mkbruin

a GDI 3 core radiator solved ALL of my overheating problems on my old 4.0. Over on Pirate in the Cherokee forum the Topic Of The Month (TOTM) is cooling. Its worth a read.

Not too familliar with the 2.5... I would guess coil pack or starter solenoid (not sure if the 2.5 has those too) based on what you are saying. I assume you have tested the battery, alternator, and starter?

This is only half right. Every time I, or a family member, are in a yard we check and pull MJ taillights to ebay. Our last set went for $45 plus $12 shipping. The $300 set looks to be an anomoly, as all our sets go for at or just under $50/pair in any condition. Do we make profit? Absolutely. However, we could care less as long as we get back what we paid for them. We feel its better for us to yank/ebay/profit by selling to someone in need rather than risk the lights going into the mouth of the crusher, taking a light that cannot be replaced otherwise. Do you have any parts in mind that you need direction/sources? Almost any part from an XJ will cross over. Here is the short list of incompatibles: rear window tail lights rear driveshaft rear axle (same width, but SUA instead of SOA and perches 1/4 inboard) rear flares bucket seat brackets floorpans Almost anything else can be mix-n-matched from an XJ.

I re-used the spring plates on my old MJ. On my next one, I will burn in some new mounts. The plates are good as a short-term fix to get it on the road, but the short length really reduces travel. (This is not full-flex, but shows just how short the shocks really were. I am looking for a better pic to share.)

Have you looked at nv3500 or 3550? Auto-swap?

I heard once that the rear links from a mid-90's F350 are a match. If you need additional length, look for one of these at a u-pull-it.

Now that I see it, I'm kicking myself for not taking of work to go and get it for myself! Nice grab Jim.

My next set are coming from Treadwright.

Quick Q... The TJ guys bolt on Dodge Durango boxes.... do those work on a XJ/MJ also? The main feature (of both the ZJ and the Durnago boxes) is the quicker ratio, they are not any stronger.

Sorry that I couldn't make the trip... I am hoping for you also!

so, whats the verdict... has ANYONE actually run a set of 70's dodge 150 leafs or a set of waggy/J-series leafs? Ir, is everyone still sitting on factory or butchered packs?

Just got word from my dad that some things came up and he was not able to make the trip. We are out....

My dad is on his way there with a tow dolly. If its still there, we will pick it up and hold it for someone. We would rather this go to someone on the board that will fix it, rather than back to the impound lot.

I'm in denver and want it. Let me know asap if its still available and I will get it this morning.

I know on the 4.0 that the belt tensioner was located on/under the power steering pump bracket. It was a screw-type...

I figured I would share a few more pics of my old rig.... RE non-adjustable LCA's, no drop bracket RE adjustable track bar RE ZJ 4.5 coils spring over rear

Sorry for the delay, here are the pics of the hitch and the mounting/fitment

Welcome... came to the right place! Based on your description, I would pick up another for $500 with a straight body and a blown engine, then go to work on a drivetrain swap since yours is solid there. At some point, she's going to just snap in half on you, and it doesn't sound too safe right now...

its possible, but not with the current leaf pack... I would look at late-70's dodge ram/ramcharger/trailblazer packs to use with a MJ main. They are about the same, length, width, and center pin location, but they were SOA factory, and have less arch. I can't remember if J10 packs are SUA or SOA, but they are also the same length/width/centerpin as MJ packs.

My recomendation for beefy steering on the cheap is to ream the TRE holes a little, use Chevy TRE's, and use tapped DOM for the drag link and tie rod. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... light=totm not mine: Here are the part numbers for the steering ends. ES2234R (you need 2 of these) - 28.99 ea ES2027L (one needed) - 27.99 ES2233L (one needed) - 33.99 Just so you know there is a difference between the drag link end and a tie rod end. ES2027L is a drag link end. It allows for a larger angle to be achieved. ES2027L is the passenger tie rod end. This is originally designed for a chevy under the knuckle and the hole is drilled to a smaller taper for the wrong direction. The hole is for the steering stabilizer on a chevy. So this needs reamed from the opposite direction to accept the tie rod end. There is plenty of material to support this. Here is what the rod ends look like. Yes I know there are no cotter pins on the castle nuts and the jam nuts need tightened, I still need to do an alignment. My new tie rod is 1.25 .335 4130 DOM. Drilled and tapped to accept the 7/8” x 18 thread of the tie rod ends. This way there are no welds to fail. You can go to regular DOM and weld in bungs if you want something less expensive. The knuckles and pitman arm will also have to the reamed. The knuckles from the top down to go OTK and the pitman arm to accept the larger drag link end.

Here's what you need: At minimum: spring perches for the rear, weld-on. $25 RE 4.5" ZJ coils (or other 6 inch XJ coil) $150 Sway-bar disconnect $45 adjustable track bar $150 front shocks. (may need bar pin eliminators) (rear can be re-used if you are el-cheapo using factory plates and shock mounting locations, need to notch the Xmember) $100 Adjustable upper and lower control arms $300-400 longer front brake lines $30 Rear driveshaft (had a new one custom made for mine, slip yoke) $125 To do it right: longer brake lines front/rear $50 upgraded drag-link and tie rod $150 longer rear shocks and new mounts added (gain ~5 inches in shock length) $100 SYE $150 re-gear $500 long-arms and t-case crossmember $1,000 Keep in mind, no one company makes the all-around best of everything, and its ok to mix and match. I would not use drop brackets. They are designed for the XJ, and won't work with the already re-inforced MJ control arm mounts. That, and it adds a lot of stress at the unibody. I wouldn't touch them. The track bar and the drag link should match angle-wise. I wouldn't drop either. Just reinforce or beef-up the track-bar and drag link itself. I built mine the cheap way and had such caster issues I could not go over 45mph without death wobble. On a DD. Made getting to and from trails a long, long experience. I used RE 4.5 ZJ coils. RE adj trackbar. RE fixed LCA (shop sold me the wrong stuff). Sway bar discos. Rancho RS5000 shocks. custom rear driveshaft, no SYE. The cheap way (my old, former, 89), nowhere near max-flex:

skip the nerfs and go straight to sliders. Form follows function.

What would you keep in that, other than water allowing it to rust from the inside-out?

Wow... I disappeared for a few days and the thread really took off. I will take a few pics of the universal I have mounted and post up tonight.

Stick with someone who supports the board/community. http://stores.zmjeeps.com/Detail.bok?no=146659