txjeeptx

OOOOOOooooooooooooo (common soundbite from Show, usually involving one hand in the air, one kinda coverin yer mouth) Dude. That. Was . . . . Awesome! Beats the bleep outta Pixar's "lemons". Can't get no 'spect fer my AMCees.

Jeeps are all I've ever had, up until getting married. I still have my high school YJ as a rock-crawler, but I was using it as a daily driver back in 'o4 when I bought a house with a bare-dirt yard. I needed something to haul soil and landscaping stuff in, since my YJ couldn't do the job very well(hauled a lot of mulch and plants with it before getting the MJ), and I couldn't keep a utility trailer due to HOA rules(moved out of that 'hood, now no HOA where I live). I searched for half a year to find a decent 4.o/AX-15 MJ, and settled on the one I have now because it has a D44 rear axle, even though its a 2wd(always planned on converting to 4wd, but never got to it). Its been a rough time for me and my MJ, suffering through two not-my-fault accidents and lame insurance adjusters and an expensive crappy paint job, and I'm currently contemplating selling it(have ad posted, but no bites) since I have a newer/bigger/"safer" truck to drive now . . but driving it all day yesterday makes me 2nd guess the thought of parting with it. It may well become my son's first truck, although maybe that isn't fair to it, for all its already been through. I keep tellin myself I can always build another someday, but . . .

You can decide this yourself by airing the tires up too much, then pulling into a level, flat, smooth concrete garage, and airing the tires down until you get an even full tread contact pattern with the concrete floor. Write your numbers front and rear in the door jamb with a Sharpie. My guess is it won't be anything near the recommended pressure listed on the sidewall of the tires. I'd bet it'll be something like 20 to 25 psi front, 17 to 22 rear. Air up the rears when you throw a load in the bed.

You git it to run? Hope its working fer ya.

In my above post, the link to HESCO's adapter part has the price in it. Its expensive for what it is, but that's usual for them. It is a fully-machined part, so that's the reason for the expense. Also forgot to mention, if you were to do this full-HO intake swap, you'll have to plug the EGR port in the exhaust manifold, since the (later)HO intake doesn't have a provision for an EGR . . The intake from an pre-93 HO might have a place you could locate a EGR into, but I'm pretty sure there's no EGR on the HO intakes. Anyone had the fuel line mount on an HO intake off to see if you could use the flat there for an EGR? I know the late equal-length runner intake has no place for one at all. So, there's a possible EGR issue if you try to swap in an HO intake manifold. Guess you just plug the exhaust manifold EGR port or use an HO exhaust manifold, and do away with the EGR, and hope it doesn't effect emissions inspection. Question is, can you run the Renix fuel system with an HO intake, without the EGR, and not do any harm to the engine? I dunno.

Yup, he shouldn't touch yer truck again. Fired.

Forgot to mention - HESCO makes a little adapter part to allow Renix-injected Jeeps to use the later HO intake as a whole unit. Their part adapts the Renix TPS to the HO throttle body, so you could swap an entire salvage-yard HO intake onto your engine and use their TPS adapter, and you can even use a bored HO throttle body. You'd have to also use a HO throttle cable from the salvage yard, and should probably also swap the HO valvecover, since it has a mount to hold the throttle cable. Its pretty expensive for the little adapter piece, but the parts from the salvage yard should be cheap, and the upgrade could be worth some pretty decent power. Here's the link to the part - http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=45563&catId= If I weren't selling my MJ, I'd probably do this swap. I already bought their TPS adapter years ago, then never got around to getting the HO intake(& throttle cable & valvecover), so now the little adapter part is hopelessly lost in a box of spare parts somewhere in my shop. If I find it, and can't get my MJ sold(I'm probably askin too much for it - no interest in it AT ALL), I'll guess I'll have to do some salvage yard hopping to find the necessary parts.

True, great description of what you do to shift without using the clutch, but if the synchros are trashed, shifting might still be difficult/forced. Good luck getting it to the shop so you can get that boat anchor swapped out.

. . or he installed a manual transmission tps, so now the computer for the transmission has no idea what the throttle position is. Doubt he adjusted the tps correctly, either, especially if he installed the wrong kind of tps and just left the pigtail to tps fromt he trans computer unplugged. You can verify if this is the problem yourself by checking to see if the TPS has teo wiring connections to it, or just one, with another three wire plug hanging around near it.

You're right - I probably didn't do the violent idea I'd proposed - I probably started the engine with the trans in gear while the t-case was already in 4Lo. My YJ is a 4banger, and it was on 33s with stock gears back then, so there was no way it was gonna start up in gear. Sorry fer the bad idea - just start it in gear, perhaps in 4Lo if you can't get it going in 2wd high.

Worst comes to worst, if 4wd, you could start it with the trans in 1st gear, and the t-case in neutral, then yank back the lever to hit 4wd low range(ouch, it hurts goin into gear like that) You can drive it speed-match-shifting up to 25mph. I limped my YJ home once that way when the slave completely died. Home was about a five mile trip.

:agree:

Could be a cracked transmission mount allowin the trans or exhaust crossover to slap the body when you hit it in reverse. Could be a broken engine mount too. I kept breakin engine mounts until I bought the MORE bombproof ones. Stock rubber junk bites.

Exactly how a spacer works.

:D :rotfl2: :thumbsup: Do that.