ParadiseMJ

Don, I'm pondering removing mine, but it's an 88. However I may do just the very thing you're wanting to do...just take it off and fiddle with it. See what position does what, how much and when, it would be interesting to know definitively. When I (or you) figure it out I may decide to keep it or just go ahead with the delete. :popcorn: It would be interesting to know if a Toyota valve works the same way?? They are still available new. The "book" says the bushing needs to be removed and discarded when making adjustments FYI.

I'm looking at another Jeep... My wife says... The seller says he "thinks" the rear ring gear is broken. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but would that not render the thing undriveable? He says he hasn't popped open the pumpkin to look at it but insists it needs replacing. He drives it, but says it pops and grinds. I'm thinking he's driving it in 4hi with a 231. Otherwise it's in good shape, 91 XJ with 4.0, AW4, D35/30 4.10's 120K miles, wants $1200. What are the symptoms of a broken ring gear??

I have never been to Lowe's for anything but plants and a vacuum cleaner. :???: My local ACE hardware has just about every bolt, screw, body panel fasteners or o-rings you could ever need. Once in awhile they don't have a specific item but very few and far between. I've replaced just about every removed bolt with SS bolts (except Jeep specific suspension,engine/drive line bolts), all found at ACE. They even have a big thread finder board ...male & female so there is no guessing. Seems to me Lowe's or even Home Depot are lousy places to get bolts...since they're all in plactic bags. If I can't find it at ACE, I go to NAPA or Fastenal etc. Not a place that sells carpet and washing machines.

You need a new frying pan!!

I've done alot of brake bleeding, speed bleed, gravity bleed, power bleed, regular bleed. Never heard of doing it when the engine running. But I've never seen a Unicorn either.

Will do. I was wondering that...if I went back to the connection. I'm pretty sure I have all the grounds from the TCU pinned out and secured...but maybe not. Check in the morning. On the up side I took a drive today on the highway...about 40 miles round trip. Jeep drove nicely. No tranny issues.

I followed the procedure in both the manual (book) and the one Cruiser54 posted. I just don't get ANY voltage, as in no reading from the A or B to D when backprobing the sensor. Like I said it drives and shifts fine (except for that little hesitation on acceleration), and that it just feels like it's working too hard to get to speed (which I also attribute to the 3.07 gearing [soon to be remedied]).

After my AW4 tranny swap I've driven the MJ about 500 miles, here and there, around town, out in the woods and on the road...but...I have not yet gotten it out on the highway because I'm leery about this issue. When I start it, it starts and idles fine, the idle however is a bit low, like between 400-600 RPM. When I step on the gas, it hesitates just a tad and then revs like normal. When I take off from a cold start it hesitates a bit and then goes (hesitates up to 900-1000 rpm). When I'm driving along it shifts and runs fine. I've adjusted the TV cable (twice) but when I've tried to adjust the TPS I can't get any reading (as in blank on the digital VMM). I get a small ohm reading from the flat plug, .5, per Cruiser54's instructions. But blank screen in the square connector. I've used paper clips into the sensor and straight pins into the wire. The same procedure on the XJ give me a perfect reading. What am I missing!? Is my TPS shot or do I have a voltage delivery problem??

Yeah, especially for old geezers like me!!

...and?

I'm having a similar issue, except at the lower end of RPMs' Cruiser54, Can you post up your TPS tech

That's a little tight, but if your motor/tranny mounts are in good shape it shouldn't be an issue.

:yes: I never had me no HO! Sayin'

Of the 4 (badly decomposed) MJ's I've seen in the 2 yards here over the last year, 3 of them were column shifts, the 4th was a 5 speed floor shift. I've gotten all my parts except the taillights and tire holder from XJ's.

I have lived in this area for 25+ years. There is a Cherokee in every parking lot, you can't throw a baseball in any direction without hitting an XJ. There are, on the other hand, about 8 MJ's in the entire county and half of them are grandma's 2 wheel drive. I, personally, am superior because I own an MJ and they DON't...HaaaHaaa

Welcome to the forum. Whip out your camera and send in some pictures...I'd like to see the camper set-up.

I would think it was mounted inside the cab to avoid heat, moisture, vibration. I put mine in the stock location when I did the swap...getting the wiring in there was kind of a pain...but it got done. Why would you not want it in the cab??

...and a tranny cooler...you'll want a bigger one than the "stock" one, that is if you have a stock one.

What's the deal with avatars? I didn't delete my avatar, but it's gone, and I can't find the user CP

Theres' been no glue on any of my gutter trim. I just pinched them with my fingers and was able to roll them right off the entire length of my XJ. The MJ is much easier...there are only three clips. You have to get the clips on the metal just right...it helped me to open up the clips just a tad with a screwdriver.

I put foil lined buble type insulation in there...doesn't seem you'd have to, I just did it for heat/cold. I didn't even think about it for noise. I did the same with my XJ. I wouldn't say either Jeep is "quiet". I was surprised the wasn't already some sort of noise/temperature dampening up there from the factory.

Great info guys, thank you. I'm going to the yard on Friday...I will spend most of the time on my knees under Jeeps and Fords just getting the lay of the land...lots of XJ's and best yet, alot of those are 87-90's and lots of Exploders. Why do I get myself into this... :dunno: :wrench: :cheers: ...what the hell else would I do? Go fishing?

Lemme see... if I had a rod knock...I'd... CRAP MY PANTS

Blow out the line with some carb cleaner and compressed air...make sure you have the little plastic "metered orofice" on the engine end of the vac line. You can also modify the inside of the valve cover if it continues to be a problem.

Did you possibly re-UN-introduce vacuum somewhere. Sorry to harp on checking vac lines, but it sounds to me like the SOURCE line is off, between the manifold and the cannister causing the high idle. It sounds like the engine is sucking straight air somewhere. Like you say, it's the only thing you touched. The cooling system change would not cause a glitch like this (or maybe the line is off the heater valve, or the vac reservoir and not capped off) IMHO.