ghetdjc320

I just made my own using the ruff stuff heim steering kit with 7/8” heims. This requires a 3/4” through hole on the knuckles

Just tagging those who were looking for a rebuilt deck earlier: @All around mj @ValpoManche @Torq_Shep @derf May also be interested in a few extra cores if anyone has some they'd like to get rid of. Shoot me a PM

Here is also another member who has good experience with body work as well as some diy info @89 MJ

You need to remove any and all oxidation so you’ll have to see how much sanding is required to remove that. You also don’t want to paint over any existing clear. The factory base coat is very thin and will likely sand right off after you get through the clear. Other than that it’s all about good surface prep. I’d recommend a good epoxy primer over any bare metal. Make sure to apply a good sealer over all your body work and any existin base coats you intend to paint over. The sealer gives you a nice uniform substrate and seals out any previous work. You also need a decent sprayer and compressor to get the right finish. Here is my personal preference and setup. PPG Epoxy, Sealer, Base and Clear Devilbiss sprayer with 1.8 tip for epoxy, 1.4 for sealer and base and 1.2 for clear. i always shoot 4 coats of base and 6 of clear so I can cut and polish off a couple of coats for a perfect finish.

It could also be they jacked up the price because they are out of stock and don’t want any orders they can’t fill. I see that on eBay sometimes.

Do both the bezels line up on the deck the same? Same spacing between the blower switch and slider controls?

Sounds good, and you wanted to see about using the old style bezel on a new style deck correct?

Somehow it will have to be rehydrated as suggested. The thermal printing type may be another story. First and foremost though, it needs to be flattened.

I’ve used them for the tailgate letter a couple of times now too. Good quality

If anyone is following this, I may be interested in a few more used control decks if you want to snag some from your next junkyard run.

If the knuckles are not reamed, consider the Currie CE-9701 kit. It’s a kit for stock Jeep size tapers but is a super strong kit

If those are GM 1tin TRE’s then just get an ES2233L. That kit looks a lot like the JCR kit but there are many copies and manufacturers making similar kits. Here is a link for all the replacement TRE’s if they are indeed the GM 1 tons. https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/1TS-TRE-KIT.html

First off, the previous posts are valid comments that provide some good insight to help you decide what to do. Here is some further reading that may help answer some questions:

I can’t tell for sure but that looks like those may be GM 1 ton tie rod ends in which case the knuckles and pitman arm would have been reamed out to fit them. If they are the GM 1 tons, pretty much any auto parts store will have those parts on the shelf. ES2234L is the passenger side moog part number. It should cross reference at the parts store. If it’s not a 1 ton end then it should just be a standard Jeep end but obviously that steering configuration is not stock for an MJ. If the GM one doesn’t fit check out a passenger tie rod end for an 88 Jeep YJ (just a random year that should have a separate tie rod end that isn’t integral to the drag link)

Was able to shoot some pictures of the nighttime illumination using a white LED. With a standard incandescent “74” bulb the glow is the factory greenish color that matches most other items on the dash. the white led provides plenty of illumination but will look blue on the lettering due to the oem color filters.

Did the tie rod end just fall out of the steering knuckle? Missing a cotter pin?

I’d be up for that! That way members will be active when I post lol. About 4pm my time comanche club goes silent.

I used to use an eBay harness before swapping to HID’s the male headlight adapter connector always had pins coming loose. The wiring was significantly undersized as well. The amount of insulation on those wires makes them seem 14awg but the actual copper was right at 18awg. The included relays were not meant to handle the constant on duty either and had to be replaced in short order. I’d just build my own harness with some quality sealed motorcycle style relays and quality wire and connectors. I’d also do a 30/40 amp relay setup vs the 30/30 setups they normally come with.

Any ideas on this connector for my tail lights on my 91? Doesn’t seem to be what I’ve seen on here.

If either of those the relays are failing intermittently that could cause the issue. Other issue could be the ecu connector. You can try removing it, cleaning it all out and reinstalling. The ASD circuit basically feeds power to the injectors and coil so the ecu can control the ground side pulse.

Have you tried replacing the ASD relay in the power distribution center. Or fuel pump relay also?

Sounds good. Just shoot me a PM before you send anything so I can make sure you have minimal down time

First batch of two completed.

I would need an original to do that with but yes it’s possible.