Swampy

I don't know about the brackets. Seems like they are either limitied supply or have to be built on your own. I am no fabricator but rear 4 link is a cool idea

These are some ideas I will look into tomorrow

Here are some pictures

Hey guys I was wrenching on the jepp today and nothing good happened. The plan was to go in and remove the oil pressure light switch in favor of the oil pressure sending unit I have for the gauge to read properly. As I was trying to take the old one out *SNAP* the 90° brass fitting snapped at the block. I am trying to figure out what to do. I have tried an extractor bit but the drill doesnt fit the the space and the engine mount is in the way. I will post up pics soon

I like this idea how would the tailgate be secured?

Onboard air? Now thats a thought

Yup I found my old alternator in the bed of the truck noticed the pulley was pushed out farther, swapped the pulleys and everything is aligned properly now. Thanks for the help

Upon further inspection, the pulley itself on the older alternator seems farther out, i will grab some pics in the morning

I should still ahve the old alternator so I will look at it and see if there is any difference. Would I pe able to just space out the pulley part?

Is there another way besides cut and weld because I don't have a welder on hand. Also how does his setup in the video seam to be in alignment I am sorry I am bothering so much I just wanted to try and fix it Wednesday morning

Its definitely weird. As I am trying to figure it out, it explains why the 2.5l belt from rockauto.com was too short and didnt fit. And similarly to that youtube video you linked. My alternator falls into a bracket that doesnt really make it possible to space it foward

it does look out of alignment and i am scratching my head as to how to get it back into alignment. And the alternator is from rockauto.com Alternator Link p/n: REMY 20349

I hope it is explained well enough and serves its purpose to help someone

This is the best picture I have at the moment. You can kind of see the ac under the alternator and the idler pulley i was talking about

It is an 88 2.5 as far as I know. It does not have mpi so its definitely renix. Unlike your engine my ac and alternator seem to be switched with an idler pully next to the alternator. I read somewhere that this switch was done either from factory or after for better water foarging abilities but idk

Hey guys I need help to fix my belt issue. My comanche has shredded 2 belts and I want to come ask before I go buy another belt and it gets shredded again. I was looking at my pulleys and it looks like my alternator is not aligned. Is this the cause of the problem? If so how can I fix it

I was going to beline my fender flares. I was just going to cleam them, scuff/sand, clean and paint

I forgot to mention how to hook up the parking brake... They way I am going to do it is by first ordering new comanche parking brake cables because mine some how were fraying and no good and ordering these little adapters made by The Flop Shop Offroad <---- hyperlinked the website The e-brake cable adapters should let you use your stock cables with out having to mess with much else. They can be found under the XJ category

I have almost the same rear bumper, mine just has a few rust holes and an integrated hitch. It looks like you my friend have had the find of the century. I hope you enjoy it as it is probably 1 of 1 in south africa

Hey guys I was instructed by @Pete M to write a new write on swapping disc brakes. This is my first write up and being one of the younger guys on the forum feel free to critic the write up. **You can easily do this swap in a few hours, given you have the tools and are handy.** First things first find your local salvage/junkyard and find a jeep liberty with rear disc brakes. I personally used an 04 liberty. You are going to pull all the good stuff, backing plates, rotors if they are good, calipers (to use as cores for new ones), brakes lines, e-brake components minus the e actual ebrake cables because we will be re-using the stock comanche ones If you are lucky like me the wheels will be off the liberty, so all you will have to do is take off the caliper, pop the diff cover, take the 8mm cross pin bolt out, push the axle shafts in, take out the c-clips, and pull the axle shaft out to give you access to you the backing plate. which should look like this.... undo the 4 bolts and everything should come out in one piece. Now back to where you have your beloved comanche, set the rear up on jackstands and repeat the same process to pull the axle shafts out and expose the dreaded drum brake backing plate its 4 bolts just like the kj backing plate, be sure to be use generous amounts of pb blaster, elbow grease and a hammer to knock off the backing plate. once its all off, you can take your kj backing plate and mount it on your axle Once the backing plate is one, you have to use your hammer once again and hammer out the old wheel studs as they are not long enough to mount your wheels and tires safely with the now wider mounting surface of the disc Part numbers: the studs I used are the front wheel studs from a 1997 jeep cherokee dana30 they fit perfectly once you have the studs in, you can go ahead and reinstall your shafts Now the only specialty tool you need is a double flaring tool found at most auto part stores. Yours may allow you to rent, but I had to purchase mine. It is a tool like this. ** I watched several youtube videos on how to flare brake lines before attempting doing this, and recommend you doing it as well.** You have to swap the fittings on the kj lines because they won't thread into the distribution block on the 8.25. So you cut the end off the kj line and pull the old fitting off. Since I used the original fittings, it didnt slide the easiest over the kj line so I used a blow torch to heat them up, to expand them and slide it over the kj line. After the "new" xj fitting is on, match the brake line to one of the holes in the flaring tool and flare to your hearts desire. Once the flaring is done, you can carefully bend your brake lines and run them how you want them. I still have to fix mine as I want the line to go under the leaf springs but I wanted to get it hooked up and tested. After all this is hooked up, you can install your new pads, rotors and calipers. I went with the drilled and slotted flavor mostly for aesthetics and performance too Bleed your brakes and off you go. I really like how it feels with how little driving I have done around my neighborhood. I can't really compare the disc brakes to drum brakes because I never drove my jeep with drum brakes but from what I have read it is an upgrade over stock. If you have any questions, please let me know so I can answer them to the best of my ability. Also let me know if you need more pictures

You want to make sure your bumpstops are centered in the coils. Mine are some what centered but i have to adjust my lowers again to get it just right.

I took out the cover bolt that is labeled check but the hole is too small for my grease gun. I would start pushing grease fill the hole and use the bolt to push the grease through. This doesnt seem to efficient. Can I take out all the bolts for the top cover?

Oh okay. I thought you were looking for a plain stock bumper haha

Its all good I tried taking pictures when I was doing it to help the next person in line. If anything more specific is needed let me know

Dang I want a cam for my jeep lucky. But I have a full plaint front bumper if you want it. Seems we both have some list of things to cross off our list