground where it’s at. Complete the intake as well. Building the shelf for the electronics and compressor now.

Forgot to mention, but make sure you have a small unobstructed and sealed “channel” in each lower corner of the windshield frame that will allow water to drain out down through the cowl to fender seam.

Yep that should work. Just give that aersosol 2 part epoxy some heat to cure if you can. Once it dries to the touch and is no longer soft, hit it with a heat gun, heat lamp or just leave it in the sun for several hours. I’ve noticed the aerosol 2k primers take longer to cure as hard as the ones you mix and shoot in a gun. If you can, I’d even give it a few days to cure.

I used one of those oscillating tools with a fine metal blade. It works excellent and save a lot of time removing all the old urethane. Also cleans up the rust very nicely. I would suggest some POR15 followed by some good medium bodied 2 part seam sealer in those corner seams. The medium bodied stuff should flow into the seams a bit. When it’s all done, mask off surrounding areas and shoot it with 2 part Roxy primer and let that cure before installing the windshield

The core is a solid 3.25” thick. It’s quite an epic radiator

Will fab up a bracket to relocate the power steering reservoir to the drivers side inner fender. The bottom of the outlet will be at 37” from the ground and the top of the inlet is at 35” so there should be zero starvation issues there. Will take some creative hose routing though for sure.

Going to extend the intake 3” longer to get it closer to the factory position. Tight fit but was able to keep 4” tubing throughout and it looks very clean. I just didn’t want the intake in the hot side of the radiator. I’ll duct the original opening for the air intake to dump right on the new filter.

Coming along nicely. Can’t say enough about this Novak radiator. I bought the complete system with fans and shroud all pre-assembled. All the fans are genuine Spal units and the hot side of the radiator has a larger fan that the other two aux fans. It also just so happens that the word “Comanche” is the same length as the word “corvette”… that leads to an interesting idea

Keep in mind that this isn’t a cover they stock. They can custom make it though but you’ll have to send them the specs. I ordered mine February of last year.

I have one I’d like to get tested and repaired. Let me know

So I have between a 94-96 XJ 2dr door and cross cab harnesses. I have the door locks and window motors all wired to the harness and have connected the cross cab harness as well. Each end of the cross cab harness has a connector that plugs into the door harness. I need to identify what three of these connectors go to as I don’t have an oem harness to connect it to so I’ll have to build it and improvise. Here is what I have so far. In picture 1 (drivers side), I assume this is the power window power wire that goes to the fuse box but would like to get confirmation In picture 2 (drivers side), I need to identify what circuits connect to this green connector. I’m assuming again that door lock relays connect here along with maybe power and grounds? Need some info on this. In the third picture (passenger side), I need to identify what circuits plug into this grey connector. In pictures 4 (passenger side), I believe this is the connector for keyless entry as those two wires are for the door locks only. If someone can confirm that would be great. Thanks in advance for any help as I get this wiring sorted. For reference, this is part of my “Tomahawk” build project in Epoc Tech. I’m running a 23 circuit painless harness. I have fused circuits from the fuse box for both the power windows and locks. I also have a simple 1-way Viper keyless entry/alarm module I’ll be installing.

I did and I’m in the process of identifying everything. The power windows are very simple as they pretty much just get power and ground and the harness takes care of the rest. The power locks are a bit more complex as they use a relay system I’m trying to figure out to integrate into the harness. My harnesses are from a 94-96 XJ. I’m about to post some tech questions about this harness setup to get some insight on the connectors.

Full size power glass installed with 97+ regulators and power locks installed. Lots of work but I was able to mirror the other side that I had already done.

Made new door handle gaskets. Also going to get these wheels wrapped in some 31” BFGs

Yes it is. I was able to get the company to make another custom one

By far the nicest bed cover I’ve ever come across.