ParadiseMJ

The key is maintaining and fixing as you go.

Yeah, that changes things. 1. There is no filter 2. The drain plug is in the BACK of the tranny...at the bottom. The fill plug is on the passenger side about half way back, and it needs the 5/16" square drive, or modified tool. 3. Depending on which tranny (BA 10 or AX). The AX uses brass tolerant fluid, the BA-10 doesn't matter.

I got a decent pair of buckets (XJ 4 door) for $50, so $80 for a nice set does not seem too far out there. I would've preferred 2 door buckets or actual MJ seats, but it's what I got. I swapped the seat brackets and installed them in about 2 hours...and I REALLY like them.

It will be short, by about 2-3 inches. ...or you could measure it. That's where I'd start.

It's always a good idea to get down and crawl around under your Jeep. The drain hole for the tranny is...at the bottom of the tranny. If you just want to drain and fill without changing the filter, just pull the plug, only about 3.5 qts. will come out. Put the same amount back in. DEX III or better, no ATF+4. The TC takes the same fluid. On the back of the TC there are 2 brass plugs (30mm socket). Remove the top plug first (so you know you can re-fill it), then remove the bottom plug and drain it. Replace the bottom plug and fill the top plug til tranny fluid starts coming out the hole. It's also good to have a pump to re-fill (about $6.99 at NAPA, AutoZone etc.). ...and while you are under there crawl around and identify where the rest of the stuff is.

...Same, same. "rollover valves" Cost me ~$60.00. BTW, you need them, they vent gas fumes via vacuum tubes to the charcoal cannister which in turn are sucked into the intake to be burned. I was able to just pry the old ones out and shove the new ones in with a bit of lubricant on the grommet.

I'm using Pennzoil "syncromesh". About 2.5 qts.

No, the 2 sets of LeBaron vents I have didn't come with any drip pan. XJ has a pan that I fabbed and remove in the summer (doesn't rain much here from May - Sept.). MJ has vents with no tray yet but it's covered, it lives in the carport as it's still "under construction".

1. Buy a manual. It'll give you the basics...and it's all very basic. 2. Brakes - Dot 3 Power steering - Power Steering fluid Rear end - 75/90 - choice of brand - I use Red Line. Tranny - depends on the tranny. 3. Buy a manual

Adjustables start at 1.5" lift, cost around $250 new. search "ACOS" Bump stops screw off...and yes you'll need a pipe wrench or channel locks to remove them with the spring still on, between the coils. This picture just shows that they DO screw off. `

Yep, Replace all fluids if you haven't already. Drain and fill tranny, don't flush. Assuming you have an AW4. Flush & fill coolant Both diffs Flush brake fluid Flush power steering fluid. Clean things up. Very important to maintain all fluids on a regular basis unless you want stuff acting up and/or failing

...or a Pringles tube and some duct tape. :USAflag:

You can get an 3" intake tube with grommet holes for the emissions (to make it legal). One hose from front of valve cover, the other to vac supply. They come in different lengths and 20 degree angle all the way to 90 degree angle. Auto Zone, cheap. The filter will not fit 3" ABS pipe because the 3" on ABS is inside diameter. Like said above, $30 or so.

Replace your oil sender. It's done gone bad.

:huh???: Do you mean it had Amsoil put IN it or an Amsoil System put ON it. If you have Amsoil IN it, then it's just a regular filter change. If you had an Amsoil system put ON it...follow the line(s).

I think you'd be real lucky to get $1500. Totaled used to be a term for a completely destroyed car. These days most insurance companies will consider it totaled if it'll cost 75% of the value of low book to fix it (and/or the air bags deploy). I got $400 for a smashed front stock bumper, but the adjuster told me I wouldn't get more than $1000 if the whole Jeep was smashed. Didn't make sense then, doesn't make sense now. A twenty year old truck, with expensive mods or not is still a twenty year old truck. Best thing to do is get the money and keep the truck (you'll get less cash). You might be able to fix it OR find a less than perfect truck and transplant the good parts to it.

I like either Duplicolor or Rustoleum Engine Enamel. Very tough and harder than regular rustoleum paint. On underside parts like axles and tie rods etc. I still like to use gloss black, it cleans off easier. That's about it... then color is a personal choice. The engine enamel comes in lots of colors. Agree on caliper paint or at least Hi temp paint.

I think you may be right. I've had a few gremlins that point to the switch. I have the switch, I just put the dash back together. #@&* if didn't replace it before. :doh: I'll get back when I have the time to install it.

No. I've checked that several times since I got the thing. I just put in the floor insulation and rubber mat and saw nothing.

No, really, this is an issue for me. Can anybody help a bro out??

So I finally got some work done on the MJ and took some pics. You can see some of the "before" pics at the top of this post. Paint: Rustoleum Metallic Racing Green - and Rustoleum Clear Coat. I seriously could not afford a $1500 paint job for my $400 truck, so rattle can it was. I think it looks good, not showroom but fine for what I want. If the paint peels off and I'm still having fun with it I will either say, "screw it, who cares about paint" or I'll get it painted by a shop. ...and put the stock wheels from my XJ on it. I'm working on the flares now and looking for 1 stinkin' flare bracket but the JY will only sell me the whole FENDER. Not pieces. Then I Herculined the bed...I really like that. It even makes the ride seem a tad quieter especially when I have stuff in the back that USED to roll around. I have been looking for 2 door XJ buckets for the seat swap, but I got a great deal (free) on some 4 door XJ seats that actuall match my interior, so I figured I'd install them now and just put in some 2 door seats (or other type) down the road. This pic is just for fitment, right now I have an insulated rubber floor and It works fine, but I still want carpet, so that's next on the list and then I can install the seats permanent like.. ...and I got the seats with rocket sliders so it's pretty tall, but I'm not, and when I adjust the set just right it's super comfy

88 MJ Pioneer, 5 speed, 4.0, 4x4 Are the wipers and the radio on the same circuit?? They both took a dump on me at the same time. The circuit breaker for the wipers tested fine...is there a fuse?? Also the "PART TIME' light is on when it's not in 4x, and goes off when I put it IN 4x. Still a work in progress

Those license lights (on mine anyway) were just a single wire, one for each side of the plate, the ground is in the mount.

Charcoal cannister to remove fumes from fuel tank and send it thru intake to be burned instead of just wafting off into the air. You'll want that. If nothing than just for fumes. You want to keep that Alberta air clean, don't you?? They rarely need to be "serviced". Mine (90, 88) are just basically filled with a steel wool kind of material and of course, some charcoal) the only thing I've ever needed to do to this is change the vac lines, as they will get crumbly and crack. They're attached to the fuel tank via rollover valves and they just pop on/off, no clamps.