ghetdjc320

about the same chances as winning the lottery.

The Rubicon 44’s use them outside of the bearings because of the lockers. Otherwise they are the same as all 44’s and are normally inboard of the bearings from the factory. I agree 100% that it’s actually a much easier install when they are inside the bearings. But for setting up new gear that will mean that you will need to use setup bearings or have a true carrier/pinion bearing puller. It is highly unlikely that you will hit the right specs on the forest try. Then again, sometimes people hit a hole in one lol

HP Dana 30’s should have the shims inboard of the bearings from factory unless you have an aftermarket carrier that is designed to accommodate them on the outside. Dana 35 is reversed and has the shims outside of the carrier bearings by default. If you have setup bearings than installing the shims invoard of the bearings is actually a much easier install than trying to get shims outboard of the bearings. You can use a case spreader “very carefully” but that will be yet another tool that the OP may not have.

Your job just got a lot harder if the bearings are already on. For the Dana 30 the shims go inside the bearings which means pulling the bearings frequently or using setup bearings to get your backlash set properly. Never done an 8.25 so you have to check that one. The Dana 35 is relatively easy to set since the shims go outside of the bearings.

I’ve done gears about 4-5 times so I am by no means an expert though

You will at the minimum need a decent press, dial indicator, in lbs beam style torque wrench, dial indicator (recommend a mechanical one with .001 increments) and usual hand tools. I highly recommend a “clamshell” style carrier/pinion bearing tool. You will also need a gear install kit and gear marking compound. Ultimately, it’s not terribly difficult to do but you need to really understand the process well before starting. Preload, pinion depth and backlash need to be well within spec or you’ll damage your gears in short order. Keep in mind that many shops do not even really know how to setup gears.

Just did mine. After removal I used a propane torch on the back side of the trim and the vinyl wrap came right off. A bit of wire wheel and some paint and they look like new

Needing the part in the pic. Let me know what you have, need one ASAP. Just need the vertical piece circled. Don’t care what color it is. Thanks!

Looking for a full set of mud flaps without the white Amc logo. Just the standard Jeep ones. Will take good use or nos. Let me know what you have

Vanco makes good kits but I’ve had poor customer support. It’s difficult to get anyone to follow up over there. I ordered a kit that was supposed to be ready in about 7 days after a month I asked for a refund. Poor communication. Hydratech and Talon hydraulics made a much nicer setup with a billet aluminum mount and stainless hoses. The Vanco kit just uses the typical universal “corvette” style booster. The other companies will let you upgrade to wilwood components. It cost me a good amount but the brakes were insanely good

I absolutely recommend hydroboost. I had Talon Hydraulics build my hydroboost unit with a wilwood MC and proportioning valve. I used the psc steering pump with remote reservoir and the stopping power was absolutely incredible. Was thinking about doing this to my MJ but am using an electric vacuum assist dual diaphragm setup that works well for now.

Also check your valve cover breathers and make sure they are all clear and functional

I’d recommend you try to track down exactly where the leaks are coming from. A bad water pump won’t directly cause your radiator to leak and it’s rare for a head gasket to allow an oil leak (but not impossible). That being said, you will need at least the following: head gasket (get a mls gasket) head bolts intake/exhaust gasket thermostat housing gasket water pump water pump gasket may be forgetting a few items. Id also recommend you replace your valve cover gasket. Felpro permadry are my favorites for valve cover gaskets. Reflex 10-001 would be my recommendation for the intake/exhaust gasket. Cometic makes great head gaskets but it is probably overkill for your build. Mopar/felpro/Víctor Reinz all have nice mls gaskets. With the head off, you could do lifters, cam, valve stem seals, timing set etc. as needed and the list goes on. Flowkooler makes a great water pump with a billet aluminum impeller and High quality bearings.

I would say perhaps a 1.125 bore master. Blaine from black magic brakes can help you find what you need for sure

What size pistons are in your calipers? You need to know the total piston surface area for your breaking system before choosing the right size master.

I ran the 260-11179 valve. Has a nice bracket to bolt to the MC too

I ran the wilwood setup on my YJ with hydroboost brakes and it worked great. It’s not a “true” proportioning valve but it does help distribute the load. A true proportioning valve dynamically adjusts instead of just being a static reduction in pressure. The stock mj distribution block works just fine though for stock brake setups. Be sure to check the vacuum going to the booster and don’t get too big of a master cylinder bore. Some black magic pads will help also.

Pitman arms are not generally wear items. If it has been modified then possibly

“IF” you like the looks of bedlined trucks. I’ve seen very few that look decent. Too many use it as a bandaid for bad body work and coverups. Done well though, the results can be decent.

I’ve seen good results with monstaliner and it’s pretty uv stable which is a big plus. Raptor gives a nice finish.

Gotta love Eastwood

Dropped them off to get cleared already. I may use some wax also but ultimately wax just doesn’t hold up very long. Not sure how it would hold up long term on plastic also

Headlights have arrived. Morimoto mini h1 projectors and ballasts. Just polished the lenses and they are perfect. There are so many copy cat lights out there but finding 7x6 (mj/xj/yj size) true projectors is getting hard. GTR lighting and Starr HID have both discontinued them. Rugged retrofits said the housings don’t exist anymore. LEDs have mostly taken over the market but true hid projectors are still my favorites by far.

I would have bought it...

what was it that made them bubble?