mkbruin

Go for a ZJ V8 trans cooler. The ZJ's used a really, REALLY nice plate-style cooler, opposed to a finned (radiator style) cooler. The plate-style is a MUCH better design. ZJ cooler: http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/techarticl ... ooler.html Image Not Found

How about in the BA 10/5?

So... swapping oil into the 30 front, 35 rear, and BA trans. I have heard some of the YJ guys run 75w140 in the BA. Opinions? Also, how would the 30 do with 75w140? Should I just stick with the regular 80w90 in all three?

I'm putting the same stuff in the trans as well, so thats about 6 quarts total... plus a little dex/merc for the t-case. thanks!

Bump from back in the day. Prepping to do a fluid change, what are the capacities? 30 front, 35 rear.

5+1 would be a pack from a J-series.... or am I wrong?

The POR is an accronym for Pour Over Rust....

My initial reaction was "Alex is back at it again?" Additionally, when looking for a reputable parts dealer things like proper grammar and spelling DO matter. Additionally, when you are attempting to hock products to a tight community, you are better off with a formal introduction and getting to know the forum a bit before jumping into your sales pitch. Secondly, do not have your first response be an attack. You have done yourself no favors so far, and are not making any friends or winning any hearts.

For those wanting to SEE the difference the H4 upgrade makes:

When I did my SOA, the factory shaft engaged the splines in the TC (barely). I ran without SYE. Until about a week after I went SOA. I hopped on the highway for the first time. Doing about 55 in the middle lane, hit a small riser. This lifted the truck enough that the slip-yoke disengaged and the shaft dropped to the ground. BOOM. That was the sound of my rear axle exploding as the force of a metal pole (the driveshaft) jammed backwards into it at 55mph. I made it off the highway, but thats it. I was able to re-engage the splines of the driveshaft by having a friend put it back up while I lifted up on the rear bumper by hand. I was able to drive about a block (awful noise, like nails in a meat grinder) before the rear finally completely locked up. So. Got to buy a new axle. And re-weld perches. Then spent the $100 for a custom made, proper length shaft.

On an auto, yes. The filter is cheap and easy to change while you have the pan off. Fluid type Dex/Merc III Capacity: "Service" fill (drain and fill at regular intervals) is right around four quarts. "Dry" fill (fill after overhaul and replace torque converter) is around nine quarts. A "minor overhaul" will typically take five to five and a half quarts, assuming the TC hasn't been drained. Safest is to put in four quarts, idle the engine while shifting through all gear ranges (at least 30 seconds in each range to fill the valve body - 30 seconds going down and 30 seconds coming up) and check/fill as needed afterwards.

Just noticed his location. :D I had just assumed it was northern midwest and ~0* temps.

I paid $100 for a brand spankin' new, BEEFY, custom built driveshaft when I SOA'd my old one. It was BEEFY.

:rotfl2: :rotf: :rotfl2: :agree:

Here's my upgrade: AutoPal housings http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-01-JE ... ccessories EAuto wiring http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eAuto ... 189849.htm H4 bulbs Total will be under $100, and get you an amazing upgrade, Wire harness reading: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... rade+cheap Other than the AutoPal's, you can get Hella or IPF housings in both DOT and E-code (european). E-codes are technically not street legal in the US, but if properly aimed you should not receive any grief from the Po-Po.

Diamond plate? :shake: I have no answer for you on this one. For interior, you might (should) be able to swap in the dash and othe interior pannels from any cherokee or comanche through 1996. (/trying very, very hard not to flame)

That looks like 3" springs and a 1.5" spacer. If the springs are sagged, you may be down to 3.5 to 4" total.

:agree:

:???: can anyone decipher?

With that many miles, I wouldn't be surprised if your springs aer fatigued and not up to factory load spec. For $300 you can get a new set from Hell Creek.... For some, thats more than the truck is worth. For others, that's an inexpensive refresh of a 20yo wear and tear part.

On our '88 the previous owner had removed the cat. We never knew until we failed an emmissions test (barely) and then failed the visual. Tossed a new cat on the truck, it ran like a new vehicle. Passed the e-test with flying colors. Its there for a reason, and they are relatively cheap to buy. There is absolutely no upside to removing it.

Yep, I have the rubber mat in my longbed

I would say a couple hundred... maybe. OEM parts are cool... but there's not too many that would pay extra when any rollbar from a compact will work.

Inventive, but still weak. Provides a little extra protection, but is still likely to deform or bend if you actually hit something.

Aer you wanting to buy, or wanting to buy then flip to someone here? To buy for yourself: Rollbars go for $50-100, depending on condition. Lights.... well, you can get a pair of 130w, 300,000 candlepower Autopals for $25, and they are pretty darn good. 20yo OEM? not so much. $5/light? Also, I would try to refrain from calling them a roll-bar. They will cave like tin foil if you ever actually roll.