mkbruin

Or an '86.

That makes 2 for 2 between this and the D44 thread.

46RE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 5.9L engines. 44RE: 4 sd. automatic transmission used in 1996 to 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee's with 5.2L engines. 42RE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1993 to 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.0L engines. 46RH: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1993 to 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 5.2L engines AX-15 5 spd. manual transmission used in 1993 - 94 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.0L engines. AW4 swaps are common to the 4.0 ZJ, and it is pretty much bulletproof; however, I believe it only came factory in early 1993 ZJ's so parts in yards are pretty rare (shift bezel, etc.)

42re or 44re.... I think thats a 42re though. They are VERY prone to exploding behind the 5.2, and here in Denver there are Grands going for $1,000 any day of the week with dead or dying auto's.

There is nothing that you can do to make a Willy's truck look 'silly'. Build the Willy's.

Per your needs: Good torque Good highway handling decent mileage COST Ease of install 4.0 fits the bill perfectly. But as I said in my counterpoint... for the cost of the swap you can buy a 4.0 MJ

I'd go 4.0. Simple install, many ready-made parts, good mileage. 4bt is a dream choice, but its a TALL engine. 5.0 or 350 are good, but you won't get the mileage as the 4.0, and erquires a lot more fab. For simple swaps that meet your needs, 4.0 is the way to go. Counterpoint: For the cost of the swap, you can go and buy a second, 4.0 MJ. So, if you are going to spend the $$$, go big with a V8 swap or just buy a second rig to torture yourself with thats factory 4.0.

A V8 will fit, but you may have to get creative with cooling... and will have to get creative with motor mounts, emissions, trans crossmember, driveshafts, overall clearances, shifter position, etc.

The regular boomerangs should never cause any spring issues. Between factory shackles, boomerang shackles, or XJ lift or Chevy Drop (if going for slight lift) there shouldn't be issues. Now, only a shackle lift is not the best idea, and sometimes can cause premature sag or driveline angles that are off... but overall should be fine. Since he is retaining stock-height, there is no change on the driveline angles and there should be no issue at all.

1) Factory springs will come out without a spring compressor, but you need a breaker bar and know how to cheat death if it comes flying out. 2) Aftermarket springs need a compressor. These coils are not factory. I know this because you have said they have more lift than your normal truck, and the diameter of the coil is larger than factory. 3) You need a coil spring compressor. Parts stores "rent" them for $25, and you get the $$ back when you return it. Or, buy a pair. I have one pair Harbor Freight, one pair craftsman. Craftsman is my primary, the HF is for backup use only. Remember, when the coil is comperssed, treat is like you are handeling live ordinance. If it pops loose, it can kill you. Tighten one side, then the other, then back to the other side, then back to the other. Alternate back and forth, and try not to let one side get a lot more compression than the other. Done right: even compression

* Fixed LCA's I would go with adjustable LCA's. *Drack bar drop bracket The track bar and the drag link need to be at the same angle. Dropping one without dropping the other will cause bumpsteer and possibly death wobble. Since you are getting an adjustable track bar, I would stay away from the drop. *No adjustable uppers?

I think he was referring to boomerang: Versus Boomerang: The former is known to unload abruptly, causing massive instability among other sereve and possibly dangerous offroading characteristics. The latter is perfectly normal, and preferable.

Serpentine belt loose?

Lots of places sell kits, how beefy do you want to go? T&T customs, $40. http://tntcustoms.com/hdlowercontrolarmmounts.aspx M.O.R.E., $30. http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Tabs_ ... racket.htm I am a big fan of anything T&T.

Can you elaborate? Why are they ill-advised? I have never heard that anywhere for any vehicle....

Radiator, non-pressurized bottle, and thermostat housing, I believe. edit: Links http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... Switch.htm viewtopic.php?t=7695

DO NOT get the Bosch +4 plugs, or any of the other gimmicy things. Stick with a good quality regular platnum plug for the best spark and best bang for your buck. Before doing the tune-up, start with a can of sea-foam or MCCC. You do not want to do this after new plugs, because it can foul the plug. Rotor/Cap shouldn't be that big a deal... anything new will be noticably better than 25 year old factory parts. FLUID CHANGE. Complete. Radiator flush. F/R Differentials. T-case. Transmission. Engine. For engine, we use Valvoline High Mileage syn blend 10-30 in all our cars. Its low-cost (20 bucks/change at Wally mart) so 3k-5k mile changes are easy on the wallet. We have a '01 caravan with 230k miles on it with zero issues, and its seen HEAVY tow duty (about 50k of the 230k is with a maxed out trailer weight.)

For what you want to accomplish, it can be done cheap and easy. Front coils: v8 ZJ coils (1993-1998 Grand Cherokee) Rear: 1988-1997 Chevy 2" drop shackle Slap on some rims with minimal backspacing and some 31's and you are rolling. For 2", there is no need to replace control arms, shocks, brake lines, etc. Now, for 3" cheap: Front: v8 ZJ coils, Camaro coil isolator Rear: Hell Creek AAL For 3" there is no need to replace CA's, shocks, brake lines.... Now for 3" done right: Front: aftermarket 3" coils. Problems with Rusty's are well documented. Go RE, Terraflex, Rancho, OME, or other REPUTABLE brand. New CAs will give you extra turning room and slightly beefier components. I like RE personally. Rear: New Hell Creek leafs. Great products, USA made, and they support the board. Couldn't hurt to grab new shocks for additional travel, and swapping in soem factory YJ or other stainless braided brake lines couldn't hurt. Difference between cheap and done right: Things that don't NEED to be replaced get replaced. As for the off-topic TJ tires... early years SE models came with smaller tires. All other trim levels came with 30's, with the exception of Rubicons that came with 31's

Same years. You may get by with an older block, but the heads/sensors/etc are all pretty unique. You can't even interchange easily between the XJ and WJ due to electrical differences (that I am aware of). Look for an insurance auction or parting out of a WJ with 4.0 that was in a erar or side accident. You can get a motor real cheap. Or just go the rebuild route, 4.0's are easy to build also.

Doesn't matter whether its an old, beat up and sagged AAL or a Chevy 2" drop shackle... Stock, SUA '88. Looking to get reat to match or slight increase over a V8 ZJ coil lift up front (approx 1").

vacuum issue?

Picked up a set of 6.5" speakers to drop in the front door http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... escription I am assuming these can be mounted behind the door pannel in the factory location with drilling new mounting holes. Am I wrong in that assumption? I still have the wing windows, so it should not interfere with the window.

And in case you don't know... JK wrangler is 2007 and newer TJ wrangler is upto 2006... round headlights YJ wrangler- can't think of the years, but square headlights, leaf spring front suspension. Note, the ZJ Grand cherokee 1993?-1998 front axle will also bolt in. JK is 07+ TJ is 97-06 YJ is 87-95 There was no 96 model year Wrangler.

Lots of XJ/MJ doublers over here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739055

The other pics at my link are awesome too.