mkbruin

Welcome! MJ taillights were only on MJ's and certain motorhomes, and are interchangable for all years MJ. Nobody makes a reproduction or aftermarket light, so your only options are junkyard or ebay for a used pair (for OEM); or you can make your own housing and put in LED's. ANYTIME I go to a yard, I check EVERY MJ for taillights and pull them. I either keep them as a spare or ebay them, with the last set bought for $5 each and sold on ebay $40 for the pair. I never put a reserve, so anything over cost plus shipping is good in my book. I have lost $$$ on a few sets, I have made money on a few sets. it all balances out.

Bingo. V8 ZJ coils up front, chevy (88-97 c/k 1500)2" drop shackles in the rear. OR: ZJ coils plus Camaro isolater, 3" AAL in back. OR 3" coils up front, 3" AAL in back OR 3" coils up front, 3" Hell Creek leaf pack in back. For a minimal lift and 31's, I would go with the ZJ coils and chevy shackles. Coils are usually free, and lift shackles are $40.

If you are going to move it to the bed, go to a full fuel cell from Summit Racing.

Any pics? How was the turnout? I just couldn't make it this year...

Keep this thread, but post more pics of your rig. Looks good!

PLEASE post as many pics as you can of that rig and its suspension setup. Also... for the safety of yourself and others, PLEASE do not drive it. Anywhere. Especially not on a public road.

That is way too costly. Throw a set of 300,000 candlepower AutoPal's on there along with an H4 conversion and call it a day. http://stores.ebay.com/Autopal-Lights http://stores.ebay.com/Autopal-Lights/O ... 34.c0.m322

Correct. FEY bumpers are available, and are cheap. $120. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FEY-BUMP ... ccessories

Dana 35: Dana 44:

This method uses centripital (I think) forces to keep the tire in balance. The BB's move to the areas that have higher or lower pressure, and it litterally 'balances' out. Its an el-cheapo way to get around having to pay a tire chain to balance your tires with lead weights; at least it is for Radials. As you go way up in tire size, it becomes harder to balance with weights and the BB's may become more necessary. With Bias Ply, there's no reason not to do this.

this might help... maybe? or this? http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=19

:drool: :ack: :bowdown:

So... swapped out the radiator last week. Still leaked. Hoses were all good. So, looked closer and appeared to be a water pump gasket. Pump appeared to be ok, but figured since I was pulling it anyways I might as well swap it out for $30. Upon removal, determined that one of the lines from the pump was brittle and cracked, so that might be causing the leak... Stole the photo (not mine), but this is the part that was leaking (the tube):

1) Seafoam. Or Mopar CCC. 2) plugs/wires 3) rotor/cap 4) fluids... all of them. Engine, trans, and diferential Simple, easy, one afternoon and $100. This is just a basic tuneup that should give you decent return.

The RTV is the gasket..... its RTV Gasket Maker. No other material is needed.... just make sure you clean off the mounting surfaces first.

There are several on here. Search the DIY section.

They bolt up to the MJ bases. You still have to cut the welds and rivets to swap bases.

Water pump took a dump. Factory replacements are $30 (YES!!!!!!) but I have heard the TJ pumps have a better flow/vane design. Will the TJ 4.0 pump bolt up to a renix 4.0? Or, am I better off sticking with factory?

Its legal in CO... but if you catch a trooper on a bad day you can probably still get a ticket. Still, to me its just not worth the risk. If it were a trail-only rig, sure. On a driver? no way.

Lots of people make their own... I just don't trust my welding skills to the point where I would use it for a suspension component that sees large forces, and has catastrophic results if it breaks (my rigs are all DD's). For something like that, I leave it to the pros.

There is nothing inherrently wrong with the 20, especially the later years such as what you have in yours. I agree, if its not broke, don't fix it. When it does go, dana 35's and 44's are bolt-in (assuming you find an MJ 44), otherwise you can look at dana 44's, ford 8.8's, etc and a weld-in/custom drivehaft/brakes type of job.

Guess I'll jump in. Home base is Highlands Ranch, with family in Parker and DTC.

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These sound good and offer good bass, but the tweeter sticks out a little far. I popped the door pannel off, had to take a BFH to the mounting flange to clearance the hole a little, and drilled new screw holes for mounting. Overall a 30 minute job. These speakers are EASILY worth $15 (honetly, they are a steal at double that price), so if you are still sitting on old, tired, factory speakers... go for it.

Would you be able to snag one of those build-lists for me too?