mkbruin

Me too, but maybe not 42's. I'm thinking 37 or 38's. :thumbsup: The 715's will fit a mil-spec 37" sitting stock, no lift.

x2. Personal vote is for TNT though. By far the beefiest parts you can buy.

This is on page 2. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27180 Read through to the end.

u-joint? Inner or outer axle shaft snapped? Vaccume disco?

Every time I have spent big $$$ on pads (looking at you, napa) I had braking performance issues (like an inability to lock up). I go with the entry level semi-metallics and have never had any issues. If you really want improvement, the pads are not your weak point. Dual diaphram booster. Upgraded master. Load sensing bypass. New hard lines, and replace the rubber lines with braided lines. Any of these four will give you FAR more bang for your buck than upgraded pads.

I put monoprice speakers in mine. Cheap, amazing sound. They push the pannel out a little, but not much. To install just had to claerance the opening with a 5lb sledge and drill new mounting holes. http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2

If you could have any jeep, what would you choose? cj-6? CJ-8? M715? J8? MJ? Compass? Seriously... take any vehicle from Jeep, build it how you want. My dream is a M715. Cummins I6 NV4500 Atlas 60 front, shaved 14 bolt rear SOA 42" tires.

:doh:

Correct, I had a universal that fit on mine. I posted the part number in another thread. Search for hitch and my username.

only a 3/4 ton? Go big or go home. (no, its not mine. Someday though... for reference, those are 44's on 2.5 ton rockwells.)

That thread doesn't say anything. I have taken dakota taillights off and compared them to MJ lights. Approximately the same size, however, mounting locations are in different places, and the screws go the opposite direction. Can you drill, hack, cut, and slap on something? Sure. But it won't look good. It won't be OE. I repeat, the MJ taillights were not used on any other production vehicle. They were exclusive to the MJ.

You are mistaken. The MJ lights were unique to it, and I think a little produced RV/camper. The lights from the S10, Ram, Dakota may look similar, but have completely different mounting. There are no OE replacements being made today. There are no clear corners available.

Let me see if I am getting this.... You bought a set of full pans, and are mad that you didn't get charged for half-pans. Then, when you complained, the company stepped up to offer you a $25 store credit, or $20 back (a lot of the price difference you are complaining about to begin with), and you are still mad? :doh:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... sc_brakes/ "Place the calliper over the rotor, and rotate to the desired position. I chose as high as possible on the rotor (about the 1'o'clock position) for clearance from the rocks, while still maintaining the bleeder screw reasonably close to being at the top for easier brake bleeding. You can of course mount the calliper right on top of the rotor at the 12 o'clock position, but that would mean it has to be dismounted for bleeding."

Some use ZJ TRE's. Some use Chevy TRE's.

This thread led me to compile an OEM spring chart. See my new thread, it includes part numbers and spring codes for junkyard looking, so you don't waste money on the wrong thing. For shocks, the factory ZJ units also work for ~1-3 inches of lift.

Pieced from about 30 different sources.... "Chrysler makes a variety of springs for the GC (and XJ, and TJ). There are two main types, base and HD, and in each type category there are 5-10 different springs with different GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) capabilities. The springs are denoted by a two digit code as well as a part number." vehicle build code SDA = normal duty vehicle build code SDB = heavy duty V and U spring codes are for right side (passenger), G and F are for left side (driver) There is a lot of missing info here, so please feel free to let me know if you find the missing info, and I will include it in the chart. Image version text version, spaces not lined up. Model Code P/N Spring Rate Suspension Trim Engine XJ UD,FD FD 52001113 #570 SDA XJ UE,FE FE 52001114 #607 SDA XJ UF,FF FF 52001115 #646 SDA XJ UG,FG FG 52001116 #688 SDA XJ UH,FH FH 52001117 #733 SDA XJ UJ,FJ FJ 52001118 #780 SDA XJ UK,FK FK 52001119 #831 SDA XJ VD,GD GD 52001120 #578 SDB XJ VE,GE GE 52001121 #670 SDB XJ VF,GF GF 52001122 #622 SDB XJ VG,GG GG 52001123 #720 SDB XJ VH,GH GH 52001124 #775 SDB XJ VJ,GJ GJ 52001125 #834 SDB XJ VK,GK GK 52001793 SDB W/ UC 4.0 XJ VL,GL GL 52001794 SDB ZJ UJ,FJ FJ 52088102 SDA ZJ UK,FK FK 52088103 SDA ZJ VK,GK GK 52088104 SDB ZJ VL,GL GL 52088105 SDB W/ UC 4.0 ZJ UL,FL FL 52088181 SDA 4.0 ZJ UN,FN FN 52088362 SDA 5.2 ZJ VN,GN GN 52088363 SDB W/ UC 5.2 ZJ VP,GP GP 52089141 SDB W/ UC ZJ UM,FM FM 52088361 SDA ZJ SL,DL DL 52089171 SDA WJ KF,YF 52088263 WJ KE,YE 52088262 WJ LG,ZG 52089421 WJ KG,YG 52088264 WJ KH,YH 52088265 WJ LE,ZE 52088267 WJ LF,ZF 52088268 WJ K1,Y1 52088269 TJ BD,PD 52088126AB SE 2.5 TJ BE,PE 52088127AB SE 2.5 TJ BF,PF 52088128AB SE 2.5 TJ BG,PG 52088129AB X/Sport/Sahara 4.0 TJ BH,PH 52060130AA Rubicon 4.0 TJ BJ,PJ 52060131AA Rubicon 4.0 JK DA,SA 52126310AB JK DB,SB 52126311AB JK DC,SC 52126312AB JK DD,SD 52126313AB JK DF,SF 52126315AB JK DE,SE 52126314AB JK DH,SH 52126317AB JK DG,SG 52126316AB JK DK,SK 52126319AB JK DJ,SJ 52126318AB JK EC,TC 52126512AB JK EB,TB 52126511AB JK ED,TD 52126513AB JK EE,TE 52126514AB JK EF,TF 52126515AB JK EG,TG 52126516AB JK EH,TH 52126517AB JK EJ,TJ 52126518AB JK CL,RL 68026309AB

Always good when you know the lineage.... re-wire engine compartment (check NAXJA for 5-90 battery/starter cables, or make your own if you are good with soldering) re-wire headlights, upgrade to H4 using autopal housings. ZJ v8 coils (52088363 GN code) Chevy 2" drop shackles 97+ front conversion (or a BJ if you like fab-work...)

Only way to tell would be if its an XJ axle that someone chopped the perches and welded on new ones.... and that's only if they did a poor job of that. If its a factory MJ axle, no real way to tell, especially if they re-used the old u-bolts. But yeah, 4 cyl should be 4.10

Ford 44 front, TNT Truss FF 60 or 14 bolt rear. Hell creek MT springs or 3" mj springs, SOA TNT y-link front mil-spec hummer 37" mt's on recentered H1 wheels. Run it like you stole it.

Yeah, I saw that vid of the springs and laughed. The SD could have made it if he kept on it, I have no idea why he let up and then locked the brakes. Any one of them could have released the brakes and been able to steer while rolling backwards. Me? I love driving in the snow. I never understood how so many people could be so bad at it though. (yes, I am that guy doing 65 on the highway in 3 inches... I know how to handle my vehicles, including braking in the slick stuff)

We need a relay here. How many CC members are in a line from NC to Co? Denver here....

most people who go to ZJ coils report a better ride than factory.

I will have to dig out my stock coils and snap some pics. I always thought they were the same till I got them side by side. My 4.0l springs are huge next to my 2.5l springs. There were two different coils used, regular and HD. From what I can tell, there is no difference between the HD and upcountry springs... however, as I said in the last post, there are a LOT of different coils used....

The ZJ coils are not THAT much different. 190 vs 160. For comparison, the F150 coil (4 inch lift) is about 450. Doing research on spring rates, there is no difference between 2.5 and 4.0 coils. Meanwhile, there are at least 25 different types of ZJ coil.