ParadiseMJ

I'd check the battery cables again...and all the connections there. If it won't jump there is a problem with the power getting to the ignition. The batt cables can also corrode inside and look perfectly fine on the outside. Those battery terminals and connections gotta be clean, dry, tight. I'm sure power washing it didn't help.

Yep, me too! Good deal, no problems after a year or so. The stock injectors are waaaaaay to expensive to not be using these.

Out here in CA I don't think there is any such thing as legal seats in the back...even if you have a dog back there they have to be leashed, or in a cage...or wearing a parachute and a helmet...or all of the above. Cops can always find something to bust you for.

My 88 has A/C...does it work...not presently.

Well, if I was 15 again...I know, I know, my profile says I'm 21 so Jeep chicks would be intersted in me...I would buy a Comanche, except they wouldn't be available for another 20 years or so. Anyhoo, if you bought an MJ and got yourself into a good auto shop class you could do some good stuff to it... I DO NOT mean jacking it up to the sky, hacking fenders, putting stacks on it and making a cheesy angle iron bumper and painting it urban camo, or "fat chicks can't jump" stickers all over it. More of a restoration. Then you'll have a vehicle you can use. If you can't do that, don't go for an MJ. You'll be broker than you are now.

Nothing there in my 90 XJ Laredo or 88 MJ Pioneer, so doubtful in an 87.

Nice Jim. Oddly enough...nothing goes there. It's alot of space for a cheesy little digital clock. I put a trans temp gauge there. I wondered what was "behind" the space when I started to cut...same thing, nothing. Nothing in the center section, nothing in the bottom section...just nothing.

What about the O2 sensor and EGR tube? Where do those go? Can't find a header for a RENIX.

Shine up the bulb contacts inside the light. If you look really close you'll see the little rollers inside the fixture. Clean those up. Worked for me. I used a dremel brush on low.

I just have regular old 2 door XJ seats...they looked like crap at the JY, but they cleaned up real nice, are very comfortable and tilt forward to boot. A little fabbing on the mounts but they work great...and I have a boney a$$.

In case of nuclear attack or dying super nova, I always say "run towards it". Wait, will my cell reception be affected by any of this. :bowdown:

The rear load sensing proporitong valve is not available new unless there is some NOS out there. You either have to work with it or bypass it altogether if it's broken. There are after market adjustable proportioning valves out there.

Well, the one I pulled from the JY on Friday...I thought it would work...until I got out my tape measure. Yoke to yoke was 9" or 10" shorter. I may be exaggerating on the foot long shaft...my wife says I exaggerate some. Same set up except for the D44. I know my SWB sitting next to my XJ is definitely longer.

I just swapped my BA10 out for an AW4 on the MJ. Drive shaft now 2" too long. I shoved the slip joint ALL the way into the T/C and the shaft is still about 1/4" too long. XJ shafts won't work as they are generally about a foot shorter than MJ shafts. Do I have to have the shaft I have shortened or is there a shaft from another vehicle that I can cannibalize...any good candidates?? There are NO MJ's in our junkyard here The length of the "new" main part of the shaft is fine as long as I can get it on to the end of the slip yoke and still come up with the same dimension. AW4 > 231J > D44

Most shops won't charge it until you (they) fix the reason that it's being depleted (as in leaking).

You mean a mechanical nut or like a peanut? Either way...how?? I imagine RockAuto would ship to El Salvador. AutomobiliaPiedra.com

Yes I pulled one off of a rolled V8 ZJ at the junkers. Fits nicely...gives the steering a tighter feel. Just measure it and bolt it on.

Luke ~~~ use The Force.

I became an Official Grandpa Jeeper today...had the Jeep already...2 even. I was already an Official Jeeper. Up until today didn't have the grandkid. That all changed today...7 lb. boy born 5/23/2012. Can't get cigars for everyone. Just get your own an PM me :yes: We'll smoke em then! :cheers:

Look at the light sockets for corrosion or hardened yellow "bulb grease". Start there.

Another question...sorry. I can find NP 242's everywhere in the JY...yet no post 91 (23 spline) 231's. Pros & cons of a 242. Would a 96 242 be a direct swap? I know they're a bit weaker than the 231 but this is NOT a crawler. More of a utility/fun/out camping truck. I'll never be doing Moab or the Rubicon in this truck. More like trips to Tahoe/snow/etc. Opinions??

So, the flexplate needs to be from an 87-90 (RENIX) or from the same years (HO) as the tranny?? I pulled the BA-10 and T/C yesterday. I'm now on the JY quest. T/C for $85...all cables, plates, shifters & linkage for AW4 tranny AND T/C for $40. I'll have to check the bracket for the TV cable (intact on the tranny) and the electronics.

Well, the slave cylinder etal. finally gave up the ghost on my BA/10 in the MJ. I'm not real keen on dropping the BA/10, replacing the slave assembly and still ending up with a BA/10. I've been preening the AW4 in my shop for this, new hoses, NSS, filter etc etc. and it is as ready as it will be for the swap I've planned all along. So here is what I have: AW4 (94) so no power/comfort switch. I got from a member on another forum locally, swears it was running perfectly when it was removed...he went with an AX15. Torque converter - new TQ converter seal - new Tranny mount - new Flexplate (1988 - new) All wiring and connectors in good shape Shifter, lever, plate, cable (all JY parts) Center console, bezels. Good cross member and good mounting holes (the rear most ones). Motor mounts. TWO GOOD WEEKENDS Here is what I don't have: AW4 TCU ECU for AW4 Also, on the TPS...there are two harness plugs at the throttle body to the manual TPS. One is plugged in to the TPS, one is just sitting there, nothing to plug to. If I still had my XJ for reference this would be much easier, but it's history now. So, the questions are: 1. Will I need a new (used) ECU for the auto? 2. Do I need a new (used) TCU for the auto? 3. Do I need an AW4 TPS? 4. Are there any wiring modifications I need to do? Please steer me clear of any possible FUBAR's so I can be driving this thing in 2 weeks instead of pullingmy hair out (what's left of it) for months. I also know I need a different transfer case...working on that. I have the original 88 NP231J with 21 spline input, and I'd like to keep it since I rebuilt it last summer. If it's feasible to just re-do the input shaft on it or just find a 23 spline TC (hard to find here under $300).

I have the ZJ fans on both my 4.0's. XJ and MJ. I noticed immediatly that the HD clutch moves more air than the stock XJ clutch (which was only about 2 weeks old on the MJ). It also took care of my cooling issues while towing or slow n' go. Some say it's much noiser, but I didn't really notice an "annoying" noise..more like "more power" sound. I am considering changing out the whole mechanical fan system on the MJ (XJ's been passed on to Sonny) but have to really work out all the electrical crap (like a new fuse box) before I do that. Having a constant and dependable source of air flow without extra drag on the engine sounds like a good plan.

I used my MJ bench brackets on 2 door XJ seats...I had to drill out the holes on the seats and reattach them to the XJ seats with machine screws and nuts...very easy, about an hour I had buckets. Warning: don't even try using the buckets with the curved sliders unless you're a midget. They set about 2-3 inches higher which doesn't sound like much but if you're anywhere near 6" tall your head will hit the roof (personal experience). I would not go with the funky aftermarket "racing seats" but that's just my personal preference...I like to be comfy.