ParadiseMJ

Strike plate.

Loosen the door strike plate bolt. Push it in about 1/4" and tighten it. Close the door...repeat and adjust as necessary. I was also able to "bend" the door a bit with the window down and a 2x4 as a lever. I'd leave the hinges alone unlkess they are visibly cracked or otherwise mis-shaped.

Yes.

My 88 did not have a fan, but it does have A/C and the relay as well as the plug and wiring. It was easy to wire it to a switch. I converted the cooling system to a post 91 set-up, open, with a HO raidator. There was no bung for the RENIX switch.

This is the aux. fan temp switch on a RENIX radiator Some HO radiators come with the bung under a plastic plug, most don't. If it has a neck for the cap, it likely doesn't have the switch. The temp. SWITCH runs thru the ECU and then the fan relay (on the DS fenderwell like JeffN said), the temp SENDER in the block for the gauge/light, the Coolant Temp SENSOR in the block under the manifold to ECU for fuel/air mix.

There are a multitude of FRONT receiver hitches for the MJ (because they also fit XJ's). Alot of the MJ's I've seen just use the step bumper with a ball in it. For me that's inadequate for "real" towing. I have yet to find a rear hitch receiver that doesn't involve the bumper. I know that Reese makes a "universal" hitch but I haven't seen one. I had the local RV/hitch shop make a hitch for me...$250. Steep, but solid as a rock.

That's enough reason for me right there...and no, a RENIX with no cat would just be a straight pipe...if you had a muffler or not as there is no downstram O2 sensor. Trail rig or not, you'd still be spewing all that crap. Keep it.

If you're just replacing the crank SEAL, then no. You do have to remove the harmonic balancer, which can be a beech. After that it's really just a pry out/push in to seat job. You might wanna do some other stuff while you have it apart, and then, maybe not.

So, anyhoo, The best way to strip all the paint quickly is a sand or media blaster. The pressure washer might be a good final step before painting. If you're just scruffing it up, just wet sand it and dull the shine/clear coat. The right primer and paint will have the factory paint as a substrate and will hold on better.

You can wire a cargo light/third brake light using one from another vehicle. The wiring for the cargo light in my 88 is in fact behind my Pioneer dash set up, and it's factory labeled. Just a switch and a little wire, you could be all lit up back there. The hardest part for me was actually taking the plunge and drilling and cutting into the roof of my cab. It's custom that looks stock or slightly updated.

I'm pretty sure the shipping would be under $10

great!! Welcome. The emissions light on a 90 MJ is just a timer. It kicks on when the thing reaches a certain mileage. Has nothing to do with an emissions "problem". P/S pump is easy to replace. Sounds good...you'll find more as you go...good luck.

I have a spare, the big bracket that bolts to the underside and the bracket in the pic. I'll send it to you for the price of shipping. If you want it, PM me.

Track bar angle has changed, as well as the control arms and the alignment. Make sure it's not a tire balance issue first, have them balanced. Make sure both ends of your track bar are tight. Track bar torque should be ~80 fp. Also, if you disconnected your control arms installing the spacers, they need to be torqued down with tires on ground, weight on the suspension.

One of the diffeerences with XJ's and MJ's (even short beds) is that 3" on an XJ MIGHT require an SYE, especially on newer(post 97) models. On an MJ 4-5" OR SOA might call for an SYE. Also, I don't know squat about 2WD rigs but the rear should be the same. Swapping trannys and axles would also be a factor. An inch can make a big difference (according to my wife!!) I have a pinion angle chart that I'll look for and post if I can.

Keep the shortbed for wheeling Keep the long bed for the camper and sleeping in. Changing bed/frame lengths isn't as easy as just breaking out the recip saw. Personally (my personal opinion) it would likely end up looking like a hack job. If it's just a trail rig, then maybe, otherwise not so much.

Glad that's resolved.

Here ae just some basic KC ambers...decent price for JUST fog lights. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/new-kc-l ... ccessories I run these on my MJ. Driving lens, clear fog lens, amber fog lens...take your pick. You get all 3 types of lens and all the wiring and the covers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KC-HiLit ... ccessories

I use Pennzoil Syncromesh. Pricey but... I'm not all that ready to put engine oil in there, but I hear that lots of guys are just running regular ol' dino. My BA/10 has 190K on it, workin fine for me so far. No shifting problems, doesn't jump out of gear in any direction, no leaks, regular fluid changes, like every 10K now that it's older. Keeping it clean seems to work. Not a big wheeler, pretty much just highway and dirt trails.

:dunno:

At the parts store they should ask you "Gauges or Lights"?

My cable (88) got yanked out of the little key on the speedo gear in the transfer case when I was working on the gauge cluster. I just grabbed the tip with some needle nosers and carefully worked the square end back into the square hole, didn't have to replace cable or gear.. :clapping:

I'm lucky enough to have a (?) stock step bumper, chrome, just like I want. I have seen alot of black rears at the yard. Don't know if they're after market...the black ones all look the same, mine, not so much...but it does look stock. I didn't have alot of confidence putting a ball on the bumper and towing anything much. I did score a MJ "fitting" hitch that ties into the bumper AND mounts...nothing looks worse than a sagged out, bent step bumper.

If the bulbs are the same cylindrical type, there are indeed LED lights for it. I have some in my cargo lights on the XJ.