SatiricalHen

Jeep Comanche MJ manual 4wd/AWD swap with an ax-15 transmission and a 242 transfercase Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have no clue, it’s what was on the truck when I bought it and that’s where it was when I bought it. It has fixed welded brackets on it so there’s no way to adjust it without cutting and welding which I just haven’t done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bumper is definitely crooked, but looking at the latches the right side hits the slopes portion and the left side his the flat so no matter how hard I slam it currently it just hits the flat and won’t close. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hard to tell, but it’s tighter at the top on the drivers side and a little low, then wider at the top on the passenger side

My tailgate seems kinda cocked to one side and the top of the tailgate is kinda crumpled down like someone backed into something with the tailgate down. Well it’s made it so the tailgate sits crooked and I have to pull the handle to get the tailgate to close and I have to push on the corner to get the tailgate to latch both sides. I’m completely lost when it comes to adjusting any sort of hinges and getting stuff like that correct. In fact all 4 doors on my Cherokee need to be adjusted as well as the hatch and both doors on the Comanche aren’t quite right, but I attempted adjusting once and I think I made it worse than it was before. Anyway, long winded rambling, but has anyone adjusted a tailgate on one of these and have tips/tricks/recommendations? I don’t care to be slamming my tailgate or anything I just want to be able to easily close it and it not appear crooked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was having some issues with my fan wiring since the PO had completely unplugged/bypassed all the fan stuff and wired it to a switch on the dash. Anywho, got it all working again with the fan coming on with the temp switch and with the AC. In my Comanche it seems there is a pair of plugs that are integrated into the main harness that go to one relay which is temp switch only, then there is another harness that looks like an after thought that works with the AC and with the temp switch. I’m wondering if these two harnesses both run off the same fusible link, or if they’re completely separate systems. If they’re completely separate systems that leads me to believe I could run a second electric fan using the second set of factory plugs and not overload the fusible link. Just kind of thinking out loud here. Anyone have an opinion or suggestion one way or the other?

When I rebuilt my Comanche engine I used a HO head, 99+ intake and bored TB and it’s done well with the mild comp cam I put in it. The TB spacer is a waste of money and will do nothing. With my Cherokee stroker I went with the 4.2 crank and 4.0 rods combo and from what I’ve seen/heard that’s now the way to go since there’s so many piston options out there now for that combo. from what I’ve head, the renix system actually does better with modifications and getting the most out of it. The renix system uses a knock sensor so it will advance the timing more aggressively since it can recognize knocking and back the timing off then, a HO doesn’t use a knock sensor so it more conservatively tunes the system to avoid knocking. high flow oil pumps are known to cause excessive wear on the distributor and cam gear and wear them out prematurely, personally I went with stock flow oil pumps in both my rebuilds and they have more than enough oil pressure. I personally used stock water pumps and thermostats/thermostat housings on my engine builds and they’ve been fine. I would stick with the horseshoe intake I’ve never had an issue with vacuum on either of my engine builds, and friends have never had issues on theirs. only cold air intake worth doing is a thor/spectra cowl intake. The filter laying in the engine bay is much worse than a stock air box, I personally kept stock air boxes both. I have no experience with catch cans so I can’t comment on that. all of this is just what I’ve heard/seen and personal preference so take it how you want

I have a pair of used unit bearing style knuckles. When using the unit bearing knuckles you need to put a “plug” in the unit bearing since the unit bearing preload is set with the axle shaft. I’ve used broken axle shafts when I couldn’t find the 2wd stub pieces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a pretty shift knob, I’ve looked at a lot of shift knobs online because it’s fascinating all the things people can make and incorporate into a shift knob. Compared to many I’ve seen online that price is very reasonable and the craftsmanship warrants the price. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nothing huge, but I couldn’t convince myself to drill holes into the top of the bed rail for the tool box, and the crappy clamp things that were holding it in before were letting it move around, so here’s my solution. I took a piece of angle and put some nutserts into the bed rail and then a nutsert into the angle and hopefully it’ll stay. Even with the tool box removed I think the nutserts on that lip look cleaner than holes in the top of the bed rail.

I wandered around a junkyard till I found one that looked like the right size. It’s more fun than ordering parts online, but the one I pulled was from a Ford ranger. It eventually fell off and then I just used a coat hanger to keep the window “locked” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just stick it as high as you can in the engine bay with some zip ties. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recently installed a 242 and on right turns it’s seems lurchy in full-time 4wd almost like part time 4wd, but I jacked one tire up and it spun freely so it’s definitely in full-time. I assume the u joints just are making it do that, but I was wondering if anyone else has had similar experiences. I’m assuming I could slap some CV shafts from a ZJ in there and it’ll be smooth, but I also have no experience with those and how well they would hold up to abusive driving. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1987 Wagoneer saved from the weeds in Tennessee, currently in Georgia awaiting some floor repair and other things here and there. Hopefully will be back driving on the roads again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was thinking about doing that. I don’t know if I’m better off buying used in a junkyard or buying new from a parts store. I know my Toyota friends say that oem Toyota CVs are much beefier than what parts store offer, but I don’t know if the same applies for ZJ shafts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I think AWD would be much better with CV shafts, sometimes with tight turns it seems I can feel the u joints some, or possibly there is something wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the exhaust rerouted today and put the front driveshaft in, wow is that fun. AWD launches on a dirt road are too much for the clamp style tool box mounts. I’m going to have to drill holes and actually mount the tool box firmly I believe. It flew back and hit the wheel wells when I launched it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got to my buddy’s shop Friday morning, started with checking if the track bar hole was wallowed out. Bolt measured 9.7mm hole was 11.3mm so I drilled it to 1/2” and made a flag nut and thought boom easy done. Nope, the nut must have warped or something when I welded the flag on and it seized to the bolt once the threads broke through the back side and I ended up having to saw the bolt off and go buy a new one. There was a trip to harbor freight so my buddy could get a press and a trip for lunch as well thrown in there. Get the bolt and nut finally working, took it for a test drive to the parts store to get a part for my buddy. Three or so bouts of less violent death wobble and we made it to the parts store, so then we headed back and smoke started billowing out of the truck and we thought the clutch was smoked. Turns out the left front brake was dragging just enough to really heat up. Turns out there were 99+ rotors on the axle with pre 99 unit bearings so then I had to swap some used unit bearings my buddy had onto the truck and I did a tape measure alignment. Drove it around the block with no wobble after hitting bumps. Got back and helped work on another friends transfercase swap, then successfully drove it 30 minutes home without a wobble. Still need to fix the starter slightly grinding, the tcase seeps so little I won’t worry about that for a while, the tcase linkage, the exhaust stuff, even with a new trans mount the exhaust hanger is hitting the crossmember and waiting on speedo stuff to get here for the speedometer to work. The tie rod ends all feel pretty tight, but they’re probably still factory so I’m thinking about replacing them since the boots are pretty hard and probably not in very good condition anymore. So I took a functioning truck with very minor very ignorable problems and made it so much worse, but maybe hopefully soon it’ll be great and reliable again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those brackets are like $80 used if I remember correctly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In reply to most of the posts. I don’t need the lights, I know the pattern, but I’d like to make it as OEM as possible. Eventually I’ll be selling it and maybe the next person will need the lights, I don’t know. Definitely doesn’t hurt to have them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, I’ll need to find out the pin out of the 4 pin plug and then I should be able to make it work I assume. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think if I could find where the wiring for the 4wd light stuff goes on the body side of the Jeep I could get the 4 pin connector to work. I just have no clue where the body side stuff is Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a pair of those behind the window vent panel things I saved from the crusher if you’d be interested in them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You a fan of 2 door pieces? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bolts right in, only thing you’d “need” to change is the shift gate and the little panel with the zones on it. I have need in quotes because I’ve heard the 231 gate can be modified and if you know the pattern you don’t really need the plastic panel that tells you the pattern. Advantage is full time 4wd. Disadvantage is there isn’t as much aftermarket support. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk