mkbruin

Are you looking for a front, rear, or both? The FSJ's came with terrible gear ratios from the factory. Unless you are going big and need 4.56 or better gears, they aren't worth the time. Also, you will have issues with bolt patterns. For just a rear, I would look at xj/mj 44's, mj model 20, or ford 8.8

Yep. Beefier box, quicker ratio. Bolt-in. If you are goign to drop in a new/reman box, there is no reason not to go this route.

The local u-pull-it's sell springs for $15/ea here in Denver, and most people with ZJ's give them away. Look for a local 4x4 board and see if you can score a local set. Or, see if the person will take $20 for the set.

Jeep never had a 60 front in any model. Its probably a J20 set, HD44 front, 60 rear. Its also passenger drop, so it won't fly unless you do a d300 swap edit: There was a closed knuckle 60 front in the Kaiser M715/725, but this set is an open knuckle, which rules out any Jeep facroty 60.

Drums came in 10x 1 3/4"; 10x 2 1/2"; and 11x 2"

Otherwise... look at jumping to a 37 maybe? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=779576

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=779576

:???: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Depa ... Rank%7cAsc I guess I don't see the issue....

My ideal build: 1) TNT longarms. 2) TNT Truss on ford 44 or 60 front (ideally 60, 44's are cheaper though and work well with my 37's) 3) SOA on Hell Creek metric ton springs 4) 97+ front conversion with some trimming. 5) 14b, 10.5, 60, or 70 in the rear 6) 4.56 or 4.88 and detroits. 7) 37" mil-spec hummer tires on recentered mil beadlock rims. dream list: 8) chop top, use bedside patch pannels to giev it a smooth-body look, remove cab bulkhead and add flat floor to bed. 9) full cage. 10) cut up a 2-door XJ roof to make a removable hardtop. and you have a built to the hilt ScoutII style Manche.

If you go with a swap, might as well upgrade to a 98/99 Dakota 4x4 box.

Bump... Follow up! How are they working for you? Still like them after six months of use/abuse? Any more pics to share?

If you are going through the trouble... go 60s, no question. I would take a hard look at some mil-spec 37's on hmmvee 16.5 beadlocks. You can pick them up with 90+% tread for $100/ea.

Are you joking? The man is doing a v-8 swap, and wants a stronger axle. They also take the same amount of work as a 44. If you are going to do the swap... why go for the far weaker axle? :thwak: You can make a Dana 44 just as strong as a 60 and the 44 will give you around 2" more ground clearance plus a lighter axle. The only weak point in the 44 that isn't offered yet is the ball joint (Ballistic Fab is working on a heavy duty rebuildable Dana 44 and Dana 60 ball joint). The Dana 44 will just cost a lot more money to build up into that (due to that reason, I'm going the whole Dana 60HP King Pin route till I win the lottery). If you're dead set on going 60, look for the king pin style as they eliminate that ball joint issue. I think you can shave some off the bottom of the Dana 60 also (don't quote me on that part yet, that's a later project for me so haven't looked into that in depth yet). If you don't plan on running anything larger than 35's, you might be better off with the Dana 44. Its easy to shave a 60 to 44 clearance, and if you build the 60 with the same parts as you would the 44 (shafts, etc) then no 44 can compare. It takes big $$$ into a 44 to get to a stock 60 strength.

Are you joking? The man is doing a v-8 swap, and wants a stronger axle. They also take the same amount of work as a 44. If you are going to do the swap... why go for the far weaker axle? :thwak:

Part #CC784 on RockAuto.com, $80 a pair, not bad IMO. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=201282 Doin some lookin for springs. Bumping this cause of the prices. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?tab=search&partnum=%23cc784 $78.05 This a decent price? Somewhere else I should be looking? JY? Assuming these are decent springs to replace my 22yr old ones and lift a little You want a junkyard ZJ spring thats a G-code. Or, look at XJ spring codes and mix/match until you find the spring rate you are looking for. vehicle build code SDA = normal duty vehicle build code SDB = heavy duty V and U spring codes are for right side (passenger), G and F are for left side (driver)

I would guess you could sell ~200-500 pair (total, lifetime run)... depending on ease of installation and choice of seats for template use (ZJ, TJ, WJ, XJ, etc...)

Yep. I have had a mazda where the PO cross-threaded a plug into the block. I was NOT happy when I found that one. @Brian.. I was saying a helicoil is cheaper (ie. fix the current threads) than replacing the block. Not that you would need to replace the block.

Must be the solar yellow. People are mistaking it for gold. /sarc. Nice rig. :D

The 44a isn't too bad as long as you aren't looking to go hardcore on regear and locker, and make sure you truss the heck out of it before abusing it. Really, a 44a trussed is DRAMATICALLY better than a c-clip 35.

If its the one in your avatar, I have $1,000 cash and a flatbed. I'll see you tomorrow. :brows:

It's a lot cheaper than a new block.

If you are going through the hassle of a 4-link, better to do it triangulated and not have to deal with panhards. This is time consuming, costly, etc. Yes, 4-links can be done. However, unless you go full truggy on your MJ, the LOOOOOONG mj leafs do more than a good enough job of flexing out and riding great.

Hey Pete... Can we make this one a Sticky here? Seems like 1/2 the page is always/perma 4wd conversion q's that are the same.

I would not run my entire suspension off 4 bolts per side like the BDS pictured above. IMO, if going 4-link LA, you should plate the unibody, and add through-frame bolts as well. Minimum 8-9 bolts per side.

66 pages of info: The front 60 Bible. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html Everything you could ever want to know. Pass drop 60's are going to be Chevy or early dodge (pre-94).