whowey

All the skids are in good shape. I can take a pic but someone forgot to pay his photo host, so they wiped me out temporarily. The front skid is the same as an XJ(I used it on one) and the t-case skid is the same design but the holes don't line up on the XJ unibody. I will look for the sales information, IIRC the kit sold for about 150 bucks in 1988. (The only good thing about buying a truck from an engineer, was the fact I have every single receipt for the truck since it was new.) When I got the truck home and went through all the paperwork. The original owner had given me his credit information and loan application from 1987 when he ordered the truck. Found the info: Long bed gas tank skid: 120.19 Front Skid: 48.09 T-case skid: 23.07 Those were list prices, discounted package price: $145

I have the factory skid plate kit for my MJ. But I realize that when I get around to working on my current one, it will never see a trail. Its a long bed, metric tonne. All I really want to do with it is get the body in good shape, and redo the interior and use it for hauling stuff around. With the impending extra kids and the ones we already have I have to build something different anyway. (I'm thinking shortbed MJ, set-up like one of those tours in the mountains with seats in the back for the kids.) The kit contains the front skid, the transfer case skid and the big fuel tank skid. Realistically, I'm trying to have someone talk me out of selling it.

What size tube, and what radius of bends?

Maybe where you are. But here in Midwest farm country, we have experienced exactly what Eagle said. Cheaper until just the last couple of years.

Yea, those TWO stink fest of GM's pretty much torpedoed any chances that diesel ever had for pax cars in the US. I had a 79 Mercury Lynx(Escort clone with nice seats) that had a 1.9L diesel in it. It had to sit for almost 3 minutes for the glow plugs to warm things up enough in the winter to start her. It used to piss people I worked with off to find out that I used to leave it run for 4 hour shifts, and I still only used about 12 gallons of fuel a week(70 mile round trip daily, and leaving it running every nite). Not to mention opening the hood to be able to use the ether injection system. I wish I could have kept that car from rusting out....

You can buy them right in WisCOWsin. Hell, there is a place right over the Chedder line, that sells beer, cheese and fireworks in one stop. If they had lottery tickets, every trailer park in the stateline area would be empty every friday afternoon.

I hope you meant a 318, I have no clue what a 518 would be....

There is one right at the beginning of 'Small Soliders', the lead kid rides his bike past a really nice red one with a cap on it.

Poor sad little man needs a few :cheers:

those gorilla bodies look like crap compared to this thing not to mention they're like 8k+ You have to finish the bodies. They come in a raw gelcoat state. If you've seen one badly done its because it was badly done. But yes they are expensive. But very light weight compared to the one posted.

Start with what turns on and uses electrical power when you insert the key and turn it to on. 1. Door buzzers 2. Fuel pump(a good chance your culprit) 3. Engine electrical system(relays and spark control) make sure that you fuel pump has a good frame ground

If I were going to do something like that. I'd go buy the Gorilla bodies that are available. His is pretty cool, but damn that thing would be a stinky pig at the fuel pump. But I do HAVE an 88 F-150 4wd that I need to do SOMETHING with.... (we need a better pondering a new project smilie) :hmm:

A dana 40 front????? Are there 40's that aren't TTB axles??????????.( I had one in a farm truck, HD F-150 6.9, very much a TTBl)

3 grand for shipping???? A one-way plane ticket, a couple of nights in a hotel, and temp tags would be WAY cheaper than that..... You live in Texas, Southwest will get you anywhere you need to go.

I'm gonna answer the same thing as Pete.... The power of the darkside is inescapable!!!!! :evil: :evil:

Flush water goes to the firewall connection. the water will run out of the line you disconnected from that spot. I usually start the flush with the lower radiator hose disconnected to get as much gunk out of the system as low on the block as possible, rather than pushing the junk all the way through the system. Yes, pre-mix is fine. I don't buy it because its almost twice the price of regular anti-freeze. A 4.0l cooling system holds roughly 12 qts(US) or 3 gallons of fluid. I dug out the FSM, and it shows 11.4l for you darn Canucks 8). Look at the back of the jug, and it should give a recommendation for your particular winter temps. I can't tell you the exact number as there are parts of Canada that are more southern than where I live along the Illinois/Wisconsin border. For my particular needs I need about 5 qts anti-freeze. You could run straight anti-freeze, but that is a recipe for overheating in the summer and low heat in the winter. Anti-Freeze doesn't have the heat carrying capacity of water.

Sorry, Family junk got in the way today,..... I've been out shopping for minivans.(That is completely another story though) Take the hose from the side of the pressure bottle and follow that back to the heater core.(That's where it goes into the firewall) And disconnect that hose. That is where I connect the garden hose and flush out that end of the system. I took a spare piece of heater hose and attached a garden hose replacement end to it for attaching the garden hose. I keep pumping fresh water into the their until I only get clear water out. You need to have the pressure bottle installed for this to work. I apologize, I didn't realize that you didn't even know which hose was which on the cooling system. The lower radiator hose is the large black one that goes from the lower side of the water pump to passenger side of the radiator. I also never use the petcock drain unless I am removing the radiator for exactly the same reason. They tend to clog with whatever crap is in the radiator and then either crack, or clog up and you can't get them resealed. The upper radiator hose I disconnect(after the draining is complete) at the water neck(the part attached to the engine) and hold it up in the air and fill here. If you have reconnected all the other hoses, then the clear water will flow out of the water neck. Once I get the amount of coolant in that I want in, I reattach that hose. Roughly 5qts. is what is recommended here in the northern Midwest. There should be a chart on the back of the anti-freeze jug giving you a recommendation. The only additives I ever use, is cider vinegar for flushing(per the recommendation of someone here who I have an EXTREME amount of respect for). And I add a bottle of 'water wetter' to the pressure bottle after the flush and fill is complete, to help combat the inevitable heating problems I get every summer.

Huh?? Most of the people I met from PNW aren't mudders. I'll be out there as soon as my employer gets their collective act together and makes an offer worth moving my family for.

Pretty much defines Rough Country. They certainly put the ROUGH in it.

First, it makes a holy mess. I catch the coolant in a cut off plastic barrell I keep around for it. Once most of the coolant is out, I just let the flush water run down the drain. There may be other ways, but this is how I do it. The heater valve is right near the heater core on the heater lines, so that is why I disconnect the heater hoses and flush the core seperately. The vacuum valve likes to stick either open or closed(seems like its always closed in the winter :eek: ) I am planning on removing the valve, as the wheeler Jeep has no doors anyway. I'm not sure what pictures you need. But I need to flush the cooling system of my wheeler, so I can snap a few pics if you want.

Yes, you need a flush..... But I don't know your project off-hand so my ideas are going to be for the Renix era closed system. I generally drain from the lower radiator hose. I pull it at the radiator and that gets the lower end of the block plus the radiator. I aslo pull the heater core lines and drain the pressure bottle. I have a section of heater hose with a garden house attachment to use as a power flush. I first do the heater core, than I remove the thermostat from the housing, remount the housing and flush the block that way. To refill the system I start by reattaching all of the hoses, but I remove the upper radiator hose at the engine. I hold the hose as high as it can get and then pour anti-freeze in it. You will get water running out of the water neck as you do this. Once I start to get anti-freeze out there then I know its pretty full. I forgot to mention, my thermostat has the small hole (5/16ths IIRC) drilled in it to prevent massive overheating from thermostat failure. I put the radiator hose back on then, Then I will fill the pressure bottle up with anti-freeze. Then I start the Jeep up and let it warm up. I keep adding anti-freeze to the pressure bottle when the level drops. Yes, these systems are notorious for getting air pockets and needing 'burped' But this method is the best I've found for minimizing this. Some guys will remove the coolant temp sensor on the back of the block to help get the air out, but I generally haven't had to do it. Almost forgot, I check the level in the pressure bottle over the next few days of using the Jeep, and make sure i keep the pressure bottle topped off.

I did this once with one of our farm trucks and a buddies Camaro. We went through the town he lived in with this Camaro on a log chain to the draw bar on the truck. My buddy sat on a 5 gallon bucket and steered the Camaro around corners and used the brakes when needed. We got almost all the way to where he was going to be working on the car. We pulled through a stop sign just as the city police pulled up. My idiot friend leans out the missing door and waves at the cop. We get pulled over and he gets several tickets. I get a real butt chewing over the incident. Luckily the local SA thought the cop was just being a fool. And she dropped all of the tickets against my buddy once we went in and explained to her what was going on.

Yes, In fact I think I may still have a Robyn 2-meter crystal rig somewhere in my basement somewhere....

That is an excellent radio. It is an older design Cobra, before the name was purchased by Maxon. The base design is still being produced by Uniden as the PC 66XL(whatever version is today's de joir) When DynaScan(the corp that owned the Cobra brand name) went bankrupt, Maxon bought the name, Uniden bought the designs(and subsequently launched their XL line). The Cobras produced today are either Chinese, or Indonesian in production and realistically not the same quality. Many are Maxon designs just repackaged to use their investment in the name. Two quick examples are the HH-39(motorcycle) or the HH-40(handheld). One thing noone has mentioned is to use QUALITY coax. Cheap coax without decent materials, construction or shielding makes your system just as bad.

A felt pad isn't necessarily bad. But you would have to restore the ground via another method.(A Wilson Silver load antenna has a ground wire attached to it for just such instances) Also a dummy antenna isn't necessarily bad either. You could actually put a series of cut dummies in and use them as parasitic directors and turn your truck into a enormous beam antenna. A Comanche by it design is always going to have a radiation pattern that leans toward a front to back or back to front lobes rather than side to side. (What that means to us, is that if you look at the truck. No matter where you mount the antenna you will get a larger 'lobe' or percentage of the useable signal going either to the back or the front of the truck rather than out to the sides.) Load relief springs aren't the worst thing you can do to an antenna. That distinction would either go to the metallica paint that was on several Firestick antennas, the metallic flake in the plastic coating on some truck no-names, or those idiotic little lights that go on your antenna tips that operate via RF power. The highest, top dead center of a vehicle GENERALLY is the optimum place for an antenna. In the real world its not always feasable. The fiberglass roofs of intergated sleepers on Volvo trucks, or rubber coated roofs on RV being two easily identified exceptions. Some vehicles also have keyless entry systems mounted in the overhead that will play havoc with the antenna system.