Swampy

so what would be tow rating on a 2.5l with an ax15? 2000lbs?

For those of us that still love our 4 screaming squirrels, here is a little necessary upgrade/Egr Delete The manifold I used was from a 2.5l yj ( a knock off pacesetter header from ebay) Header Link and EGR Block off plate There are going to have to be some modifications, the new mid pipe is shorter than the original, so you can either lengthen your new mid pipe or lengthen youe existing exhaust set up if you are going to reuse it It is short about 1-1.5 ft, so it gives you the opportunity to run a new exhaust if you want

probably going to pick up a bottle it 2 of under coating just to give them something fresh, The are in good condition just thinking of taking advantage of the fact that the bed is off. I had the same reasoning when choosing to go with the monstaliner, I didn't want to get a nice paint job and pay for it when it is going to get scratched and ruined when the truck sees some trails. Most paint shops told me $600 if I did all the body work myself. Less than $400 I was able to buy the mostaliner, do the body work and have it all painted. I should have removed the door handles but I didnt know how to do that

keeping an eye on this because I have to do the same thing to my 2.5l

The art of flipping cars, I wish I had some more knowledge and space to be able to do that

Today was a long, somewhat stressful but productive day. Finished taping everything off and removing what trim pieces I could like mirrors I waited for the girlfriend, we began mixing paint and going at it The color is predator green from Monstaliner It came out awesome for my first attempt ever trying a product like this or painting a whole vehicle for that matter (this is only the first coat before we applied the second coat) I primarily used a roller and a brush and it seemed to be all we needed to get the job done. I tried my best to do a good job, there are some parts that could use some more paint, or my taping could have been better but all in all it came out good for doing it in a backyard and minimal vegetation and bug landing on wet paint. If I had to do it over again, I would do some more disassembly and better taping skills. Its experience and you can learn from it. Here is a shot of the passenger door done, 2 coats of monstaliner. I'll get more pictures when I put it all back together

If its just the gear set it shouldn't be different. I don't know if the install kits are different between the two, hopefully someone else will chim in on this as well

This is the week my hunk of junk should be all the same color! Tomorrow to be more specific Earlier this week I pulled the bed off with the help of a buddy, surprised how good of a condition my fuel tank, frame rails and underside of the bed are. My rear frame rails were extremely dirty I am in the process of cleaning them, just don't know if I should coat them or just leave them as is for now with just 2 people the bed is very easy to move around. Had to get an extra trap to "extend" my carport as part of the paint prep because the monstaliner can't be painted on hot metal that has been sitting in direct sunlight. It Sure looks funny but it gets the job done I only need it to work for a few hours tomorrow. Jeep definitely looks a bit odd with no bed The one thing I don't like about painting so far is all the prep work involved, well mostly because I want it to look good This was some duplicolor bed armour my friend had laying around (not the best but a free gallon) I started the inside of the bed and the tailgate. I was painting with a brush and it was a bit tricky to get the texture I was looking for but its as good as its going to get. I am probably going to do some touch ups tomorrow as I paint the exterior of the truck Nervous and excited to get this painting process started and finished. I have some left over of the duplicolor so I don't know if I should use that for the frame rails or paint the rear bumper with it

Sorry Bud I don't have the seat anymore. The bench was shot

I like that hose clamp idea, I might just throw 2 on there

Try looking again. even though they are the same axle it is different. the splines refers to the number of splines on the axle shaft, I believe (correct me if I am wrong) the split between 27 and 29 spline 8.25 axles is 1999, or 1997 not sure. I know my 8.25 axle was out of a 2000 xj so I have 29 spline axle shafts. The only difference is the axle shafts and they can be swapped between housings if you swap the correct parts as well (spider gears, locker, carrier etc) But you will be able to use the gear set you found, if it is only a ring and pinion set there should be no interference as far as I am aware of. The issue of spline count would only come about when swapping carriers or installing a locker. Hope this helps

That may have to be a whole other topic in the pub. But I far as I was concerned, especially with the 4banger jeeps, the manuals could tow more weight than the autos. I may be mistaken

Wow.... makes me want to get another one and keep it all clean, stock and well taken care of like this one

I have a 2.5l comanche too. As far as I can tell its a great little engine. I don't have as much experience with it as other members and I haven't really driven my comanche on the road but it seems to be great especially if it is running properly. It is the same as a 4.0l with the middle 2 cylinders removed. The main reason people dog on them is that they most probably don't have the correct gearing for the tires they want to run. the only downside is to get any real increase in power you have to stroke the engine. other than that it seems like a great little engine

What engine do you have in your comanche?

Thanks! I'm pretty amazed myself, how well it is coming together and how I am doing this mostly on my own with some help of friends and the forum for help

Looks awesome bud

Thinking about building mid arms in the future

I have done soa in the rear w/ 2wd leafs, adjustable control arms upper and lowers, with 4.5" coils and a 1.5" spacer. sitting right around 6 inches of lift and the truck is sitting pretty level. The only gripe I have with my lift is that I can only go 31s right now because I don't have money for tires and a regear any higher than what I am at right now I need either control arm drop brackets or long arms or custom short arms

Got a few updates done on Wendy showing her some love First off I was making some new battery cables I also painted the black trim on the tail lights and smoked the tail lights with plastidip (the picture mocked up on the jeep does not have the glossifier coats on the light, the last picture is the finished product 6 coats of smoke and 3 coats of glossifier) The new header I had got that installed too. It is intended for a 2.5l yj but it fit good in the mj the only concern is that the down pipe is too short it leaves about 1-1.5 feet before it can meet your preexisting exhaust. its not a huge problem just gotta lengthen either your new down pipe or your exhaust that is in place And of course the first obligatory flex picture of the jeep. Its a baby flex but oh well Next week she is getting the bed taken off, the whole truck prepped and painted. Hopefully next week as well it will be registered and on the road

It was just a loose fuse for the brake lights haha. But thanks for the tip. it may help someone else as well

This is what I am installing. don't know with the count as long tube or short.

Hey guys, as some of you may know my oil pressure sending unit fitting broke flush with the block and this is a write up on how to get it out. Yes there are several ways to get this fitting out, such as pulling the engine, removing the engine mount etc. This is what worked for me and can be used as a reference for other 2.5l renix owners. This problem started when I swapped my cluster from the dummy lights to a full cluster. The oil pressure switch ( which turns on the dummy light if oil pressure goes down) does not work with the full cluster. I got the oil pressure sending unit and it is a direct swap, so i thought it was going to be a 20 min job at the most. As I am trying to loosen the original switch the fitting it screws into breaks flush with the block. After singing like a sailor, i started scratching my head. Attempt #1 I thought about using a 5/16 extractor bit. The bit fits into the hole but without removing the engine mount there is not enough room to be able to get a drill to spin it out. Attempt #2 I ran to Home depot with the advice of some of my fellow members and got a set of pipe nipple extrators These would have been perfect if it fit into the hole of the fitting. It would work beautifully but since a hammer doesn't fit to tap in the extractor. Attempt #3 So the next attempt was getting a small metal cutting blade and modifying it w/ an angle grinder to fit into the fitting Before cutting away at the fitting, I removed the alternator and the ac compressor Covering the blade in grease carefully cut 2 grooves into the fitting on opposite sides, either top and bottom or left and right. Once the grooves are cut get yourself a flat head screwdriver (one that is just as wide as the fitting) slide it into the grooves and carefully back it out

I'm doing it on mine. And I am not sure how the new header and midpipe will affect the sound of the exhaust

With or without the egr delete